Appalachian Trail Day 148 - Captain Stash's House to Hanover, New Hampshire

I wake up at 5:30 feeling like I had a awesome night's sleep, but not really ready to charge out and seize the day. I did not get up at all last night to water the leaves, but I'm fit to bursting right now so I throw on my shoes and run towards the privy in the back of the yard.

Carrot cake is awake and brewing coffee in the vestibule of his tent. I say a quick good morning as I run to the privy.

We chat as we pack up. Carrot cake is a really nice guy. He is on the Warrior Expedition and knows Unicorn and Greg that I met in Pennsylvania. After his service to our country he served as a camp counselor for adolescents. He would take 11 to 15 year old kids out on backpacking trips ranging from a few days to up to 45 days  I think him for his service to our country, but tell him that I think that managing a camp of kids on overnight trips sounds like a harder job, and he laughingly agrees.

We talk about how there are many different approaches to hiking the trail. Some people are out here treating their hike like a job, mile-focused and militant about hiking. Others, himself included, don't feel like they've had a fulfilling day unless they are exhausted when they get into camp at night.  My perception is that I just don't want to feel like I'm suffering. If I did this 15 or 20 years ago my attitude could be very different. I do like the feeling of a job well done and being tired at the end of the day, but it doesn't take as much to get me exhausted! I just want to have fun and enjoy the experience,  while still getting some forward progress!

I'm on the trail at 6:45. The trail follows the road through town, and just after leaving the Captain's house I see a sign next to the river that marks the height of the water Inundation during Hurricane Irene. It is well over my head where I stand now, and forced the town's only general store to close.

The trail then turns right on another road and I walk uphill and under the overpasses for I-89 before entering the woods at Podunk Road, where I start uphill for the big climb of the day.

The morning Is very gray and dark, and I forgot to check the weather forecast before I left, so I stop and take my phone off airplane mode. There is a a lot of rain almost right on top of this area.  Oh well, I had so many clear days recently that if it's going to rain I'm glad it's happening on a day that I'm going into town. At least my stuff won't get drenched and I won't have to pack up wet gear tomorrow!

I am so thirsty this morning even with all the water I drank yesterday.  I even drank a liter last night right before bed. I stop at a stream to filter some water.  I drink a half-liter, and filter another half liter In addition to what's in my pack. I think I'm going to need it today. At least my pack doesn't weigh so much now that I've eaten almost three days of food

While I'm filtering water Carrot Cake rolls by. I know I won't see him again so I wish him a happy hike and tell him that I'm just going to roll up my own pace and keep enjoying the trail. He wishes me a good journey as he barrels up the hill.

For the next several miles the trail continues uphill through a mixed hardwood forest of mostly mature trees which is always a delight because the underbrush is usually mimimal and the trail is easy to navigate.

Five miles into my hike, and less than two and a half hours, I reach a sign showing the Connecticut River (and state line) is only five miles away. I check the elevation gain on my watch and I've already done almost 2 000 feet! I'm making really great time this morning and I should be to Hanover by noon.

Just about this time, sprinkles start falling but it's not enough for me to pull out my umbrella. It's kind of hot and humid and I'm comfortable enough with the spattering of raindrops for the next two hours.

I start descending and emerge onto Elm Street. The trail follows the road for the next mile to Norwich, Vermont, the last town in Vermont that I will walk through before leaving the state. The houses are huge and gorgeous. I often think when I walk through neighborhoods that the homeowners must be thrilled with having so much dirty hiker trash walking through on a daily basis. 

During the walk down Elm Street, the rain starts falling in earnest,  and I am forced to take out my umbrella for the remainder of the hike.

Elm Street ends at Main Street and I follow the blazes to the right toward Hanover.  There are several Intersections where the trail crosses on and off ramps for Route 5 and Interstate 91, so I have to take my time at these spots to watch for turning cars.

One mile of walking down Main Street, and by noon as expected, I am over the Connecticut River and cross the state line. I call home and I'm literally crying. This state has been so challenging both mentally and physically. I think my tears are mostly cathartic, but I am relieved nonetheless. 

From here I could walk directly to my car, but I decide to continue through the town of Hanover on the trail and then cut back to my car so I don't have to do the extra mile tomorrow, after all it's still relatively early.  The streets of downtown Hanover are filled with cars and the sidewalks are thick with pedestrians.  This is the home of Dartmouth College, and orientation has started, with students wheeling their luggage around while looking at maps. 

When I get to my truck I still have two and a half hours before I can check into the hostel that I booked for the night. I'm running low on freeze-dried dinners and really don't want to do ramen bombs (a mixture of instant mashed potatoes and ramen noodles) that are a backpacking staple. They don't provide very good nutrition other than fat and simple carbs, so I Google search for an REI. There are none nearby but there is a Sierra only six miles away. I head that direction, as Croft was raving about how good the prices are on their freeze-dried meals.

The prices are so good in fact that I spend almost $300 on enough meals that should last me most of the rest of my journey. I also pick up a stuff sack for my clothes, as my Dyneema stuff sack is literally falling apart. 

With my resupply chores accomplished, I Google "Buffet near me."  I am getting crazed with  hunger, and I would love a variety of food. There's a Chinese buffet only four miles away, and I hit it.  I eat two huge plates of food, with lots of chicken and vegetables, and some egg rolls and crab rangoons thrown in for good measure, along with a big bowl of egg drop soup.

I'm so stuffed that I need a nap, but I still have to get to the hostel; it's an hour's drive away and I find it easily enough with the help of Google Maps. Once I arrive I find that they only offer laundry services with a hiker package that is an additional 30 dollars. At least the shower is included, so I clean up and then drive to town where I can do laundry and get some fresh fruit and vegetables. I also pick up a pizza, some jalapeño poppers and a Healthy Choice chicken marsala just because I love the flavor.

By the time I return to the hostel it's six o'clock and I am exhausted but getting hungry again so I pop the "Carnivore" frozen pizza in the oven and eat the whole thing within minutes. 1,100 calories in the bag!  I save the jalapeño poppers and chicken marsala for breakfast tomorrow. Another thousand calories, and just a few things that I've been craving!

There is a man staying here who has the look of a hiker. I ask him if he's on trail and he says he is and his name is Boomer. He is enthusiastic and really. We chat for a few minutes and he talks about needing some more food. I tell him that I have plenty and I am happy to resupply him with whatever he needs. He says he thinks he's okay until the next town, but he will let me know before he leaves tomorrow. 

I retire to my bunk. I am really fortunate in that I am the only person in this bunk room tonight so I have the place to myself! 

I sit in bed and update my blog for a little while before going to sleep at 9:30.

Today's Stats: 9.7 miles, 1,955 feet gain

Trail Stats: 1,756 miles, 344K feet gain

Appalachian Trail Day 147 - Stealth Campsite to Captain Stash's House (Mile 1,735 to Mile 1,746)

I wake feeling lazy, like I could lay here in my hammock all day. I'm definitely feeling the need for rest, and a little maudlin. I was awake a lot last night, probably the result of that caffeine so late in the day yesterday. 

I start to get up at 5:10, but get totally dive bombed by mosquitoes, and immediately lay back down and zip up my bug net and pull out my phone to look at FarOut and come up with a game plan. 

I'm definitely not feeling up to hiking 20 miles today to Hanover. As a matter of fact, I don't even want to put on my disgustingly wet and stinky clothes. I want to curl up on the sofa in my fuzzy bathrobe and drink a cup of hot tea and take a luxurious bubble bath. That's the kind of day I want. 

But, I'm stuck out here in the middle of nowhere and this is not the place to take a zero day. There isn't a view, and I have no cell service. I have enough food to get me through tomorrow when I return to town, so I'm under no pressure to hike very far today.

As far as sleeping spots tonight, my options are limited for the next 20 miles. There are three shelters between here and Hanover, and none of them sound appealing to stay the night, as they're either very far off trail or have no reliable water nearby.  The best option is Thistle Hill, and that's only six miles away.

The trail passes through the town of West Hartford In 10 miles, And while the general store closed after Hurricane Irene in 2011, there are a couple of Trail Angels who offer free camping, water,  and electricity to hikers.  

My grumbling stomach finally motivates me to get my butt out of the hammock at 6:30. It's a little chilly so my first order of business is to pull on some leggings and my fleece shirt before setting to work and packing up my camp.  When I pull on my hiking clothes, I smell the reak of ammonia. This means that I'm either really dehydrated or I'm burning a lot of protein. It's probably why I feel so crappy today.

The hike up and over the first ridge is 600 foot of gain over one mile. I am dragging this morning and when I see that I have service I call home. I am having a pity party and my husband gratefully indulges my complaining. Feeling better for venting, I head down the hill where I receive a text message from him a short time later. He says that he is proud of me and that I have this, and it makes me feel so much better knowing that I have his support.

At the bottom of the next hill I unload my pack so that I can fill up my water bladder for this next section. Water is difficult to come by for the next 9 miles and 2,000 feet of climbing. 

Heavily laden with an extra 6 pounds of water, I decide to break my hike up into short and manageable sections. I have a 600 ft climb up to a view, where I plan on taking a little break. I take the hill slow and steady without stopping and at the top I am rewarded by a nice but hazy view where a log bench is perched on the side of a small meadow filled with wildflowers.  

I see the cell service is good, so I take off my pack and spend the time updating my blog posts. This rest stop is just what I needed to help reset my attitude. While enjoying the beautiful weather and uploading two days of posts, a thru hiker comes huffing up the trail. He is dripping with sweat and breathing hard and I'm glad to see I'm not the only one out here looking like a sponge that was just soaked in water. We chat for 10 minutes, talking about the upcoming challenges of New Hampshire.  His name is Carrot Cake, and he is planning on 10 to 12 mile days, which makes me feel better.

Soon I find that all I need to make me feel better is to continue hiking, as the trail meanders on a forest road covered in spruce needles, the spruce trees are towering overhead, creating a park-like atmosphere . 

The walk through the park is short-lived, and I crest a small hill a short time later. I reach an open meadow that is absolutely covered in raspberries. I stop and eat handsful of the small but delicious fruit, not minding the bumblebees that fly around everywhere.

For the next mile the trail is flat and slightly downhill and I cross a road where I stop for a picnic lunch on the edge of a meadow before ascending once again.

The next three miles are spent on undulating hills through a beautiful old growth hardwood forest. The trees are towering overhead, filtering dappled sunlight onto the trail. The forest floor is covered in ferns,  violets, jewel weed, sweet Sicily, and the occasional stinging nettle. 

When I reach the side trail to Thistle Hill Shelter, I start to turn on it. There is supposed to be a stream with a lovely little waterfall a way behind the shelter, but after a few steps I realize I will never get to camp at the rate that I'm going if I keep stopping like this, so I turn around and return to the AT.

Shortly after the Thistle Hill trail is a small but clear stream and I stop to grab a liter of water. I am exceptionally thirsty today, probably owing to the cheese and salami I ate for lunch.

The remainder of the day Is spent walking through mature woods and through ridiculously overgrown fields of raspberry and wild flowers. In places I can't see where the trail, and I emerge covered in scratches all over my arms and legs, which really itch from the constant barrage.

After more than 2,000 feet of descent, the trail follows a road into West Hartford, Vermont.  There are no hostels here, but there are two people who are trail famous for allowing people to camp in their yards. 

Just a short walk on the bridge over the White River I come to a house with a sign out front. This is the house of Captain Stash and his wife, Scooter. 

I walk towards the back of the house and see Carrot Cake, the young man I talked to earlier on the trail. The Captain comes out and he is so welcoming and wonderfully nice. He says I don't need to hike anymore and I should just stay here for the night, and I don't need any more encouragement than that. I admire their beautiful garden, and he offers me some fresh green beans, which I am more than grateful to accept. 

Scooter gives me a fresh towel and tells me there is soap in the gazebo where I can charge my electronics. I set up my hammock between two big apple trees, shedding apples all over the ground. I take off my shoes and socks not caring that I'm walking on squishy apples. I munch on the green beans and then take a bath in the cool stream beside a waterfall. 

While I am eating dinner Scooter comes out and sits and chats with me. They used to spend time in the Chesapeake Bay close to where I live, and she is familiar with many of the places near my home.

I am filled with peace and joy. So many of my best experiences on the trail have nothing to do with the scenery or the hike itself, but with the people that I meet and the connections that I make. The overwhelming kindness of others nourishes my soul.

I tuck into my hammock after saying goodnight to Carrot Cake, and I am out like a light by 8:30.

Today's Stats: 10 miles, 2,582 feet gain

Trail Stats: 1,746 miles, 342K feet gain

Appalachian Trail Day 146 - Stony Brook Shelter to Stealth Campsite (Mile 1,719 to Mile 1,735)

I slept really well last night and I feel so much better than yesterday, but I still feel a little slow this morning.

The woman in the tent near me Is already up and moving so I know I can get up and start packing without disturbing anyone. I finish packing and change into my nasty sweat-damp clothes from yesterday, and I'm on the trail at 6:20.

As I leave camp I cross the stream and the woman from camp is there washing up. She is a Kiwi who is hiking to Maine for two months. We just say good morning and talk briefly but don't exchange names.

I've only walked a quarter mile when the trail becomes a ladder. The drop is so steep right here that thankfully the trail crew decided a ladder is the safest choice for this descent. I toss my poles down and climb down without incident. As I'm doing this the woman comes up behind me and I tell her that she picked the hardest part of the trail for her adventure. She actually breathes the sigh of relief and says "Oh good! I was worried yesterday about how hard it is!"

The trail descends further to a forest road with a nice full stream and a bridge to cross over. Immediately after, the trail ascends steeply for 500 feet before leveling off in a nice mixed woods forest where the hard words predominate. 

On the side of the trail is the largest pile of moose scat I have seen thus far so I need to be on the lookout for a big moose. I've seen moose scat on the trail, but it was rather small. I'm more afraid of getting attacked by a moose than a bear. I've been hearing stories of people getting charged by moose on the trail.

Over the last five miles I've gained 1,700 feet in elevation, and I'm already getting low on water so I stop to filter water at a stream, since the next reliable water is 9 miles away.  While I am filtering a young woman walks up. She was the one in the shelter last night, and she introduces herself as Fallout. She is originally from Maryland. We chat for a while before we head up the trail to gain another 700 feet, but now I'm loaded with three liters of water.

By 11 o'clock I have hiked about seven and a half miles, and gained close to 3,000 feet.  I pass by a side trail that leads to The Lookout, a privately owned cabin where the owners graciously allow hikers to stay for the night. It's supposed to have a gorgeous view of the valley to the west, and I consider stopping, but the sky is darkening and there is an 80 chance of rain and thunderstorms this afternoon, so I bypass the side trail and instead start the descent towards Woodstock.

The trail goes by a turn off for the Mauri Wintturi Shelter. I take a quick look at the weather and see a storm is moving in fast. Radar makes it look like it could go around me but then again who knows? 

I decide to veer towards the shelter at the last minute. It's definitely too early to stop for the day, but I have enough food that if bad weather hits, I could stay here. At the very least I can take an hours break and then reevaluate the weather situation.  The shelter has a brand new privy that is gorgeous by trail standards, which isn't saying much.

It rains for a few minutes and then the sun comes out. I pull out my bear canister and munch on some cheese and salami while I write this, enjoying the decadence of a prolonged break. If I had to camp out here for the night I would be more than happy. The only problem is the water is quite a way down the hill behind the shelter; the seasonal stream beside the shelter is dry as a bone.

I am motivated to leave when the rain looks like it went completely around this area.  I realize that it's 2:30 and if I want to make it to the Farm Stand for some fresh food I need to hustle in order to be there by 5:00 when it closes.

I am literally running in a couple spots down the hill to try to make it to the farm stand before it closes. I end up getting there at 4:30, I And thrilled that I came here! I buy a peach, mini sweet peppers, and cherry tomatoes, all of which are some of my favorite foods. I also Indulge in a Mocha Java monster, which given the late hour I may regret later, but I think the infusion of caffeine is going to seriously help me for the next three miles and 1,000 feet of gain I still have to do. I already hiked over three thousand feet today, and I am getting tired!

Two miles later I can attest that caffeine, sugar, and vitamin C are definitely the secret sauce to getting through my day. I pretty much suffer up the climb, but when a couple of young pups pass me they are huffing and puffing and groaning, so I know I'm not the only one out here suffering and it does make me feel better.

Once I get over the mountain, however, I am literally bouncing down the trail. I'm also jamming out to music which really helps. I think I'm going to have to start sucking down more caffeine in the afternoons. I know it's helped me before but I always try to limit my intake. I think this might be the only way I can survive the increasingly difficult mountains, especially in New Hampshire and Maine.

So far the rain hasn't materialized but I don't want to tempt the Rain Gods By thinking that I cheated the forecast. There have definitely been some dark clouds overhead, and some sprinkles, but nothing appreciable so far today, and for that I am so thankful.

I hike the two-and-half miles to the stream where I plan to stay tonight. I go across, but have a difficult time finding the campsite. I go back and read the FarOut comments and realize the campsite is before the stream and up a hill. 

By seven thirty I have set up my camp, eaten dinner, and changed into my sleeping clothes.  This is the earliest that I have been set up and ready for bed in a while. Now I only hope that the caffeine doesn't keep me awake.

Good night!

Today's Stats: 16.2 miles (plus one bonus mile), 4,000 feet gain

Trail Stats: 1,735 miles, 339K feet gain

Appalachian Trail day 145 - Vermont Route 4 to Stony Brook Shelter (Mile 1,709 to Mile 1,719)

I wake up At 5:45 unable to sleep any longer even though I am not rested whatsoever after yesterday's arduous hike.  My body is stiff and my feet cry when I stand up to get out of bed. At least I'm not sore. I stretch and rub some Voltaren on the bottom of my feet and prop them up on a pillow to dry while I try to come up with a plan.

I absolutely make doing laundry my first order of business. Then I can return to the hotel, affording me a couple hours to organize and pack before leaving to meet the shuttle driver in Hanover, New Hampshire.

I grab my dirty clothes and some laundry soap out of the truck and drive across the street to the laundromat under the bar, called the Scrub-a-Dub Pub, but it's locked.  All right; on to plan B. I guess I will have to drive to Rutland 20 minutes away to do laundry.

The first thing I do when I get to Rutland is to throw my clothes in the washer. The laundromat is fully automated, and I first have to purchase a special card that can be loaded to operate the machines. The kiosk refuses to take my credit cards so I am forced to use cash, but the smallest I have is a twenty dollar bill. This is going to be one very expensive load of laundry.

With the washer started, I need breakfast and hit a local Dunkin Donuts, then run over to the grocery store. When I return to the laundromat,  I dry my clothes and return to the hotel, much later than I planned.

I pack methodically for the next hour, making sure to refill my sanitizer and toilet paper. I'm on the road 5 minutes later than I hoped for the hour drive to Hanover, NH.

I park in the Dartmouth College parking lot, where they allow hiker parking. I already called the parking office to register my vehicle. 

Eleven comes and goes, with no sign of my shuttle. I call but there is no answer, so I text him. Fifteen minutes later I receive a response. He was uncertain if I wanted the shuttle, based on my response to his text last night. I refrain from saying anything snarky, but just respond that I had said "Okay," and he says he will be on his way shortly.

He ends up arriving close to noon.  I spend the time trying to line up a different shuttle for the next section,  but I may have to use this guy again, so I try to get my attitude adjusted before he arrives. I'm already seething over the exorbitant price he is charging, totally a First World problem, I know. At least he apologizes for not confirming with me earlier.

We arrive at the trailhead and he doesn't have service to run my credit card, so we have to drive back up the hill to complete the transaction. 

I shoulder my pack and I'm on the trail at 1:30 PM. I don't make it 20 feet before a hiker comes up the trail towards me. I realize it's EZ.  We stop and chat a few minutes. His wife is picking him up here,  and they are staying in town tonight before she joins him for this next section to Hanover. He asks me for the shuttle info, and I give it to him,  but warn him it's ridiculously expensive. We say goodbye and I continue on the trail. 

As soon as I get on the trail I have to go uphill for 600 feet. It's not a lot of elevation at one time, but it is hot! I am winded because I am still tired from the last 3 days of hiking, so I have to stop a couple of times to let my heart rate recover.

The trail then drops 1,400 feet to Gifford State Park. The park offers hikers reduced rates on camping, and a hiker can get a hot shower for 50 cents. People are already starting to pile into the park in RVs for their extended weekend fun.

The trail meanders briefly through the park and crosses Vermont Route 100, where cars whiz by. After crossing the road I walk across the bridge over Kent Brook which features a small waterfall. The brook feeds Kent Pond, which is one of the largest I have seen on the trail.

The trail is delightfully level for the next two miles until I arrive at Thundering Falls, the highest waterfall on the AT in Vermont. The water cascades down a steep hill to the creek below.

Leaving the waterfall, the trail goes uphill for what seems forever. During the long, hot climb, I gain over 1,700 feet in elevation. I am sucking down water so fast that I have to conserve what I have left, as there is not another water source until the next shelter, five miles away.

During my hike I encounter several large birds that make a crazy racket when they see me and take off into the trees. One is a turkey, and they are so close to the trail that I jump, scared out of my gourd.

The trail has no rewarding views at the top, save for a power line. I can see a sliver of mountains through the gap in the trees, but it's really hazy.

A short time later I make it to Stony Brook Shelter, which is thankfully just off the trail. I started so late that it's getting dark when I arrive. A man and woman are in the shelter talking, and I say hello as I walk by. There is space for my hammock just pass the shelter, near a woman who is set up in a tent. 

I love it when I'm not the only one in the shelter areas, because it can be a little creepy when you don't know who's going to come in late. Thankfully most of the shelters are away from roads, so most of the hikers are long distance and not here to party.

I get set up and then walk back to the AT together water at a stream. I take my rag with me so I can wash some of the grime off. I do this every night before bed because I don't want to get a bunch of dirt in my hammock and on my down quilt. Plus, it just feels gross to go to bed covered in grime. It's bad enough when I have to put my wet and smelly clothes back on in the morning.

By 8:30 I think I'm the only one left awake. I climb in my hammock and I'm out almost immediately.

Today's Stats: 10 miles, 2,487 feet gain

Trail Stats: 1,719 miles, 335K feet gain

Appalachian Trail day 144 Clarendon shelter to Vermont Route 4 (Mile 1,692 to Mile 1,709)

I wake up closer to my usual time at 5:30 AM. No one else is stirring anywhere around the shelter area, and I don't want to disturb anyone, and I'm a little behind on my blog posts anyway, so I chill in my hammock for an hour. I also really want to see Croft before I leave.

I finally decide I need to get up and get moving, and fortunately there is now some movement from the other campers, so I start breaking down my camp. A short time later Croft walks over and we talk for a few minutes. I tell her I will come over to the shelter so we can chat before I leave.

I pack up and check out the elevation profile today, and try to come up with a plan. This whole week my goal was to get up to Killington Summit and stealth camp up at the top and catch a sunset tonight and the sunrise tomorrow morning, and then nero in town tomorrow. I could really use a resupply; my stomach's been a little err, upset, and I have gone through all of my toilet paper and most of my hand sanitizer in the last two days. Plus the thought of a shower and fresh laundry is really appealing.

If I do a short day tomorrow I won't have the time to clean up and get back on the trail to do very many miles, but if I go into town today I can clean up tonight and hopefully get a ride back early enough tomorrow to get some more miles. 

There aren't many shuttle options on the app or online, but I send some texts, hoping I hear back from someone. My other option is to start calling hotels In the Killington area to see if anyone would have a current list of shuttle drivers. I'd like to shuttle my car to Hanover, New Hampshire tomorrow morning and get a return shuttle back to Killington to continue hiking. In the afternoon. 

I get packed up and go to the shelter where Croft is sitting with her son. We exchange phone numbers and get a picture together. I can't wait to text Kelly and Gigi that I saw her! I say goodbye and head up the trail at 8 AM, a very late start for all the miles to get to town. 

The trail leaving the shelter goes sharply uphill 600 feet or so, and I get warmed up really quickly; even though it's not really cold this morning there's a little chill in the air. On the way up I find some raspberries!

I cross Kieffer Road and travel through a gorgeous hemlock woods, and a short time later Cold River Road. There is a farm stand called Stone's Throw down the road to the left that is highly recommended. I was originally planning on stopping here, as they are supposed to have excellent Vermont made cheese and fresh bread, but I have plenty of food and I still have a lot of climbing to do so I continue on the trail.

The trail starts ascending through a mixed forest and crosses several water sources. I won't have to worry about water until I am further up the trail. I nibble the tender leaves of the plentiful large wood sorrel, enjoying the refreshing tart flavor of the clover-looking leaves.

Another two miles and I see kiosk with a registration journal inside. I sign the register with my trail name and look over to the side to see that I am exactly 500 miles from Katahdin! So far I have climbed 1,000 feet spread over four miles. The trail has been quite easy and I'm really enjoying this gorgeous weather.

The sun is shining and a light breeze is blowing with temperatures In the low 70s. I cross over Sergent Brook and I am blown away by the beauty of all the wildflowers next to the forest road. Common milkweed and tall Queen Anne's lace (Daucus carota), mixed with black-eyed Susans offer a riot of color, and bumblebees and dragonflies and are busily flying around and alighting on the flowers, attending to their pollination duties. 

A short way up the hill from the creek I come across a 500 mile marker for the southbounders. Rocks around the mile marker are really cool; etched with the abbreviations for each state on the Appalachian Trail.

A few minutes later the trail crosses a gorgeous big stream in front of the Governor Clement Shelter.  This will be the last water for the next five miles and 2,000 feet of gain, so I stop to filter a couple of liters so I can drink my electrolytes.

I sign the shelter log book and continue up the mountain, where I will hit the 1,700 mile mark in less than two miles. I lose myself in music as I hike when I stop, realizing I should be setting a mile marker. I check the app,  and see that I am a just over the mark,  but haven't seen anything on the ground. 

I take off my pack and get to work making one. I prefer rocks, but there aren't a lot of small ones on this stretch of trail, and I don't want to take the time to gather them,  so sticks it is!

On the way up,  I keep thinking about continuing my momentum instead of camping on Killington. I decide I definitely want to book a hotel for tonight and arrange a shuttle for tomorrow. I turn my phone off airplane mode and breathe a sigh of relief that I have service. I'm not in the best place to stop as the trail is perched on the side of the mountain. The trail here is very narrow and pitches dangerously on the edge of a drop off. I find a rock to lean against on the upside of the trail.

. 

I have yet to receive a reply to my earlier text to a shuttle service, so I call another listed in FarOut.  He tells me that he prefers to stay in the Rutland area but gives me the number of another driver out of Hanover, New Hampshire.

I called a number provided and the man who answers says that he can do the shuttle and gives me a rough estimate of three dollars per mile, which is the most I've ever heard a shuttle going for, but at this point I'm kind of desperate, given the lack of drivers in this area. He says he will send me a text with the quote. 

With the shuttle taken care of, I look at my hotel app and see a very highly rated hotel near Killington for only $130. I book the room, and I am now on a mission to get hiking so I can get to town, but first I still have to hike eight more miles!

The woods up to Killington are out of a fairy tale. Dense and dark with spruce and fir, the ground covered in moss and wood sorrel.  The trail near the summit is some of the muddiest I have yet to encounter in Vermont, and the reason the nickname for the state is Vermud.

After another 1,000 feet of climbing, I finally reach Cooper Lodge, the shelter near the summit of Killington, and I drop my pack to take a blue-blazed side trail to the summit. I put my phone and InReach device in my waist pack and take my poles for the steep hike up. 

I didn't climb up Killington Peak the last time I hiked here, as I was already wiped out from the climb up by the time I arrived.  Becky did the climb while I waited,  and she had a bad knee at the time, so I know I should be able to do it now that I'm unnarguably in the best shape of my adult life after doing 900 miles continuously on the AT.

The quarter-mile climb up is insanely steep, and I don't want to think about how scary it will be to go back down, but I make the arduous climb in less than 20 minutes.  

The view on top of the mountain is breathtaking, with 360-degree views. The weather is perfect today for this,  and I turn on my PeakFinder app to identify the distant mountains. I am delighted to have an almost 200 mile view, although the farthest mountains are a little hard to distinguish in the haze.

To the south, Stratton Mountain is visible. I can't believe I hiked this far in only a few days! 

To the west, PeakFinder shows me the location of Whiteface Mountain and Mount Marcy, which are over 1,000 feet higher than I am now.

To the east I can see Mount Washington,  the second highest peak on the trail but unnarguably one of the most dangerous.  I will be hiking toward the mountain, covering 150 miles from here and hope to summit it within the next two weeks.

I spend about 15 minutes on top of the peak before I turn around and start down the steep descent. The descent is actually easier than I thought and I only have to throw down my poles a couple times to boot scoot down some of the steeper boulders.

At the bottom I shoulder my pack and peek in Cooper Lodge before I begin the almost 7 mile hike to Route 4.  Cooper Lodge was disgusting when I last visited about 12 years ago, and it has certainly declined since then. 

A couple who stayed at Clarendon Shelter last night, and with whom I have played hopscotch up the mountain, was thinking of staying here, but the gentleman remarks that it looks like a Hantavirus hotel, and they elect to continue another 4 miles to the next shelter.

I filter a liter of water from a nearby pipe spring and begin the next leg of my journey. I am energized by completing what I thought was the hardest part of my day, but the trail definitely has some challenging sections ahead.

The trail ends up being crazy hard, winding around trees, roots, and rocks for miles and miles. Spruce trees are down on the sides of the trails, and they branches stick out into the narrow trail, ready to impale the unsuspecting hiker. I do my best to avoid the sharp sticks, but I am focused so intently on where I am stepping that I inadvertently get scratched several times, on occasion drawing blood.

I could have passed 20 bears and 20 moose and I would have no idea that I did so,  I was that focused on my footing. I'm tired and stumbling a little and my feet hurt so I'm trying to avoid an injury.

The hike down seems to take an eternity.  By the time I reach the Route Four trailhead and my vehicle, I have been hiking for almost 12 hours. I spread a towel out on my seat because I am a disgusting mess, sweaty and covered in dirt. Thankfully the drive to the hotel that I booked is only 10 minutes away.

The owners of the Inn are an adorable couple who unload their bikes from a weekly local trail ride as I arrive. Casey is very helpful, giving me a bucket of ice and informs me that the laundromat is across the street under a bar. 

By 8:00 PM I am showered and call to order takeout from the Jax Pub. I am to beat to consider doing laundry tonight, but I look inside the laundromat to see that it opens at 6:00 a.m. so I plan to do laundry tomorrow.

I see that I received a text message from the shuttle driver. He informs me that the shuttle will cost $150. I blanch at the amount, indignant at the highway robbery. But I am between a rock and a hard place so I respond "Wow! Okay." 

I return to my room and sit in bed eating chicken wings and part of the salad, but I am too exhausted to enjoy anything. By the time I get done eating and turn off the light it's almost 10:00 p.m.. I am so ready to finish this day!

Good night!

Todays Stats: 16.7 miles, 4,100 feet gain

Trail Stats: 1,709 miles, 333K feet gain