I start to get up at 5:10, but get totally dive bombed by mosquitoes, and immediately lay back down and zip up my bug net and pull out my phone to look at FarOut and come up with a game plan.
I'm definitely not feeling up to hiking 20 miles today to Hanover. As a matter of fact, I don't even want to put on my disgustingly wet and stinky clothes. I want to curl up on the sofa in my fuzzy bathrobe and drink a cup of hot tea and take a luxurious bubble bath. That's the kind of day I want.
But, I'm stuck out here in the middle of nowhere and this is not the place to take a zero day. There isn't a view, and I have no cell service. I have enough food to get me through tomorrow when I return to town, so I'm under no pressure to hike very far today.
As far as sleeping spots tonight, my options are limited for the next 20 miles. There are three shelters between here and Hanover, and none of them sound appealing to stay the night, as they're either very far off trail or have no reliable water nearby. The best option is Thistle Hill, and that's only six miles away.
The trail passes through the town of West Hartford In 10 miles, And while the general store closed after Hurricane Irene in 2011, there are a couple of Trail Angels who offer free camping, water, and electricity to hikers.
My grumbling stomach finally motivates me to get my butt out of the hammock at 6:30. It's a little chilly so my first order of business is to pull on some leggings and my fleece shirt before setting to work and packing up my camp. When I pull on my hiking clothes, I smell the reak of ammonia. This means that I'm either really dehydrated or I'm burning a lot of protein. It's probably why I feel so crappy today.
The hike up and over the first ridge is 600 foot of gain over one mile. I am dragging this morning and when I see that I have service I call home. I am having a pity party and my husband gratefully indulges my complaining. Feeling better for venting, I head down the hill where I receive a text message from him a short time later. He says that he is proud of me and that I have this, and it makes me feel so much better knowing that I have his support.
At the bottom of the next hill I unload my pack so that I can fill up my water bladder for this next section. Water is difficult to come by for the next 9 miles and 2,000 feet of climbing.
Heavily laden with an extra 6 pounds of water, I decide to break my hike up into short and manageable sections. I have a 600 ft climb up to a view, where I plan on taking a little break. I take the hill slow and steady without stopping and at the top I am rewarded by a nice but hazy view where a log bench is perched on the side of a small meadow filled with wildflowers.
I see the cell service is good, so I take off my pack and spend the time updating my blog posts. This rest stop is just what I needed to help reset my attitude. While enjoying the beautiful weather and uploading two days of posts, a thru hiker comes huffing up the trail. He is dripping with sweat and breathing hard and I'm glad to see I'm not the only one out here looking like a sponge that was just soaked in water. We chat for 10 minutes, talking about the upcoming challenges of New Hampshire. His name is Carrot Cake, and he is planning on 10 to 12 mile days, which makes me feel better.
Soon I find that all I need to make me feel better is to continue hiking, as the trail meanders on a forest road covered in spruce needles, the spruce trees are towering overhead, creating a park-like atmosphere .
The walk through the park is short-lived, and I crest a small hill a short time later. I reach an open meadow that is absolutely covered in raspberries. I stop and eat handsful of the small but delicious fruit, not minding the bumblebees that fly around everywhere.
For the next mile the trail is flat and slightly downhill and I cross a road where I stop for a picnic lunch on the edge of a meadow before ascending once again.
The next three miles are spent on undulating hills through a beautiful old growth hardwood forest. The trees are towering overhead, filtering dappled sunlight onto the trail. The forest floor is covered in ferns, violets, jewel weed, sweet Sicily, and the occasional stinging nettle.
When I reach the side trail to Thistle Hill Shelter, I start to turn on it. There is supposed to be a stream with a lovely little waterfall a way behind the shelter, but after a few steps I realize I will never get to camp at the rate that I'm going if I keep stopping like this, so I turn around and return to the AT.
Shortly after the Thistle Hill trail is a small but clear stream and I stop to grab a liter of water. I am exceptionally thirsty today, probably owing to the cheese and salami I ate for lunch.
The remainder of the day Is spent walking through mature woods and through ridiculously overgrown fields of raspberry and wild flowers. In places I can't see where the trail, and I emerge covered in scratches all over my arms and legs, which really itch from the constant barrage.
After more than 2,000 feet of descent, the trail follows a road into West Hartford, Vermont. There are no hostels here, but there are two people who are trail famous for allowing people to camp in their yards.
Just a short walk on the bridge over the White River I come to a house with a sign out front. This is the house of Captain Stash and his wife, Scooter.
I walk towards the back of the house and see Carrot Cake, the young man I talked to earlier on the trail. The Captain comes out and he is so welcoming and wonderfully nice. He says I don't need to hike anymore and I should just stay here for the night, and I don't need any more encouragement than that. I admire their beautiful garden, and he offers me some fresh green beans, which I am more than grateful to accept.
Scooter gives me a fresh towel and tells me there is soap in the gazebo where I can charge my electronics. I set up my hammock between two big apple trees, shedding apples all over the ground. I take off my shoes and socks not caring that I'm walking on squishy apples. I munch on the green beans and then take a bath in the cool stream beside a waterfall.
While I am eating dinner Scooter comes out and sits and chats with me. They used to spend time in the Chesapeake Bay close to where I live, and she is familiar with many of the places near my home.
I am filled with peace and joy. So many of my best experiences on the trail have nothing to do with the scenery or the hike itself, but with the people that I meet and the connections that I make. The overwhelming kindness of others nourishes my soul.
I tuck into my hammock after saying goodnight to Carrot Cake, and I am out like a light by 8:30.
Today's Stats: 10 miles, 2,582 feet gain
Trail Stats: 1,746 miles, 342K feet gain
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