Carrot cake is awake and brewing coffee in the vestibule of his tent. I say a quick good morning as I run to the privy.
We chat as we pack up. Carrot cake is a really nice guy. He is on the Warrior Expedition and knows Unicorn and Greg that I met in Pennsylvania. After his service to our country he served as a camp counselor for adolescents. He would take 11 to 15 year old kids out on backpacking trips ranging from a few days to up to 45 days I think him for his service to our country, but tell him that I think that managing a camp of kids on overnight trips sounds like a harder job, and he laughingly agrees.
We talk about how there are many different approaches to hiking the trail. Some people are out here treating their hike like a job, mile-focused and militant about hiking. Others, himself included, don't feel like they've had a fulfilling day unless they are exhausted when they get into camp at night. My perception is that I just don't want to feel like I'm suffering. If I did this 15 or 20 years ago my attitude could be very different. I do like the feeling of a job well done and being tired at the end of the day, but it doesn't take as much to get me exhausted! I just want to have fun and enjoy the experience, while still getting some forward progress!
I'm on the trail at 6:45. The trail follows the road through town, and just after leaving the Captain's house I see a sign next to the river that marks the height of the water Inundation during Hurricane Irene. It is well over my head where I stand now, and forced the town's only general store to close.
The trail then turns right on another road and I walk uphill and under the overpasses for I-89 before entering the woods at Podunk Road, where I start uphill for the big climb of the day.
The morning Is very gray and dark, and I forgot to check the weather forecast before I left, so I stop and take my phone off airplane mode. There is a a lot of rain almost right on top of this area. Oh well, I had so many clear days recently that if it's going to rain I'm glad it's happening on a day that I'm going into town. At least my stuff won't get drenched and I won't have to pack up wet gear tomorrow!
I am so thirsty this morning even with all the water I drank yesterday. I even drank a liter last night right before bed. I stop at a stream to filter some water. I drink a half-liter, and filter another half liter In addition to what's in my pack. I think I'm going to need it today. At least my pack doesn't weigh so much now that I've eaten almost three days of food
While I'm filtering water Carrot Cake rolls by. I know I won't see him again so I wish him a happy hike and tell him that I'm just going to roll up my own pace and keep enjoying the trail. He wishes me a good journey as he barrels up the hill.
For the next several miles the trail continues uphill through a mixed hardwood forest of mostly mature trees which is always a delight because the underbrush is usually mimimal and the trail is easy to navigate.
Five miles into my hike, and less than two and a half hours, I reach a sign showing the Connecticut River (and state line) is only five miles away. I check the elevation gain on my watch and I've already done almost 2 000 feet! I'm making really great time this morning and I should be to Hanover by noon.
Just about this time, sprinkles start falling but it's not enough for me to pull out my umbrella. It's kind of hot and humid and I'm comfortable enough with the spattering of raindrops for the next two hours.
I start descending and emerge onto Elm Street. The trail follows the road for the next mile to Norwich, Vermont, the last town in Vermont that I will walk through before leaving the state. The houses are huge and gorgeous. I often think when I walk through neighborhoods that the homeowners must be thrilled with having so much dirty hiker trash walking through on a daily basis.
During the walk down Elm Street, the rain starts falling in earnest, and I am forced to take out my umbrella for the remainder of the hike.
Elm Street ends at Main Street and I follow the blazes to the right toward Hanover. There are several Intersections where the trail crosses on and off ramps for Route 5 and Interstate 91, so I have to take my time at these spots to watch for turning cars.
One mile of walking down Main Street, and by noon as expected, I am over the Connecticut River and cross the state line. I call home and I'm literally crying. This state has been so challenging both mentally and physically. I think my tears are mostly cathartic, but I am relieved nonetheless.
From here I could walk directly to my car, but I decide to continue through the town of Hanover on the trail and then cut back to my car so I don't have to do the extra mile tomorrow, after all it's still relatively early. The streets of downtown Hanover are filled with cars and the sidewalks are thick with pedestrians. This is the home of Dartmouth College, and orientation has started, with students wheeling their luggage around while looking at maps.
When I get to my truck I still have two and a half hours before I can check into the hostel that I booked for the night. I'm running low on freeze-dried dinners and really don't want to do ramen bombs (a mixture of instant mashed potatoes and ramen noodles) that are a backpacking staple. They don't provide very good nutrition other than fat and simple carbs, so I Google search for an REI. There are none nearby but there is a Sierra only six miles away. I head that direction, as Croft was raving about how good the prices are on their freeze-dried meals.
The prices are so good in fact that I spend almost $300 on enough meals that should last me most of the rest of my journey. I also pick up a stuff sack for my clothes, as my Dyneema stuff sack is literally falling apart.
With my resupply chores accomplished, I Google "Buffet near me." I am getting crazed with hunger, and I would love a variety of food. There's a Chinese buffet only four miles away, and I hit it. I eat two huge plates of food, with lots of chicken and vegetables, and some egg rolls and crab rangoons thrown in for good measure, along with a big bowl of egg drop soup.
I'm so stuffed that I need a nap, but I still have to get to the hostel; it's an hour's drive away and I find it easily enough with the help of Google Maps. Once I arrive I find that they only offer laundry services with a hiker package that is an additional 30 dollars. At least the shower is included, so I clean up and then drive to town where I can do laundry and get some fresh fruit and vegetables. I also pick up a pizza, some jalapeño poppers and a Healthy Choice chicken marsala just because I love the flavor.
By the time I return to the hostel it's six o'clock and I am exhausted but getting hungry again so I pop the "Carnivore" frozen pizza in the oven and eat the whole thing within minutes. 1,100 calories in the bag! I save the jalapeño poppers and chicken marsala for breakfast tomorrow. Another thousand calories, and just a few things that I've been craving!
There is a man staying here who has the look of a hiker. I ask him if he's on trail and he says he is and his name is Boomer. He is enthusiastic and really. We chat for a few minutes and he talks about needing some more food. I tell him that I have plenty and I am happy to resupply him with whatever he needs. He says he thinks he's okay until the next town, but he will let me know before he leaves tomorrow.
I retire to my bunk. I am really fortunate in that I am the only person in this bunk room tonight so I have the place to myself!
I sit in bed and update my blog for a little while before going to sleep at 9:30.
Today's Stats: 9.7 miles, 1,955 feet gain
Trail Stats: 1,756 miles, 344K feet gain
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