Appalachian Trail Day 3 - Hawk Mountain Shelter to Woody Gap (Miles 8.1 to 20.5)

We are up and packing at sunrise, which is 7 am. The Hawk Mountain shelter area is on a ridge, with dappled sun shining through the sparsely-leaved trees. The best alarm clock ever!  The sky is cloudy, the temp cool, and the wind, which howled through the night, continues to blow. Penny is the first one up and halfway packed. I pack quickly, moving fast to stay warm. Within 20 minutes I am ready to head down the trail, as the other hikers start emerging from their tents.  Woody Gap is 12.4 miles down the trail. 

The sun cresting the ridge at Hawk Mountain

Penny is heating water for coffee. Something new on this trip on this trip for me is forgoing my morning Joe for 2 instant coffee packets mixed with chocolate protein powder and nido milk powder. A pint-sized plastic mason jar with lid and a blender ball mixes the concoction perfectly.  A perfect breakfast to drink while hiking! 

The first one on the trail! Just before leaving, I said to Penny "make sure you take a left at the trail intersection." So what happened?  In my pre-caffeinated morning stupor, I charged right up Hawk Mountain.  Thankfully one can traverse the entire flat-topped ridge in five minutes!  After a half mile of walking around the top of Hawk in circles, realizing there are no blazes (the 2 inch by 6 inch white rectangles painted on regularly-spaced trees), I turn on my Garmin to discover the trail is back down towards the shelter. Arriving back to the trail junction, I went from first to dead last, earned an extra bonus mile, and hiked an extra couple hundred feet of elevation! Woody Gap is still 12.4 miles down the trail, and I just blew 45 minutes trying to find the trail at the top of Hawk mountain. 

The Missed Trail Crossing

Down the trail, I caught up to Buttah (like butter but southern style), and Tiki. No, there names aren't really Buttah and Tiki, but on the trail everyone gets a trail name.  Some come to the trail with a chosen or earned name. My dad's trail name is "Crash," which doesn't need an explanation. 

Buttah and Tiki are fishing and kayak guides in North Carolina. Buttah has a sweet Aussie Shepard named Mick. Buttah is the fastest hiker in the group, but Tiki was struggling with a poorly fitted pack. He is new to backpacking, and understandably doesn't want to buy all the gear at once. 

Penny is also struggling with her pack. A bungee cord is keeping her stuff from falling out the top. She has stuff hanging EVERYWHERE! At one point there are 12 items jiggling and jangling, swaying back in forth like a metronome in time to her steps. Walking behind her can be hypnotising.  We are trying to find her trail name. She has so many gadgets that we toss around Gadget Girl and Gizmo, but we tabled the discussion because maybe she will get rid of some stuff (fingers crossed). She is planning on getting a new pack as soon as we get to Mountain Crossings at Neel's Gap.

Sassafras Mountain kicked my butt and the elevation gain is only 1,000 feet!  The wind was blowing hard and cold, numbing hands, face, and feet.  Maybe not having a real breakfast was a bad idea. I could stop for a snack, but I really wanted to get over the ridge and warm up. On the other side, near a road crossing (called a Gap in the south) someone left some water at the bottom, which was welcome as my water bladder is empty. After meeting up with several others who camped near us, we head up the trail. 

We missed Penny at each crossing. Some guys were moving super fast up the trail, and they said they would keep a look out for Penny to let her know that she wasn't behind me. We ended up meeting at the Woods Hole shelter at lunch time. Eleven people are here that were at Hawk Mountain shelter last night. Two are choosing to stay and not continue.  Penny has been here for an hour. She thought I was ahead of her and left her! 

The view south. Springer mountain is the one on the left

We get to Woody Gap as the sun is hitting the horizon. Buttah and Tiki decide to stay here and we share a level site near the Gap. We were so tired. We collected water down the hill and then went straight to bed after dinner. 

Today: 12.4 miles, total ascent 2779 ft

Appalachian Trail Day 2 - Springer Shelter to Hawk Mountain Shelter (Mile 0 to 8.1)

SPRINGER MOUNTAIN! We are at SPRINGER freaking mountain! The Start of the Appalachian Trail! 

Let me say first we are thrilled beyond belief to be here,  however the outdoor camping experience last night was less than ideal. Lightening, thunder, and wind-driven rain so hard that water splashes a foot up against the down quilt under the hammock.

Last night I was up almost every hour until 3:30 am. Then I passed out 2 whole hours. Nobody up at 5:30 am. Back to sleep. 6:30 am - Penny is up but she takes an hour longer than me to pack up. Back to sleep. 7:30 am, everyone else is up and I'm the last one out of bed! Everyone was sluggish and slow to start, probably because of the stormy weather until the wee hours. The only dry items in my camp are my clothes I wore to bed and my top quilt. 

But we are elated! We have officially started the Appalachian Trail! We are AT Backpackers! The elements tested us and we are worthy!! Time for coffee!! 

But first, we must pee in the trees where the other campers won't see us, filter water from a stream that is little more than a mud-soaked trickle, put on yesterday's wet and very cold hiking clothes, and break camp. All of this takes about an hour. 

We enjoy a casual breakfast and coffee at the shelter. The fire was revived for a brief bit of collegial sharing of the previous night. Some campers slept like logs, oblivious of Mother Nature's wrath, while some, like myself, reveled in awe at the fact a person can sleep outside on a mountaintop in a sub-tropical deluge with nothing more that some nylon and some very expensive down managing to keep us alive. Two braver souls chose the option of a firm roof over their heads in the shelter proper. They remained dry and somewhat less concerned of the lightening and wind, but they told stories of mice scuttling about their person in the night! I am not sure if I was jealous or grossed out. 

We left the shelter at 9:30, which is late this time of the year. Hiking in the fall means more time in camp due to the shorter days, but also means fewer daylight hours to hike. We must take advantage of the sunlight to make some miles. I'm okay with night hiking, even relishing the idea on occassion, especially when we have no great views.  Penny, on the other hand, prefers to be in camp before dusk so she can have her hammock set up. But I digress..

Parting from camp is both happy and sad. We made some friends we will never see again, but a few we will meet up with further on the trail.  Some we see multiple times per day, hopscotching as one or the other stops to refill our water, take a snack, or other necessary rest stop. 

The morning is cool and the clouds slowly part to offer the promise of a sunny day. We cross a stream multiple times, first on rocks, then on a log "bridge," then a real bridge almost choked by rhododendron.

One of many Stover Creek Crossings

Today is a low mileage day as we build up our "trail legs." Only 8 miles, so lots of breaks planned. Our first break is at Three Forks. A pleasant junction of Stover and Chester Creek. I am unaware of the name of the third creek. Moreover, there are so many little creeks, were it Ten Forks I wouldn't be surprised. 

The sun is shining on a little picnic glade between the bridge and the road. We spread our wet gear out to dry while we filter water and snack on nut bars. Other hikers join us or pass us. I could stay right here for the rest of the day, but the trail calls...

Five more miles to Hawk Shelter. Gorgeous, but arduous because of the elevation change and the weight of our packs. 

We spread out our wet clothes, hopeful they dry a little more before we have to redress for hiking in the morning. Mountain House dinner (just add water!) in front of the fire with about 15 other packers in and around the shelter. 

Today we hiked 8.1 miles with 1145 feet elevation gain. 

The view from the Hammock

 

Amy and Penny's Amazing Appalachian Trail Adventure - Day 1 - Amicalola Falls State Park to Springer Mountain (Mile -8.1 to 0.2)

Penny and I had a wonderful pre-hike night at Hostel Around the Bend. After getting settled in our shared private room, we drove the 10 minutes into town for a burger and a brew at the aptly named Hiawassee Brew. The burgers were great, the beer even better.  

We were giddy with excitement for the start of our hike.  After a restless night of sleep, our shuttle arrived just as we finished loading our packs. Our driver, Frank, is a nice guy who gave us an informative drive of the area to Amicalola Falls State Park. We made a couple of stops (motrin and a replacement charging box for the phones) and arrived at the park around 11 am. We registered at the office, then took the obligatory pictures at the arch for the approach trail. 

The start of our approach trail in Amicalola Falls State Park, Georgia

The approach trail is 8.6 miles to Springer Mountain, which is the official start of the AT. One doesn't have to hike the approach trail - the option is to start at the Springer Mountain parking lot, which is about one mile north of the official start. Then one would have to hike south, spend a moment at the start, then backtrack the mile back north. Penny and I opted to get the whole experience by doing the extra 8.6 miles so we could look back at pictures and reminisce on our complete AT adventure. 

The trail started pleasantly enough. We ambled for all of one-quarter mile through woods on a gentle-sloped dirt path which paralleled the woods. Our amble quickly turned to a slog uphill on 675 wooden and stone steps. The weather was overcast and cloudy, and while the falls WERE beautiful, we joked about a better plan would have been to have Frank drive us to the park for a look and then to Springer for an easier start to the AT.  While we were suffering up the hill, all the other day hikers looked in wonder and amazement at the old ladies climbing up the hill with loaded packs. 

Amicolola Falls, Georgia

Penny had to stop and adjust her pack several times, as the pack was a recent purchase with a different suspension system than her other packs. The design was really cool, but she learned quickly that the pack was not going to work fully loaded for a multi-night backpack trip. We briefly visited the lodge at the top of the falls. We should have stayed here! The lobby is stunning! However, I hear the nightly rate is just as stunning, so maybe the hostel was better, after all! 

The lobby of Amicalola Falls Lodge

The sky turned ever more dark and cloudy, with a haze of fog turning to steady sprinkles for the next 5 miles. We followed the blue-blazed trail, climbing steadily to the Springer, excitement mounting. Finally, after 3,000 feet of elevation gain, and soaked to the bone, we crest a hill. Wait! The blazes ran out! We took a few minutes of scratching our heads before we realized we made it to the top! I was expecting lots of people milling about a small bald, appreciating the views of the distant valleys, however I as a little downtrodden to see a plaque set into the rock in a wooded copse. However, we celebrated the moment with a picture and entry into the logbook. 

The Southern Terminus of the Appalachian Trail, Springer Mountain, Georgia

We continued the 0.2 miles to the Springer shelter. The shelters are curious respites from the vagaries of the trail, usually consisting of three sides, open to the elements but a shelter nonetheless. Most shelters also have a fire pit, water source (spring or stream), a privy set away from the water source, and picnic table. Other campers were already set up in and behind the shelter. Penny and I set up camp, then hung out in the shelter proper with the other 10 or so hikers which were in resident that night.  Some of the campers had been there 2 nights, making it a weekend. We enjoyed a roaring fire while eating our freeze-dried dinners and some campfire conversation until 9 pm, when the skies opened up. The rain and wind were amazing! 40 mph winds whipped the mountain all night, coming in sideways under the tarp. 

Springer Mountain Shelter the day after the deluge

Sign up to follow along as Penny and I continue our adventure!

Section Hiking the Appalachian Trail - Amy and Penny's Amazing Appalachian Trail Hike (Introduction)

For almost 15 years I read about the Appalachian Trail and dreamed of the adventure of a lifetime. 11 years ago I did the math and knew my youngest would be out of college, so decided 2021 was my year to hike. I originally planned on through hiking, but realized this isn't for me.

Firstly, the pandemic and life in general is preventing me from through hiking. I am a nurse in a hospital, and I am an essential employee in the setting of a pandemic combined with a terrible nursing shortage. Taking off six months to meander along the trail while my fellow nurses are drowning in the trenches makes my heart sad. However, my intentions aren't altogether altruistic. As the saying goes, I gotta make hay while the sun shines. Taking off six months when I have the potential to maximize my earnings is cool for anyone doing so, but just doesn't make sense for me. I do want to retire one day...

Secondly, I tend to get bored with the trail after a couple weeks. Hiking is a pure joy for me. Sleeping outside whenever I see an inviting forest glen or a spectacular view that begs me to hang my hammock so I may witness a breathtaking sunrise is absolutely liberating!! Hiking for weeks on end just seems more like a job than a fun thing to do.

Lastly, I miss my family too much. My husband. My grand baby. I just can't...

Last year, one of my hiking buddies asked me to show her how to backpack. For anyone who is unfamiliar with sleeping outdoors and carrying everything you need to survive on your back for days at a time, this may sound easy. Trust me - it's a lot harder than it sounds.

Penny with backpack #1, AT in MD

We originally planned on starting June 2020 in Georgia, hiking north one two-week section at a time. Lockdowns on travel and resources all over the world changed our plan to local backpacking. We spent several trips exploring the AT within 3 hours of our homes, including the 42 miles across Maryland in 100* temps in 2 1/2 days. Penny played with her new gear, and decided to trade in a couple new purchases for more new purchases. Like her hammock, her tarp, her backpack, her sleeping bag. By the time we started the trail, I think Penny replaced everything but her stove and titanium cup! Man, she loves that cup :-)

Penny with her new Hennessy Hammock in Dolly Sods

So this week is the start of realizing another bucket list hike for me. Penny and I left for Hiawassee Georgia. After 12 hours of driving, and a stop at Hiawassee Brew for some great local beer and a fabulous burger, we stayed at Hostel Around the Bend (previously Top of Georgia Hostel). Located east of Hiawassee, HATB is 0.6 miles from the AT crossing of Dick's Creek Gap. Recently renovated, this place is a very clean and peaceful respite from the town. 

All of this needs to fit into my Backpack!

One week of food for the Trail

Penny packing for the Appalachian Trail at Hostel Around the Bend

Backpacking 101: Most Common Mistakes of New Backpackers

I love organizing trips for inexperienced backpackers; they are so enthusiastic, just so happy to be outside, like every pretty view is the most amazing thing ever!  

Recently I organized a trip of 13 for a little trek on the Appalachian Trail from Maryland to Harper's Ferry.  A total of 20-ish miles over three days, so perfect for less experienced packers. Since this was far from my first 

1. Taking gear lists too literally: First, let me start by saying that Everyone, at every time they trek into the woods, should carry the 10 Essentials.  Heck, I carry them in my car so I have them whenever I leave my house!  Other than these, a lot of items are up for debate.  trowel, soap, deodorant. 

2. Carrying too much of one item: toilet paper, bottle of vitamins, entire package of fire starters

3. Carrying too large of an item:  full-size Mag Lite, half-pound bag of coffee. 

4. Buying too small of a pack:  hanging lots of stuff on the outside of your pack.

5. Buying too large of a pack:  it's like women who carry a large purse - if you have the space, you will fill it with needless space. 

6. Letting other people make you bring stuff:  if you aren't planning on cooking stead and potatoes over the fire, then don't carry it for anyone else! 

7. Not preparing for weather:  Temperature swing of 40* in one weekend (80* high first day to 40*F with a brisk wind the second night).

8. Not pre-testing gear:  Let's face it - gear failure is a fact of life.  

9. Overestimating Your Physical Fitness:  Pace yourself appropriately:  

10.  Proper hydration:  Don't underestimate how thirsty you may be, especially when you are a little out of shape and carrying weight.  One liter per 2 hours, plus one liter for every 1000' elevation gain should keep you from dying of thirst. 

11.  Don't forget the walmart bags!  They are terrible for the environment, but awesome to put over dry socks in cold weather once your feet get wet.  An awesome vapor barrier that can save 10 digits you will miss terribly once your fee thaw out.

Packaging Crackers for the Trail

I love hummus and with homemade flax crackers for lunch.  Drying and packing the hummus is easy, but the challenge is keeping the crackers from becoming a crumbled mess in my food bag.  Here is a video where I show how I pack crackers in a lightweight Crystal Light-type container. 

Enjoy, and Happy Hiking!  <3 Demeter

Backpacking 101: Getting Started - Finding a Hiking Group

I get email messages like this all the time:

"I'm interested in backpacking but don't know where to start.  I don't have any gear, anyone to hike with, and don't know where to go.  Please help!"

This article will focus on finding someone to hike with.  By hiking with other people, you can ask questions about hiking and backpacking, gaining knowledge to make you more prepared for hiking and backpacking.

I am by no means an expert, but I possess a passion for the woods.  When I was 11, while other girls played with dolls, I pretended to be lost in the woods, making sassafras tea to "survive."  Living in Colorado at the age of 12, our church took some kids to Breckenridge to climb mountains, where I bagged my first "fourteener."  

Mt. Quandary, Colorado.  My First Mountain, 1980.