Appalachian Trail Day 89 - Byrd's Nest Hut to Elkwallow Wayside - Open Arms and Miss Alison (Mile 941 to Mile 953)

 I wake in the predawn darkness and start packing up quickly, because I am on a mission to get to town today. I arranged for Alison to pick us up at Elkwallow Wayside and drive us to Open Arms, where I can take a shower and do laundry.  Martian is agreeable to going to the hostel for a town stop, even though he doesn't need to resupply at this time. 

The sun is just starting to rise as I load my pack onto my back.  Martian and Scrat are also ready.  They said they had a good sleep and no mice ran over them, unlike previous shelter inhabitants. 

The temperature isn't very cold; my thermometer reads 54F degrees, but I am really chilly so I leave my down coat on as I leave the shelter.  I will probably need to stop in a few hundred yards to take it off, but I don't care.

Appalachian Trail Day 88 - Big Meadows Campground to Byrds Nest Hut (Mile 927 to Mile 941)

I slept really well last night and as soon as I wake up I jump up and start packing. The weather app says there is a strong likelihood of rain today, and I want to get an early start because bad weather always slows me down. My motivation for getting going this morning is that the trail runs by Skyland Lodge about 8 miles away, and I am hoping to sit in a nice building on a nice chair and charge my electronics while drinking a nice cup of hot tea before lunch.  

The trail is a short walk from my campsite, and I jump on the trail at 7:30 am.  Mist hangs in the air and fog hugs the tree canopy above.  What a dreary day!  I hope the sun makes an appearance and burns off some of the fog, but severe storms are forecast for this evening, so probably not. 

The trail winds around the campground, which is starting to wake up.  I am positively amazed at the number of camper vans represented through the campground.  Some of the campers are venturing outside to make coffee under the shelter of portable canopies.   

The trail veers to the northeast and leaves the campground, descending for the next two miles.  The woods are eerily quiet in the early morning and so pretty.  Lots of ferns dot the ground, and the woods on either side of the trail are flat and expansive. I look up to see six deer looking quietly at me from less than 30 feet away.  I hear a bird and for a minute I think it's a chicken, until I realize it's a turkey gobble.  I laugh at myself, scaring the deer. 

After an hour I pass some rocky outcrops which are marked as views on FarOut, but all I see is fog, so I just keep moving.  I really have nothing exciting to report, since I couldn't see much more than 100 feet in any direction.  

The trail starts to ascend for the next mile and a half.  I pass a side trail to Rock Spring Hut, but I don't stop.  The good news is I am crossing so many springs that just appear from the trail that water is very plentiful and all I need to do if I want a drink of water is to hold my water bag under the flow for a minute.  I screw the filter on and sip as I walk. 

I do walk by a lot of tall and wide rock formations, which are really cool looking in the foggy conditions. 

The eight mile hike to Skyland passes quickly, and I think of how much faster I hike when I don't dawdle on the trail and focus strictly on hiking.   Just before Skyland I walk next to a series of fences and barns that I realize is a horse stable facility.  I see some horses from a distance.  I guess they will have a relaxing day today; I can't imagine anyone wanting to go horse riding in this yucky weather. 

Ten minutes later I see Skyland Lodge.  I have travelled to many places in the park over the years, but I don't recall ever visiting this area.  Wouldn't you know, as soon as I walk from the woods to cross the road, the sun starts to peek out from behind the clouds and I can actually see my shadow!

When I approach the entrance to the lodge, I see several backpacks leaning against the building under the cover of the portico. I drop my pack and grab my electronics and food bag out of the top before entering the building, which resembles the lobby of a hotel.  A store is to the left, a Starbucks counter to the left, and a restaurant is in front of the entrance.  I spy some chairs just to the right of the Starbucks and head there, seeing a lamp illuminating the corner, which means electrical outlets!

I walk toward the space, when I recognize the four people sitting in front of the large stone fireplace in front of the restaurant.  They were staying at the barn the night before last!  The three men and one woman are section hiking northbound through the park. I stop to say hello, and they state they are waiting for the restaurant to open in 15 minutes.

I sit in a comfy armchair and rearrange another chair so I can prop my battery packs on the chair while they charge; my charging cable is super short in order to save weight.  One of the gentlemen comes over to chat.  His name is Bob and he seemed very nice when we chatted briefly in the barn.  Bob tells me that two of his friends didn't enjoy the barn experience at all, and I tell him that I really liked it.  I think with a little planning the farm could be another Woods Hole.  

Bob is preparing for the Tour du Mont Blanc in Europe; an iconic hike that starts in Chamonix, France, and crosses into Italy and Switzerland.  I did the same trip a couple years a go with my husband, so I share about our experience on that trail with Bob until the restaurant opens and Bob goes inside with his friends.  

I get a large hot tea and put a dozen packets of raw sugar in the steaming water. I am going through my emails with my head down when someone sits next to me.  It's Martian!  He seems in great spirits this morning.  He attended Wayne's church service yesterday and then Wayne and Robin gave him lunch before taking him back to Swift Run Gap yesterday.  He hiked in 9 miles and stayed at the only shelter between the gap and the campground, so he has hiked 16 miles already this morning! Lol I can do that many only if I have all day.   

Martian grabs some food from Starbucks and says he saw Babysteps at the last shelter, as well as Space, Z-Dog, and Heat Stroke.  I am planning on stopping at Byrds Nest Hut, another 6 miles up the trail, which will be a 14 mile day for me, but if he hikes with me he will have a 22 mile day.  He says he can do it, so we pack up and head up the trail. 

Bob and his three hiker friends are finished with their lunch and strapping on their packs when we walk outside.  I still need to get some water, so we say happy trails.  The sky is drizzling and I am chilled to the bone after sitting in the warm and snug lobby.  I wonder quite frequently why I am okay with giving up the creature comforts as I snap my umbrella open and strap it to my pack to walk up the hill back to the trail. 

The rain picks up as Martian and I hike up a hill.  We talk about Trail Days, which is in Damascus next weekend.  He is asking about how one gets there from the trail this far away, and I tell him about a Facebook group where people post queries about rides.  I ask if he is planning on going, and he says he is not, but is curious.  

The next 2.5 miles pass quickly as we hike easily downhill.  I am really cold but don't want to put on layers, so I just walk faster. We pass a couple of foggy views, but they keep improving as we hike.  So far the promised thunderstorms haven't materialized. 

I spy some rocks artfully arranged on the side of the trail.  I take a few minutes before I realize it's the signature of the Six Pack.  This is the kind of trail "graffiti" that is totally acceptable out here!  

The hike from Skyland has been fairly easy until we start uphill again.  The map shows we have less than 1,000 feet of gain over the next four miles, which is a piece of cake. The clouds keep moving on and the views keep improving.  Maybe we will luck out and not have any rain this afternoon.  

We are on a switchback when we pass a young woman resting on the side of the trail.  We say hi and keep hiking until we reach the Pinnacle Picnic Area.  Bob and friends are sitting around a picnic table in the sun, and I say I am ready for a little break.  We take off our packs under a really nice picnic pavilion made of thick logs, a huge stone fireplace dominating the center.  

Martian and I talk to the other hikers.  They don't want to risk getting stuck in the next shelter in a thunderstorm, since they think it will be packed with hikers; the shelter only fits 6 people.  They called Alison at Open Arms Hostel in Luray, and she is en route to pick them up.  Martian and I remark about how nice this pavilion would be to camp under.  I could even string my hammock up in here.  But I would never do such a thing: my history of working in the park service prevents me from breaking the rules so blatantly.  Plus, we wouldn't be able to set up until after dark, since the likelihood of a park employee coming by and busting us is pretty high.  On the other hand, the flush toilets and running water is calling to me...

The clouds are starting to build to the west and the sky is darkening, so Martian and I say goodbye to the hikers.  We probably won't see them again, so I tell Bob I hope he has a wonderful trip to the Alps. We still have two miles to get to the shelter, and we have a small climb of 400' over The Pinnacle before we arrive at the shelter.  

Even with the impending weather, the views up here are expansive.  I take a picture but don't stop because I would hate to get soaked at this point. I try to pick up the pace but the loose rocks underfoot make it impossible to go very fast. 

I arrive at Byrds Nest right before Martian, and see the young lady who we passed earlier on the trail.  She walked by Pinnacle Picnic area while we were talking to the other hikers.  We say hello she offers to move over, but I tell her not to bother, since I will set up in my hammock.  Her name is Scrat, and she is section hiking the Shennies.

My tarp fits a couple of trees on a slope on the hill in front of the shelter.  The storm is coming in from behind the shelter, so I am protected from the wind, and there are no widow makers in the trees above. I set up the tarp low to the ground so wind and rain won't be able to sweep in from under the edges. 

The wind is picking up and thunder is pealing occasionally in the distance, but so far the storm is holding off. I realize I am out of water, and Scrat tells me the water is way down the hill.  Ugh, I didn't look at the comments in the app before leaving the picnic area!  Otherwise, I would have filled up at one of the many spigots. 

I pull on my raincoat and walk down for quite a long time.  My watch says it's exactly 0.3 miles, which matches the app description.  The water is so far downhill, in fact, that I can see Skyline Drive from the fat pipe that is gushing beautiful mountain water.  I collect two liters, which should be more than enough for my dinner tonight and to get me to the next water source in the morning. 

I am trudging up the hill when I see a delicate orange salamander that I later identify as a red-spotted newt, which is confusing because this is definitely orange and not red. 

I arrive back at the shelter and hydrate my dinner and filter water just when the thunderstorm decides to make an entrance.  I run over to the bear box and throw my food bag inside and run to the shelter of my tarp, saying goodnight to Scrat and Martian, who are the only shelter occupants other than the mice.

Goodnight

Todays Stats: 14.2 Miles, 2,700' gain, 2,700' loss

Trail Stats: 941 Miles, 210K gain, 211K loss

Appalachian Trail Day 87 - Small Axe Farm to Big Meadows Wayside and Campground (Mile 910 to mile 927)

I wake at 5:30 but don't want to wake anyone else up so I lay here quietly until more people start rousing.  I don't have to wait long before the next person wakes up and starts packing in the dark.  I guess they don't care about anyone but themselves because all of a sudden they just turns on the lights, waking everyone else! 

People start packing and Non-Stop makes really strong coffee for everyone.   Hikers start running around as the first shuttle of the morning leaves at 7:30. I pack up but don't get out of my cozy loaner clothes until the last minute.  I take my time because my shuttle isn't until 8:15. At 7:45 am,  another shuttle arrives and I'm told I will have to take this one or have to wait another hour. EEK! 

Now I hop into gear and I change and finish packing in a jiffy.  I leave behind most of my belongings in a large trash bag because today I am slackpacking, which means I'm hiking with just water,  snacks,  and rain gear.  Non-Stop and Buttercup are also slackpacking, but they will definitely beat me to our hiking destination today, which is Big Meadows Wayside. Wayne is coming back after the first shuttle to grab the pile of bags, which he will deliver to all of us up the trail later today.  Martian is staying behind so he can attend Wayne's church service this morning. 

I arrive at Swift Run Gap,  and by 815 I'm on the trail. It's no longer raining, but it may as well be,  since large drops of water rain down constantly from the trees above.  I use my umbrella the first 3 miles to keep me from getting wet,  and I stop to put on my raincoat after 2 miles because the wind is picking up and I'm getting cold. The fog envelops the trail and visibility is poor, so I keep my head down and listen to my audiobook. 

Lewis Mountain Campground

I'm so engrossed in my book and making good time on the ready terrain that before I know it, I have hiked 8.5 miles with over 2,000 feet of climbing to arrive at Lewis Mountain Campground.  I fill my water bladder at a fountain and enjoy the luxury of a heated bathroom with a flush toilet.  I wash my hands with lots of soap in the hot water,  reluctant to go back into the gray damp woods, but I still have over 9 miles to my final destination. 

An hour later, as I climb he sky starts to clear and rays of sunlight start to peek through, warming the ground that I need to shed my raincoat and gaiters as I climb up a rocky waterlogged trail over Bearfence Mountain.  There are no views to be had from the trail, and I don't feel like walking bonus miles to the overlook.  I'm just thankful for the respite from the cold wind and rain.

After hiking almost 12 miles, I get tired of slipping constantly on the mud and having no good views so when the trail parallels the road I say "screw it, " and hop onto Skyline Drive.  Martian and I were joking yesterday about "dirty yellow blazers,"  hikers who walk on the roads or even hitchhike to avoid the vagaries of the trail.  Guess now I am a dirty yellow blazer then.  

This was exactly what I needed to lift my spirits, however, because almost as soon as I get on the road, I am rewarded by sunshine!  This is a sign that I did the right thing, for sure.  Then, about a half-mile later, I walk to a pull-off with a lovely overlook to the southeast.  I am enjoying the scenery in the warm sunlight when I check my cell signal and it's good enough to call home!  I check in with my husband, my parents, and even both of my daughters.  

I am buoyed by all of these things that all of a sudden my attitude has done a 180 degree turn and I start walking north on Skyline Drive with a little pep in my step.  Not even 10 minutes later, a van stops and Wayne sticks his head out of the window!  He asks if I would like a ride to Big Meadows Wayside, where he is picking up Non-Stop and Buttercup so he can drive them 8 miles up the road to Skyland Lodge where they are staying the night. 

I tell him that I am happy to walk the three miles to Big Meadows now that the sun has come out, and he says he will meet me there on his way back from Skyland.   He drives on and about a half-mile later I see the A.T. crosses Skyline Drive once again at Milam Gap, and I hop back on the trail to go back into the woods. 

 

One hour later, I walk up to the Big Meadows Wayside, where I spot Wayne's van.  He gets out and opens the lift gate so I can retrieve my big trash bag of belongings.  He only charges me $10 for the slackpack since he had to come this way regardless, and I think it's a great deal.   I give him my profuse thanks and a big hug and say goodbye to him and his lovely wife. 

I decide to sit outside of the wayside so I can stuff my belongings back into my backpack. The grill is open and I decide I can't pass up the opportunity for some fresh, hot food, so a couple agrees to watch my belongings while I go into the wayside.  I order a fried chicken dinner and decide to splurge with a tall can of Pabst Blue Ribbon; only the best for this girl!

I think I alarm the couple sitting next to me by how fast I gobble up the fried chicken, not wasting one crumb.  The sides of a biscuit, collard greens, and bean salad also go down quickly, but I save the can of beer for a treat later on, after I get my camp in order.  I decide to stay at the Big Meadow Campground, where I can really treat myself to running hot water and a flush toilet!

The campground is almost another miles' walk from the wayside, and the office gets me registered quickly. I picked a campsite a stone's throw from the trail, near the main road.  I am really surprised at how many campers are here this early in the season!  It's Sunday afternoon but you would think it's Saturday, with camper vans everywhere in the huge campground.  I am camped next to a family in a monstrously big tent.  

I am thrilled to have a bear box at my campsite, and a bathroom is only four sites away.  I take off my disgusting shoes and socks and set up my camp in my bare feet, the grass delightfully soft underfoot.  I am set up very quickly, and decide to sit in my hammock enjoying the breeze for a little while.  

I fill my water bladder in preparation for the next day's hike, and get my breakfast shake ready, setting in in the bear box with my food and trash.  I retire to my hammock and sit and read while enjoying the delicious beer.  I never in my life thought I could enjoy a Pabst this much!

I'm out by 8:15 pm.

Today's Stats: 17 miles, 3,700 feet elevation gain

Trail Stats: 927 miles, 207K elevation gain, 208K feet loss

Appalachian Trail Day 86 - Pinefield Hut to Small Axe Farm - A Barn in a Storm and Goats! (Mile 898 to Mile 910)

I'm disappointed that I slept terribly last night.  I have no idea why; I was comfortable enough, but woke up a little after midnight and for some reason I could not go back to sleep until almost 3 a.m..  Since starting back on the trail past Glasgow, the only time I slept more than 8 hours is when I overslept at Maupin shelter.  I know my body needs to recover more than the 7 hours I am averaging so far.   My Garmin tells me my sleep is poor and my "body battery" is pretty much dead by the end of each day. 

Even with the limited sleep, I still woke up at 5:30 and i am packed and out of camp by seven, before most of the scouts are even awake. I wave a hello to Babysteps right before I hoist my backpack onto my back.   She is  stumbling back from the privy, half awake and yawning, heading back to her tent.

Leaving Pinefield Hut

The weather is going to be bad tonight and I'm in desperate need of a bath and some clean clothes. It's been almost a week since I've had a shower, and I've worn the same clothes every day and every night for the same week.  My smell is eye-watering.  Fortunately Preacherman Wayne is based out of Swift Run Gap at mile 910, and there is a hostel and hotel in Elkton, only 20 minutes from the trail. I send the hostel and Wayne text messages the second I get a cell phone signal, hoping everything lines up for me to get off the trail. 

I vocalized my intention last night to the group of hikers gathered around the table.  Non-Stop and Buttercup are also heading into town at Swift Run Gap. They have a shuttle lined up at 1 pm, but I doubt I will be able to keep up to them. 

The day starts out with an easy uphill. The trail here is like a meadow with tall grass on either side and lots of briars.  A Sobo hiker at the shelter last night said he got at least 5 ticks on him from the grass, so I stick to the middle of the trail here.  The temperature Is slightly muggy but not too warm. 

The trail traverses three mountains today, with each mountain subsequently increasing in elevation gain, but none more than 1,000 feet at a time. Easy peasy by AT standards. Today is monumental, since I will be hitting the 900 mile mark soon!

I find several Dryads saddle mushrooms, some way past good eating but several that are perfect for picking.  Unfortunately I don't have a way to transport the tender fungi that won't smush them up, so I let them be.  My mind wanders and I consider how I can best carry things I find on my hike so I can enjoy them at night in camp. Maybe I can clip a mesh bag (like the kind people use to wash delicate items in the laundry) to the top of my pack for foraging during the day.  

I hike over Weaver Mountain and look for something marking the 900 mile mark.  They can be a little challenging to spot, since I never know what they will be made of, but foragers are good at training our eyes and minds to spy patterns in nature.  Anyway, if I can't find the mark, I can make my own.  Just when I think I need to gather materials for a sign, I see a small 900 made of rocks on the side of the trail, a larger flat rock the backdrop.  There isn't much room on the trail for a full jig, but I throw my arms up and wiggle my body in a celebratory dance. 

Shortly after Weaver Mountain  I passed a group of gentlemen.  One of them stops in chats with me and he says that he left a cooler with trail magic at the next pass.  He said that he had fruit, soda, and chocolate milk but Non-Stop and Buttercup obliterated the peaches so there probably aren't any of those left, LOL.  I thank him for his kindness and continue on.

I go up and over my second climb of the day, enjoying the view and seeing a couple cars on Skyline Drive far below.  I check my messages, and I am pleased to see that my plan for this afternoon is lining up.  The hostel has space, and Wayne is going to pick me up and transport me to the hostel.  

I get to the parking lot at Smith Roach Gap, and see a cooler with a "Trail Magic" sign taped to the top.  I sit on the ground next to the cooler, enjoying a tangerine and a Dr. Pepper when Martian walks up.  I tell him I am getting off at Swift Run Gap and he expresses an interests in going to the hostel in order to escape the coming thunderstorm.  

We start hiking up Hightop Mountain, and when we get to a spring I check my cell signal.  A hiker named Chew Toy arrives at the nice little spring and we talk about the weather coming in. I text the hostel and the shuttle, and they are both good for an extra person so Martian says he will walk with me over Hightop Mountain to Swift Run Gap. 

A Field of Trilliums

Pretty Pink Trilliums

Hightop Mountain has a really pretty view from a big rocky lookout at the top of the mountain.  A dozen people are already crowded onto the small space, eating snacks and chatting.  I snap a quick picture before moving on. Obviously, this trail is super popular and we pass at least 50 people on our descent, several of them families with small children.   

We get to Swift Run Gap At 1:30,  which is way earlier than I was supposed to meet Wayne.  I call him and he said he has a friend that will come and pick us up. I drop my pack and pull out some snacks, but I barely get a few bites when a man pulls up and identifies himself as Wayne's friend. 

15 minutes later we are pulling into the farm, which is cute with several outbuildings, two houses, and a big red barn with goats milling about in the fenced area behind and below the barn.  I think I was expecting a barndominium setup like at Burke's Garden, but this is nothing like that new barn, which was built to be a living place for people with no animals in sight.  Conversely, this is intended to be a living place for animals first, and a shelter for humans second.  I love an adventure, and I immediately think today is going to be one!

We unload from the car and I settle up with the driver and survey our lodging for the night.  The barn doors are thrown wide open in the front and the back of the barn, which is perched on a hill.  The front door is level with the entry, which is actually the top story of the barn.  I set my backpack on the floor and check it out.

The barn is very spacious with three large sofas and a chair occupying the center, arranged in a square and covered with matching blue slipcovers. The barn is made of old boards you can see daylight in the spaces between the boards, which is nice because there isn't any wired lighting. The floor is covered with many large rugs, covering most of the boards underfoot.   

The back door is opened as wide as the front, and looks down onto a huge fenced paddock which runs from underneath the barn and extends over the overhang of the barn roof.  I walk to the back door, where there is no railing, and a number of goats are milling about in the paddock below.  

Buttercup and Non-Stop are the only human occupants. They have their sleeping pads and bags set up on the edge of the floor in front of the back door, looking down into the goat pen; the coolest camping spot in the barn. They are freshly showered and Buttercup is wearing the most outrageous loaner clothes of a muumuu and some crocs that are 2 sizes too small.   I laugh and tell her I love her outfit.  I hope I can find something similar!

A boy of about 10 comes in the barn to show us around and give us house rules, as is the custom for every hostel I have visited on the trail.  The boy states he is in charge of the hostel and will help us with anything we need or any questions we may have.  He asks if we would like to see the animals, so we go outside and I pet some pigs and Martian feeds a baby sheep.  The multiple Great Pyrenees dogs keep jumping, sniffing and drooling all over me so I retreat outside of the fence and return to the barn so I can get cleaned up before anyone else shows up. 

There are 2 small private rooms tucked into the corners on the left side of the living area, which were reserved already when I inquired into staying the night.  On the right side of the barn in the front is a small sitting area with card and board games.  Beside the sitting area is a dining room table and chairs.  In the back corner, plywood walls and a curtain create a bathroom.

There is no plumbing in the barn, and  I am really impressed by the ingenuity of whomever designed the layout.  I love the idea of off-grid living, and this is a prime example:  a composting toilet and bucket of sawdust is on the right, a farmhouse sink and countertop is against the back wall, and a urinal stands between them.  The sink empties into a 5-gallon bucket, as does the urinal.  Two five-gallon glass water containers with spigots are mounted above the sink.  A wardrobe is on the left, and contains neatly folded loaner clothes arranged on hangers. 

The Composting Privy in the Barn

The boy says we can sleep on the sofas or set up our sleeping pads anywhere we like.  He admonishes us to conserve water and please don't throw anything into the toilet.  We can take a shower in the main house and place our dirty clothes into one of the mesh laundry bags located in the bottom of the wardrobe. The clean clothes will be returned to us in the morning. 

We go to check out the other denizens of the farm.  A couple pot-bellied pigs live in a paddock next to the barn, and they love to be petted.  I scratch their backs and find their hair hard with quills like a porcupine than a soft fuzzy animal

I grab some really comfy loaner clothes, which I will have on until I get my hiking clothes back in the morning. I head to the main house for a shower in the family bathroom, and afterwards I drop my towel and dirty clothes on the floor as instructed by the boy.  

The rain starts as I walk out to the barn after my shower. The four of us are thanking our lucky stars for having a solid roof over our heads and the rain quickly becomes an absolute deluge. The storm is so intense that we can't hear any conversation.  The wind starts howling and water starts coming into the barn between the boards.  We roll the front door closed, which keeps the sofas and chair from getting wet, but anything outside of the central sofa sitting area is getting soaked.  Everyone is scrambling, pulling our packs and bedding inside the boundary of the sofas.  I am the only one who hasn't claimed a sleeping area yet, and I realize the driest place in the barn is where I am currently sitting, so I claim a sofa. 

During the tempest, Wayne pulls up and four more hikers are discharged from his van.  Three men and a woman run into the barn and exclaim that there was hail at the gap, and I am once again giving thanks for having a solid roof over my head.  Water is literally pouring off the roof behind us in sheets, and I can't imagine how bad the weather is on the trail right now. Getting off was the best decision ever!

More people keep blowing in and soon there are 13 of us! I'm super glad we arrived early so I could claim a sofa!  The new arrivals are all doing section hikes of Shenandoah.  Non-Stop, Buttercup, Martian, and myself are the only ones hiking beyond the park boundary. We exchange small talk with the other hikers between gales, when conversation is impossible because of the noise from the storm. 

The boy comes in frequently with his sister, and they are so cute and accommodating, acting much older than their ages.  They state dinner will be served late, at around 7:20 pm.  Non-Stop voices his displeasure with the late dinner hour, as most hikers go to bed around 8pm.  I am already hungry so I eat an 800 calorie trail meal as a snack, getting hot water from the coffee pot.  I have a little cell service, so I send text messages home to say I am safe from the storm.  I do some of my Duolingo course, which I have been neglecting while I am on trail. 

Time passes quickly in the busy barn, and around 8 pm, the proprietress and the children bring in dinner, which is looks as amazing as it tastes!  Thick juicy Italian sausages served with sautéed yellow peppers and onions, tender new potatoes, and asparagus.  All we can eat until it's gone!  

Satiated, around 9 pm I get settled on my sofa, snug in my top quilt. The lights are still on but the long distance hikers are dropping like flies. I put in my earplugs and pull my buff down over my eyes.  I really hope the other hikers aren't night owls.  

Good night! 

Today's Stats: 11.4 miles, 2638 feet gain, 2743 feet loss

Trail Stats: 910 miles, 203K feet gain, 205K feet loss

Appalachian Trail Day 85 - Blackrock Hut to Pinefield Hut - Grandma Gatewood's Nephew, Two Lunches, and a Kiwi (Mile 885 to Mile 898 )

I get up really early and pack up quickly.  A middle-aged man is next to the shelter heating water on his camp stove and we exchange quiet a "good morning" as I walk past the shelter on my way to the trail.  He must have arrived after I went to bed last night.  I stop at the bear box and collect my food bag, stuffing it into the top of my pack before trudging up the blue-blazed trail back to the A.T..

My first stop today is Blackrock Mountain.  There are no black rocks in sight, but the huge rocks at the top are an impressive sight, nonetheless.  There is not a lick of dirt up here except the trail.  The rocks are covered in old rock lichens, turned black from age. The views are spectacular in the early morning light.  I can see why the Six Pack wanted to camp up here last night. 

Appalachian Trail Day 84 - Calf Mountain Shelter to Blackrock Hut (Mile 872 to Mile 885)

I wake fairly early, but don't want to wake anyone, so I sit in my hammock and read for a little while.  I finally get up and start packing as quietly as possible.  By the time I leave the shelter area, most of the tenters are up and about.

The trail initially descends on a really nice path.  I cross a stream and top off my water, because today will be the longest water carry of SNP, and the day promises to be a warm one.  My joy at hiking in the beautiful spring forest is short-lived, because after I cross a forest road, I start ascending. 

I am glad for the early start, because I will have 3,000 feet of gain today, so I am happy to be hiking up the first hill in the cooler morning air. I check my cell phone, and I'm thrilled to have one bar.  I call home and I talk to my youngest daughter for a little while until I crest the hill and lose service.

The azaleas are blooming and so pretty.  As I pass by a bush close to the trail, I smell the most lovely floral scent, and I stop to take a tentative sniff of the azalea blossoms, not believing at first that they were the source.   I get the most delicious, delicate scent!  For the last 30 years I hiked this region, I never once realized the azaleas smell so nice.  Now I must stop and smell the pretty pink and white flowers frequently. 

Appalachian Trail Day 83 - Tentsite to Calf Mountain Shelter - Shenandoah National Park! ( Mile 856 to Mile 872)

I wake early and start breaking down my camp, and see the Six Pack is finished about the same time.  We exchange pleasantries.  I offer the kids some lollipops, but they have received so much trail magic, that they decline and offer me Reese's peanut butter cups, which are way better than lollipops!  I remark that this is a more than acceptable breakfast on the trail, with which they wholeheartedly agree. We snap  quick pictures, and I later see our picture on their Youtube video of the day.  They really are the sweetest family, and the children are so polite and engaged in their experience.  I give both the parents and the kids a lot of kudos for sticking it out on the trail.  This is no walk in the park. Conversely, there is a lot of trauma bonding that takes place here. 

We walk together for a mile or so, until they need to stop and I continue on to the shelter to collect water.  I decide to take my shoes off and soak in the positively gorgeous stream in front of the most lovely shelter area. Ugh, why can't I ever find a place like this to spend the night?