People start packing and Non-Stop makes really strong coffee for everyone. Hikers start running around as the first shuttle of the morning leaves at 7:30. I pack up but don't get out of my cozy loaner clothes until the last minute. I take my time because my shuttle isn't until 8:15. At 7:45 am, another shuttle arrives and I'm told I will have to take this one or have to wait another hour. EEK!
Now I hop into gear and I change and finish packing in a jiffy. I leave behind most of my belongings in a large trash bag because today I am slackpacking, which means I'm hiking with just water, snacks, and rain gear. Non-Stop and Buttercup are also slackpacking, but they will definitely beat me to our hiking destination today, which is Big Meadows Wayside. Wayne is coming back after the first shuttle to grab the pile of bags, which he will deliver to all of us up the trail later today. Martian is staying behind so he can attend Wayne's church service this morning.
I arrive at Swift Run Gap, and by 815 I'm on the trail. It's no longer raining, but it may as well be, since large drops of water rain down constantly from the trees above. I use my umbrella the first 3 miles to keep me from getting wet, and I stop to put on my raincoat after 2 miles because the wind is picking up and I'm getting cold. The fog envelops the trail and visibility is poor, so I keep my head down and listen to my audiobook.
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| Lewis Mountain Campground |
I'm so engrossed in my book and making good time on the ready terrain that before I know it, I have hiked 8.5 miles with over 2,000 feet of climbing to arrive at Lewis Mountain Campground. I fill my water bladder at a fountain and enjoy the luxury of a heated bathroom with a flush toilet. I wash my hands with lots of soap in the hot water, reluctant to go back into the gray damp woods, but I still have over 9 miles to my final destination.
An hour later, as I climb he sky starts to clear and rays of sunlight start to peek through, warming the ground that I need to shed my raincoat and gaiters as I climb up a rocky waterlogged trail over Bearfence Mountain. There are no views to be had from the trail, and I don't feel like walking bonus miles to the overlook. I'm just thankful for the respite from the cold wind and rain.
After hiking almost 12 miles, I get tired of slipping constantly on the mud and having no good views so when the trail parallels the road I say "screw it, " and hop onto Skyline Drive. Martian and I were joking yesterday about "dirty yellow blazers," hikers who walk on the roads or even hitchhike to avoid the vagaries of the trail. Guess now I am a dirty yellow blazer then.
This was exactly what I needed to lift my spirits, however, because almost as soon as I get on the road, I am rewarded by sunshine! This is a sign that I did the right thing, for sure. Then, about a half-mile later, I walk to a pull-off with a lovely overlook to the southeast. I am enjoying the scenery in the warm sunlight when I check my cell signal and it's good enough to call home! I check in with my husband, my parents, and even both of my daughters.
I am buoyed by all of these things that all of a sudden my attitude has done a 180 degree turn and I start walking north on Skyline Drive with a little pep in my step. Not even 10 minutes later, a van stops and Wayne sticks his head out of the window! He asks if I would like a ride to Big Meadows Wayside, where he is picking up Non-Stop and Buttercup so he can drive them 8 miles up the road to Skyland Lodge where they are staying the night.
I tell him that I am happy to walk the three miles to Big Meadows now that the sun has come out, and he says he will meet me there on his way back from Skyland. He drives on and about a half-mile later I see the A.T. crosses Skyline Drive once again at Milam Gap, and I hop back on the trail to go back into the woods.
One hour later, I walk up to the Big Meadows Wayside, where I spot Wayne's van. He gets out and opens the lift gate so I can retrieve my big trash bag of belongings. He only charges me $10 for the slackpack since he had to come this way regardless, and I think it's a great deal. I give him my profuse thanks and a big hug and say goodbye to him and his lovely wife.
I decide to sit outside of the wayside so I can stuff my belongings back into my backpack. The grill is open and I decide I can't pass up the opportunity for some fresh, hot food, so a couple agrees to watch my belongings while I go into the wayside. I order a fried chicken dinner and decide to splurge with a tall can of Pabst Blue Ribbon; only the best for this girl!
I think I alarm the couple sitting next to me by how fast I gobble up the fried chicken, not wasting one crumb. The sides of a biscuit, collard greens, and bean salad also go down quickly, but I save the can of beer for a treat later on, after I get my camp in order. I decide to stay at the Big Meadow Campground, where I can really treat myself to running hot water and a flush toilet!
The campground is almost another miles' walk from the wayside, and the office gets me registered quickly. I picked a campsite a stone's throw from the trail, near the main road. I am really surprised at how many campers are here this early in the season! It's Sunday afternoon but you would think it's Saturday, with camper vans everywhere in the huge campground. I am camped next to a family in a monstrously big tent.
I am thrilled to have a bear box at my campsite, and a bathroom is only four sites away. I take off my disgusting shoes and socks and set up my camp in my bare feet, the grass delightfully soft underfoot. I am set up very quickly, and decide to sit in my hammock enjoying the breeze for a little while.
I fill my water bladder in preparation for the next day's hike, and get my breakfast shake ready, setting in in the bear box with my food and trash. I retire to my hammock and sit and read while enjoying the delicious beer. I never in my life thought I could enjoy a Pabst this much!
I'm out by 8:15 pm.
Today's Stats: 17 miles, 3,700 feet elevation gain
Trail Stats: 927 miles, 207K elevation gain, 208K feet loss
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