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Appalachian Trail Day 55 - Bear Garden Hiker Hostel to Chestnut Knob Shelter (Mile 558 to Mile 570)

 I slept until 6 am this morning.  I usually have to get up to water the leaves in the middle of the night, but I woke at 1 am, not in need of visiting the privy, but dying of thirst.  I drank one liter of water and went straight back to bed.  I drank almost four liters of water yesterday, but I guess I really chugged up some of the hills. 

Right before I fell asleep a thru-hiker came in. His name is Leo, and he hiked 22 miles. The thru hikers we are seeing are total beasts.  They wear shorts and t-shirts while we hike in layers of wool and polartec. They hike 20-25 miles per day while we struggle with 12-15. Their backpacks are the size of my pre-school grandsons. They also have voracious appetites and sleep a lot.  Metabolic machines. 

Appalachian Trail Day 54 - Long Neck Lair Hostel to Bear Garden Hiker Hostel (Mile 546 to Mile 558)

 GG and I are up early. The bunkroom was very quiet last night, and the bed was nice and comfy and warm, and I slept quite soundly.  We have little to pack this morning, and only need to eat some breakfast before we head out. I quietly heat some water for coffee and oatmeal before we slip out into the cold dawn.  Timex is awake but Recall is still sleeping. 



Appalachian Trail Day 53 - Partnership Shelter to Long Neck Lair Alpaca Farm- Ram Bunny and Alpacas (Mile 534 to Mile 546)

 We rose at 5 am this morning. The house is super quiet.  We talk quietly about how nice it is to have a big quiet hostel to ourselves, but we really both enjoy hiking closer to the bubble of hikers that hike north in big waves.  We like the camaraderie of a trail family and seeing familiar faces over time.  Not to mention the warmer weather is so wonderful to walk through.  I miss my familiar plant friends, few of which have woken from their winter slumber so early in the season. 

Appalachian Trail Day 52 - Dickey Gap to Partnership Shelter - (Mile 520 to Mile 534)

 GG and I took a short hiatus from the trail to take care of things at home, but we are back for another section.  We made the eight hour drive yesterday. We didn't want to spend more money for a hotel since there are a lot of great hostels in the next section and we are budgeting for those.  So, we parked the truck on the road and walked into the Partnership Shelter, a two-story shelter which is about one-quarter mile from the road, behind the office of the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area. 

We arrived in plenty of time to set up in the shelter and eat dinner.  The weather remains cold and windy, so we each picked opposite corners of the shelter to avoid the occasional frigid wind that blows in.  A few other hikers arrived before bed and they chose to sleep upstairs, so we have the downstairs to ourselves. We were in bed by dark, which is around 8 pm. 

We woke up quite early at 5 am.  We make coffee, but we don't want to pack while the gentlemen are sleeping upstairs, since it may wake them.  We have so much time to spare before our shuttle, I decide to drive into town and get a hot breakfast,  and GG agreed to join me.  So we grab some breakfast burritos and a fresh coffee from McDonald's, which is the only thing open in Atkins, Virginia right now, other than the truck stop. 

I came up with a cockamamie (and slightly complicated) plan for the next week.  I arranged a shuttle with Cole to pick us up at Partnership this morning. Cole was unable to do the shuttle himself, but he will send a friend to take us back to Dickey Gap (mile 520).  We will hike the 15 miles back here tonight, pick up the truck, then drive ahead to Weary Feet Hostel off mile 610, where I will leave my car for the next section.  We will stay at Weary Feet tonight, then get picked up tomorrow by another shuttle driver to bring us back here tomorrow morning to continue on from here north.  Whew! I should get into logistics!

Appalachian Trail Day 51 - Comers Creek Falls to Dickey Gap - TTFN (Mile 519 to Mile 520)

 I had another lovely night on the ground.  I am glad I explored and experimented with it; ground dwelling has some advantages, such as lighter pack weight and easy set-up.  However, I am definitely not ready to give up my hammock just yet!  Although my hammock kit adds an additional pound over the ground sleeping set-up, I think my hammock is much more comfortable, and I appreciate the saddlebag storage and roomy bug net.  I think 16 ounces is a small price to pay for the additional comfort. 




GG and I are up at first light, eating and packing very quickly.  We backtrack to the AT and walk to the base of the falls, where we pick our way over the stream.  Within 30 minutes we are at Dickey Gap.  I turn off airplane mode on my phone, hoping we can call Cole for a pickup, but of course there is zero service here. We start the three mile walk to the truck.  Thankfully it's downhill.  Unfortunately, this road doesn't really have a shoulder, and the strip of grass between the road and a drop off is only feet wide in some spots.  Semi-trucks whiz by at alarming speeds, as do a number of pickup trucks.  No one stops to ask if we want a ride, but that is okay; we only have an hour walk to town.  

We are halfway there when a car passes us going the opposite direction.  It looks like Cole. I can't ask GG because she is up ahead. A few minutes later, the car returns and pulls off on the edge of the road.  Cole jumps out!  He says a friend of his gave him a call to say two older lady backpackers were walking down the road.  I guess everyone in town knows about the crazy women hiking around the highlands in the bad weather!

TTFN!

Today's stats:  One embarrassing mile, 151 feet gain, 150 feet loss

Trail Stats: 520 miles, 130K feet gain





Appalachian Trail Day 50 - Old Orchard Shelter to Comers Creek Falls (Mile 510 to Mile 519)

 March 22 I slept surprising well last night on the ground, which is a remarkable admission from a diehard hammock camper.  I did take some ibuprofen before bed, knowing that the tumbles I took yesterday would cause some aches and pains today.  The one upside to the lower mileage is that my bruised hips are the only thing that hurts; I haven't hiked enough to have sore legs and feet!

 We have no real plans for today.  We are only 10 miles to Dickey Gap, which is where we need to get off the trail in order to walk to Troutdale and pick up my truck.  We originally planned to hike to Partnership Shelter 15 miles further than Dickey Gap this section, but we covered such little ground this week due to the precarious weather and trail conditions, there is no way that is happening. We must return home by tomorrow night, as GG has a trail race next week. She enters them months in advance, and this was a last-minute trip while I had a gap in my schedule.  She was able to accompany me with the caveat that she has time to prepare for her race.

GG and I break camp and sit at the picnic table, where we eat breakfast, and we linger to talk to the couple.  Last night was his first night ever camping, and they really enjoyed the fellowship and campfire, as did we. I say my goodbyes and walk down the trail before GG, as I want to warm up with the effort of walking.



Less than two miles later we arrive at Fox Gap, which we have now driven by several times on our many shuttles with Cole.  We cross the road and Fox Creek on a small footbridge. The creek looks like an inviting spot to soak our feet, but only if it were warmer!

While we walk, we talk of our options. We were planning to walk to Dickey Gap and into Troutdale this afternoon, then brave the traffic around Washington D.C. to get home tonight.  Plan B is to stay on the trail tonight near Dickey Gap, then walk into Troutdale tomorrow morning, where we can get an early start and hopefully pass through DC before the traffic gets bad tomorrow afternoon.  Actually, the traffic is always bad in DC, but it's much less so between 12 and 3 pm. 





GG and I both have an extra day's worth of food, so we agree on Plan B, then consult our apps.  There is a waterfall about one mile before Dickey Gap with a side trail that offers a small campsite above the falls next to a stream.  The comments in the Far Out app report that it's beautiful place to camp, so we decide to check it out. 

The hike is lovely, as is the weather.  I know it's too early, but I look for morel mushrooms anyway, as these woods look like the perfect environment for the tasty fungi.  I focus on the southern-facing, sun warmed patches of woods to no avail . I play music and dance around, enjoying the freedom and beauty of the trail. GG and I play hopscotch over the miles; she hikes ahead, and I pass her for a while, then she passes me when I take a break. We cross over lots of streams via bridges and rock-hopping. 





The miles pass quickly, and we soon come to the blue-blazed side trail leading to the right, straight up the hill.  We huff up the trail, which parallels the falls and then follows the stream above the falls. After only a quarter mile, we spot a flat site next to the stream.  It's very small but will easily fit GG's tent and my tarp.  GG lets me pick a spot first, since I need two trees to hang my tarp.  I'm tempted to legit cowboy camp under the stars without the tarp, but I get a false sense of security by being under my tarp, always worried some unexpected rainstorm will appear out of nowhere. 

We enjoy our last night of this small section in the woods. We have really made some memories on this hike, weather notwithstanding!  Actually, the weather will contribute to the memories. I fall asleep to the sound of the rushing water. 

Today's Stats: 9 miles, 1500 feet gain, 2440 feet loss

Trail Stats: 519 Miles, 130K feet ascent






Appalachian Trail Day 49 - Wise Shelter to Old Orchard Shelter - Ponies and a Campfire! (Mile 504 to Mile 510)

 We woke before dawn after a fitful night's sleep. No coyotes howled, fortunately, however the wind was wicked. Every time I started to drift off into a nice, deep sleep, Bam! The wind would blast in through the  front of the shelter. Nothing like a cold face full of wind to wake one up. I think I woke up at least 20 times last night.  The temperature is so cold that I make breakfast and hot tea and get back in my down to enjoy it. 

Snug in my bed inside Wise Shelter