I stretch and walk to the pond to see if there are any moose, which there aren't of course, but it was worth a try. The air is chilly but the sky is clear and it looks like it will be a beautiful day.
My main objective today is to get to Harrison's Pierce Pond Camp, a lodge that is friendly to hikers and famed for its huge blueberry pancake breakfasts. If I want to indulge in the breakfast tomorrow I have to reserve a spot today. There's a limited number of spots, but because of my extra miles yesterday I should easily make it on the list because it's only six miles away.
I take my time packing up, wishing that I packed an extra breakfast for this morning. I save time each morning by not eating a hot breakfast. Instead, I pre-mix protein powder, instant coffee, chia and flax seed that I can drink while I'm hiking. Then I realized that I remember that I have some instant coffee packets in the bear can. I also have honey, which isn't my sweetener of choice in my morning coffee, but I am in the wilderness after all!
I sit in my hammock and heat the water and enjoy my first cup of hot coffee in camp in a year, other than the morning in Upper Goose Pond, and the time Carrot Cake shared some of his coffee with me at Captain Stash's house in Vermont. I forgot how delightful it is to just sit and watch the woods wake up with a hot cup of coffee.
Energized by the hot coffee, I finish packing as the rising sun starts to take a little chill out of the air, and I am on the trail at 7 A.M..
The trail is pretty flat for the first couple miles and I make really good time, even with constantly having to step over and around roots and rocks, and walking through a bog. After three miles the trail starts to ascend slightly for what will be my only real elevation gain at one time today; a whopping 600 feet!
At the four mile mark I'm making such good time on this easy trail that I realize I could very easily make it to the Kennebec River crossing before the ferry shuts down at 2:00 p.m.. I would have to skip the Pierce Pond Lodge, but the idea of getting into town a day early and not having to worry about food is extremely appealing. I turn off airplane mode and I'm thrilled to see that I have one bar. I call Dad and let him know I think I can make it to Caratunk today. He is going to move up my hotel reservation to tonight.
A short while later I am stopped on the side of the trail for a breakfast of anything left in my bear can. It looks like beef sticks and cheese along with a couple of sweet bell peppers for breakfast! While I'm finishing up Dad calls back and says he changed my reservation and asks if I would like to zero tomorrow and sit out the rain in the hotel room.
As appealing as it sounds, I'm eager to get done with this section and get to Monson so that I can be home in time for my birthday next week, and I'm dying to see my family. I haven't seen anyone except Dad for the last 3 weeks, so I pass on the zero tomorrow. There's a shelter only 6 miles from Caratunk where I can ride out the rain. I can Nero there and it'll give me a head start on the next day's hike.
I throw on my pack and hear two men coming up fast behind me. I'm surprised to see Doctor Silvercrotch and his silent sidekick.
"Good morning, Trash Panda," he says in greeting. Of course, Mr. Silent doesn't say anything word; actually, he doesn't even acknowledge my existence. Conversely, Dr. Silvercrotch is very amiable and the exact opposite.
I'm surprised to see them; I thought they would be at the next shelter and eating the pancake breakfast this morning. Somehow they got behind me. They camped at West Carry Pond Shelter where I stopped yesterday afternoon. They motor on twice as fast as me, so I say farewell. I can't believe that I did three miles more than they did yesterday!
The trail remains fairly easy the next mile, and I think at this rate, I will be at the Kennebec before noon. Just when I get in a comfortable pace, able to walk a normal stride, a hot mess of roots and rocks pop up, but I still make good time.
I pass by and cross several dry stream beds, but there is one really nice spot where the water is still flowing. This would have been a beautiful spot to camp last night but there's no way I could have done 19 miles yesterday! The good news is that because of the easier terrain, my knees and Achilles are recovering from the rough mountains of the last three weeks, they are less tender today and the least sore since entering the Whites. I haven't even thought of taking ibuprofen today!
Six miles into my hike, the trail passes by the Pierce Pond Lean-to and I walk down to get a picture of the gorgeous pond. A boat is tied to a nearby dock, which must belong to the lodge. This looks like a wonderful area for a picnic lunch, but not for me today.
I get back onto the trail and a minute later I am at the bank of the Pierce Pond Stream, which is wider than most streams I've crossed without a bridge. There aren't any visible rocks to walk across, which means I will need to ford the stream. I don't have water shoes and the I can see some sharp rocky edges under the clear water. I debate on crossing in my hiking shoes, but the thought of hiking in soaking wet shoes does not excite me. I check out the comments and realize I can take a blue-blazed trail that goes to Harrison's Lodge, where there is a bridge crossing the stream. I head in that direction and I'm so glad I did because I get a beautiful view of the cascades below the pond.
I am back on the A.T. only a quarter-mile later and then hike along the stream as it makes its way to join the Kennebec River three miles away. without a doubt this is one of my favorite stretches of trail so far on the entire A.T.. I absolutely walking along the cascades and through the thick spruce forest blanketed by a carpet of moss and ferns, even if the roots are a pain in the tush.
A mile later my love for this trail comes to a screeching halt. The roots and rocks get a little crazy and my pace is slowed way down for the next mile and a half. The roots become so thick and twisted that I struggle to step flatly on anything, and my Achilles starts nagging me with pain again. In addition, my left foot is bruised where I got it stuck between a couple rocks yesterday and the constant pounding on the sharp edges is really irritating the sole.
I am getting close to the Kennebec and navigating a very steep and slippery dirt path when my phone rings. It's Dad and he's letting me know that he is on the far bank, waiting for me to cross. I let him know that I will be there shortly, thinking I still have a little ways to go. I'm surprised when as soon as I hang up I round a corner and see that I am on the river!
Silvercrotch and his moody hiking buddy are crossing the river in the canoe with the ferry operator. The trip takes only a few minutes, and I barely have time to grab some cash from my pack for a tip before the ferryman is back to pick me up. He hands me a life vest and tells me I have to sign a release form before I can cross. I sign the form that says the ATC is not responsible if I die on the journey, and I don the life vest and help paddle across the river because of the wind. The trip is quick and smooth. The water looks deep even at these low levels and I can't imagine anyone wanting to cross in this chilly water.
A few minutes later I am on the other side. Dad is Facetiming my mom, and she takes a screenshot of my arrival. I give Dad a hug and we go to Wolf's Lodge a few minutes away for lunch, where we met our friends Melissa and Pat a few days ago. We share chicken wings and I eat a monstrous cheesesteak sub and a ton of delicious hand cut fries.
Absolutely stuffed to the seams, we head back to the hotel so I can shower and start to prepare for my next adventure tomorrow. A couple hours later I get a text message from Melissa saying that dad left his wallet at the restaurant. It's almost dinner time so we decide to eat there again once we drive back!
We return to the hotel and I rub Voltaren on my aching feet and elevate my tired legs on a pile of pillows before turning in for the night.
Today's Stats: 9.9 miles, 689 feet ascent
Trail Stats: 2,047 miles, 421K feet ascent
Miles to Katahdin: 147
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