I get caught up on the news and drink some coffee in the process. I'm not planning on going very far today and I'm in the mood for a chill morning. So many times the town days turn into a crazy hurry to get back to the trail, but today I want this feeling of relaxation to continue.
I hang my tarp which is still wet from yesterday's rain across the posts in front of the motel room. Hopefully nobody notices since it so early, and it shouldn't take too long for it to dry.
I've eaten quite a bit this morning, and at 8 I go to Dad's room to let him know that I am ready. He has another breakfast ready for me. There is no way I'm going to lose weight on this section with him pumping me full of food at every opportunity!
We drive an hour to Maine Route 27 where Dad picked me up yesterday. On the way we can get some beautiful views of Sugarloaf and the Bigelows, which I will be climbing up today.
I wave goodbye to Dad and hit the trail at 9. The weather today is 70's in the valley, but right now it's in the 50's and a cool breeze is blowing, and it is chilly in the shade of the trees.
The trail starts out relatively level with some easy ups for the first couple of miles. I pass a stream and decide to get a little more water for the hike up, since the next water source is in four miles and 2,000 feet climb up to the North Horn.
A short way up the trail I pass the 2,000 mile marker! At this point I'm actually at mile 2,013 so this was the 2,000 mile point at some time in the past. The trail length actually changes year by year because of reroutes. I take a celebratory picture since I was in fear of dying two days ago when I crossed this year's 2,000 mile point coming down Sugarloaf on the rocky screen slope.
The hike up the Bigelows is absolutely gorgeous. It is a little challenging in a couple spots, but I don't mind it at all. The spruce trees are tall and moss covers giant towering boulders. This is like a fairyland forest; very mystical and old.
Just before reaching the first view today, I see a familiar face. His name is Rod Stewart and I met him about a month ago down the trail, bit neither of us can remember where. I'm think it's Vermont or lower New Hampshire. When at the view, I pull up PeakFinder and it shows that we can see the tip of Katahdin from here, which is really incredible because it's 160 trail miles away!
I pull on my fleece hoodie because it is cold up here! Not far from the first view I come to another one that looks down into Horns Pond, and I can see people gathered on the edge of the pond, and people are swimming in it! Good gravy, it must be freezing!!
The trail descends towards the pond and at lean-to at least a dozen colleged-aged kids are in and around the shelter. They are part of a Tufts University orientation group camping out for the weekend, and they certainly seem to be enjoying themselves!
Immediately leaving the pond, I start up to the first of the five peaks comprising the Bigelows. The hike up the South Horn of Bigelow is really steep (633 feet over a half mile), and the wind is really blowing and cold. I consider stopping to put on a wind layer but decide against it until I get to the top because I don't want to get drenched in sweat. As I start descending I get a beautiful view of Saddleback and Sugarloaf Mountains, and see the North Peak of Bigelow which looks really tall from here.
While descending, I hear a familiar voice with a distinct southern accent walking towards me. Around the corner I see Planet Caravan hiking with Rapunzel! They are doing a southbound slackpack, and I realize this will probably be the last time I see them because they're planning on an 18 mile day tomorrow, so they will be way ahead of me.
The climb up the third Bigelow Peak, West Peak, is a little challenging but after New Hampshire it's fairly easy. I think it's funny that before New Hampshire I would have thought this kind of a hike was nuts, but now it's just ho-hum and interesting. The wind is howling from the southwest and it's cold.
I summit the West Peak (4,145 feet altitude) and stunned by the views. I can just barely see Mount Washington to the south, and to the north I can see Mount Katahdin. I can also see some very dark clouds overhead. I don't think I'll get any rain but I need to get down off this mountain just in case.
I still have one more peak before heading off the high ridge. Avery Peak is lower than West Peak, at 4,088 feet altitude, and the hike up is much easier.
From here the campsite is only two miles away but almost 2,000 feet of knee-pounding descent. I only have one more mountain to hike this week and then it'll be flatter ground until the Hundred Mile Wilderness and Katahdin. I hope my knees and my achilles heal once I finish all of this elevation change.
The dense spruce woods are getting really dark when I reach the turn off for the Safford Notch Campsite. The hike is really amazing; to reach it you have to go through woods filled with big boulders covered in moss and go through a cave! Thankfully it's nothing like Mahoosuc Notch and I don't have to take off my pack to crawl through it.
The campsite is spread over a wide distance with two streams at either end of the campsite. There are a ton of people here and I wander around looking for a nice suitable spot in the dimming light. I even pass by Rod Stewart, who says hi from his hammock.
I finally wander towards the back spring, where I see the Madison tramily. They probably think I'm stalking them, the way I show up after they are set up. I keep seeing the same through hikers over and over, which means we're all doing about the same mileage per day which makes me feel good about my efforts.
There's really no room here and I should probably go back to the other side of the campsite, but I am so tired and hungry and it's getting dark. I set up my hammock in probably the worst spot I've ever set up in my life; on the edge of a hill and next to a ton of small trees that will probably poke me all night, but I don't care at this point. The Bigelows really whooped me.
I get set up and by the time I eat and filter water the sun has set and it's 8:00. Everyone else is already tucked in their tent by the time I get in my hammock. I am out like a light in no time at all.
Today's Stats: 10.5 miles, 4,100 feet gain
Trail Stats: 2,020 miles, 417K feet gain
Miles to Katahdin: 174
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