We wake bright and early, full of excitement. Today we are leaving SMNP and heading to Standing Bear Farm. The thought of a hot shower, clean clothes, and some treats can really lift the spirits. At breakfast, I tell the other hikers about the firefly display the evening before. Apparently I was the only witness to the show. We filter water and load our packs and hit the trail as the sun peeks through the trees.
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| Reishi mushrooms |
Today is really light on the inclines (only 1300'), but going to be brutal on our knees. We have to descend 4400' downhill to get to our next stop. I will be hitting the Vitamin I (ibuprofen) today for sure.
The heat is rising as we go over Mt. Cammerer at 5,000' elevation, this is the last mountain to climb in SMNP, and the last time we will get above 5,000 feet of elevation for another 85 miles. We skip the side trail to Mt Cammerer, which I will regret, as it's supposed to be "one of the most worthwhile side trips on the A.T." as I read later in my Far Out app. We start our long, 8-mile descent, and have gorgeous views on the way down. A short way down, I am hiking by myself when I almost stepped on a rattlesnake!! The snake was doing what snakes do, and sunning itself in a little patch of sunlight right in the middle of the trail. My adrenaline was jumping as I watched a really pissed off juvenile shake it's tail for what seemed like a very long time, but in reality was a few minutes. Juveniles are more dangerous than adults because they have less control over their venom release and will dump it all in one bite. I am in the lead of the hikers coming off the mountain, so I wait for GG and a big group of hikers to come down so no one accidentally treads on the snake. The video is below. Hopefully I uploaded it correctly :-)
After a couple snack stops, we pass Davenport Gap shelter, which is downhill and to the left of the trail. We can just make out the roof from this angle. This shelter is renowned for the most bear sightings of any shelter in SMNP. The bears are so bad, in fact, that food hangs are prohibited outside of the shelter. The food must remain in the shelter, where a chain link fence surrounds the shelter in order to protect campers from aggressive bear incursions. Talk about feeling like a fish in a fishbowl!
One mile after the shelter we see the sign and permit box marking the northern boundary of SMNP! What an accomplishment! The Smokies are not easy to hike whatsoever, but the park has been so beautiful. The pristine scenery and all the wildlife, big and small, have made it quite an adventure. We place our permits in the box and continue on down the trail .
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| Placing my permit in the box leaving SMNP |
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| A pretty waterfall |
We cross over a creek at the base of a decent sized waterfall. Just around the corner we can make out a road at the bottom of some steps. A car is waiting with the lift gate open, and some people are milling about. Could this be trail magic!? It is!! A wonderful couple is picking up their section-hiking daughter and kindly brought some treats. I take an apple and also accept a banana when they encourage me to take all I want. Fresh fruits and veggies are my most craved foods on the trail. I wash it down with an ice-cold Powerade. Even though we hiked mostly downhill, the temps are in the mid-eighties and I need some electrolytes.
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| Trail Magic |
We give our thanks and continue on. Less than 2 miles to go for the day! The Pigeon River is visible from the trail magic. Walking over the bridge, we are greeted by the sight of several rafts paddling down the river. The paddlers are whooping and waving as they cross under the bridge. I would love to take a dip in the cool water, but we're so close to the next stop, I power on.
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| Rafters on the Pigeon River |
We walk beneath I-40 and just like that we are off the road and back on a real trail. Almost immediately, my forward progress is stopped by a fallen tree blocking the trail. The tree isn't big, however the branches in all directions will make this difficult. The topography is such that we can't go up or downhill to walk around it. I take off my pack and somehow make it through the tree. GG needs some help, as she has so many things attached to her pack that she has more things to get stuck on tree limbs.
Thirty minutes later we see a sign for Standing Bear Farm and veer off the trail onto a road which runs parallel. The farm is a collection of buildings that resembles a small village spread out amongst the trees. There is quite a lot of activity, with hikers walking about and children laughing and playing. We are directed to a house to check in. It's warm enough at night that we plan to camp rather than sleep in an unconditioned bunkhouse. The woman running the farm points us toward the camping area to the right of the house. There is a camp store in one building, a kitchen cabin with attached laundry, a bunkhouse, and a separate bath house. A lovely stream runs between the property and the gravel road. We find our camping spot and start setting up next to a stand alone covered porch with a swing.
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| The camp kitchen and laundry |
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| A rental cabin straddling the stream |
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| My shoes need some airing out |
We are given a piece of paper and pen to write down our purchases. Many hostels use an honor system and take cash or have a Venmo QR code to transfer money. The shower and laundry is included. We still have food from Newfound Gap, so the only thing I purchase is a couple of hard ciders. I put them in the creek next to my camp while I wash in one of the coolest showers on the trail. The shower is inside a cabin and made of tile mosaic. With the windows open and the breeze blowing I feel like I'm outside.
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I love this shower!
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After shower, the next town chore is laundry. The laundry room consists of one electric dryer. There is an old-fashioned washboard in the sink. I guess we're doing this the old-fashioned way, then. We fill the sink with soapy water and start agitating our clothes with our hands. The water quickly gets clouded with dirt, so it takes me three or four washings and wringings before the clothes are clean enough for the dryer.
GG and I sit on the porch for dinner. Children are playing and painting with the help of a hiker. Another hiker pulls out a guitar and we have a sing along. This is a fun and relaxing way to celebrate getting out of SMNP. We have hiked 175 miles without a full day off, but these occasional respites from the trail keep us going. The trail is so much more than a hiking and camping adventure and deprivation. The Appalachian Trail experience is really about community and learning to slow down to enjoy the little things in life that bring joy and peace.
Todays Stats: 10.4 miles, 1300' elevation gain
Section Stats: 163 miles, 41k elevation gain
Trail Stats: 241 miles, 58k elevation gain
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