An hour later, we are chugging back up the hill toward the Appalachian Trail. Unfortunately the almost half-mile hike doesn't count in the days' mileage. We call these "bonus miles." In addition to the mileage walked on the AT daily, hikers can easily rack up an extra 1-3 bonus miles per day. While many shelters and water sources are literally on the trail, many more are not. Shelters and water are frequently a quarter mile off trail. Very often, once we get to camp, we have to take multiple side trails to water, bear boxes and bear cables, and the privy. Not to mention the bonus miles one may need to take in order to find a private spot to water the leaves throughout the day. I need to be more conscientous of my bonus miles and practice conservation of movement when I am at camp.
Once we get to the AT, our hearts are pumping and the day is warming up. I usually keep some layers on until the sun gets high enough to warm the air, but the hike today was more than enough to get us warmed up quickly. My pack is fairly light today, as I have little food and water to carry. I have one days' food for today, with some snacks for tomorrow morning, as we will resupply tomorrow afternoon. I'm carrying just one liter of water, since the next shelter is five miles a way, with water near the shelter.
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| A hazy morning |
We play leapfrog with a group of four men section hiking GMNP, two of which have never backpacked before. They left the shelter before us, but GG and I pass two of them before we get to the next stop. Their packs are huge, like 65 liters stuffed to the brim, as well as tents and stuff sacks attached to the outside of the pack.
Have I mentioned how much I hate it when people strap things to the outside of the pack? I don't know why I let it get to me. After all, I'm not the one carrying all that stuff. I just think that one should carry what will fit inside of the pack, or get a bigger pack. Nothing screams inexperienced backpacker more than crud swinging off a pack. I really feel for these guys, because they will have a miserable experience by carrying a lot of unnecessary things, in a backpack that is way too big, especially in these mild conditions. This is why so many people are one and done with backpacking.
We arrive at Tri-Corner Knob Shelter (elevation 5887') in time for an early lunch. We hiked over three small hills, gaining 1200' over the last five miles. The sun is dappling the small clearing beside the shelter, and I take all my stuff out of my pack and spread it around a rocky spot next to the shelter to air out while we eat and filter water from the stream that runs right in front of the shelter. The air this morning was very humid and my sleeping gear was damp when I packed it up. There are a lot of hikers from this morning stopping for lunch. We squeeze around the one picnic table, and more hikers are perched on the sleeping platform inside the shelter.
My usual lunch is a pouch of tuna or salmon mixed with a small pack of mayo and a pack of relish on a high fiber tortilla. My hiker hunger is starting to kick in, and I also eat some Cheetos and a protein bar, as well as some jerky that one of the other hikers offer the group. Meal time is a great way to get rid of some extra food! After a very leisurely hour-long lunch, I reluctantly stuff everything back into my pack. I would love to spend some time laying in the warm sun in the grassy clearing, but we have miles and miles before we sleep!
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| Azaleas in bloom |
The trail climbs straight up from Tri-Corner Knob Shelter, but the rest of the way is downhill for the next 8 miles. The sun is shining brightly and I have to stop and apply sunscreen. The AT is frequently referred to as the "big green tunnel" because most of the trail is covered by tall tree foliage, dotted with bare patches. I don't bother carrying sunglasses because they aren't necessary for 90% of the trail. Today is an exception, and I would love a pair today. The sun is on my left, west of the ridge, and I am sweating buckets as I descend a section of trail that is covered in small rocks, almost scree. I'm making good time as I pass one of the four backpackers. He looks worn out and downright downtrodden. "Don't give up, we are almost there!" I say as I pass him.
Less than an hour later I see GG waiting at the sign for Cosby Knob Shelter. Since getting lost a few days back, she has been staying closer to me when we hike, but when she wants to stretch her legs and go ahead, she waits for me at trail and road crossings. The side trail to the shelter is very short, and the shelter is just to our right. No big trek down to the shelter today! The water is a spring literally steps from the shelter. No bonus miles for water!
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| A weird stone that looks like a knife |
The first thing I do is drop my pack, change to my camp shoes, and scope out the area around the shelter for a suitable hammock spot. Most of the time, this is going to be in the area set aside for tents, because the underbrush is cleared out. I have the benefit of not needing a level site - I just need two trees that are the right distance apart. The distance is a minimum of 13 feet and up to 20 feet. That's the maximum line I have on my tarp and hammock.
I find a good spot and set up near GG. More people are arriving as we set up and soon there are easily over 20 people spread between the camping area and in the shelter, with more coming in the waning light. We talk with other campers for an hour while preparing dinner. The excitement of heading out of the park is palpable. Getting out of SMNP is another big accomplishment to check off our list. We are looking forward to looser camping regulations, as well as less congestion on the trail. Additionally, while the bears don't magically disappear once we leave the Smokies, they tend to be a little less visible because they are hunted outside of the park, making them more wary of people.
Everyone is drifting off to sleep and I am reading when I start noticing little flickers of light dotting the area around the tents. Fireflies! When we were at Fontana Village, Croft mentioned she really wanted to see fireflies, as she has never seen them before. I grew up in Pennsylvania and the midwest, playing with fireflies in the summer. They were so prolific and I never thought twice about their presence. A very small part of my life that I now know I have taken for granted, like countless other things.
The twinkling of the lights intensifies, as more of the insects join the party. I wish Croft were here to see the display. There are so many things I am experiencing I wish I could share with friends and loved ones. I am so happy to be out here, taking in what nature is offering. I hope I could bottle this entire experience.
Good Night!
Todays stats: 13 miles; 2700' elevation gain
Section stats: 162 miles; 40,000' elevation gain
Trail Stats: 231 miles, 57k feet elevation gain
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