I slept really well last night! The shed is unconditioned and uninsulated, but I was toasty warm in my down quilts. My little thermometer says it is now 52F, which isn't too cold for camping weather. After all, I sleep best when the nighttime temps are in the 40's. I lost one of my earplugs during the night, and the road noise starts to increase in intensity until I finally get up at 6:30 am.
I pack up and head to the main house for coffee and breakfast, when a woman pokes her head out of the shed next door. She is a south-bounder who started in Harpers Ferry at the end of July, about 6 weeks ago. Beth brings out fresh homemade waffles and muffins, and serves a cantaloupe she picked fresh from her garden for our breakfast! Satiated and ready for the trail, I say goodbye and make my way back to where I got off yesterday.
Within minutes I am walking underneath I-81 when I am greeted by a sign stating this is the 1/3 mark of the trail! Slowly I am making progress! This is the last time I will cross this interstate on my hike, which I will not miss whatsoever. This road is loud and really detracts from the peace of the trail.
The trail leaves the road and starts to increase in elevation, winding through some grassy fields before returning to the woods. I come across three southbound thru-hikers. I stop to talk to the three young women, who met on the trail. They are going to the same hostel I just left from, and I tell them they won't be disappointed! I tell them the outdoor shower is a 10 out of 10, and they excitedly chatter as they continue down the trail. I have now met 7 Sobo hikers, with 5 of them being women! I think this speaks loads for how safe women feel overall on the trail.
I am really hungry by the time I stop at the Fullhardt Knob Shelter for lunch. I don't like to eat a lot when I am hiking uphill, since I find it hard to eat while I'm breathing hard from effort, so I always wait for the crest of the hill to eat, so my food will digest on the way back downhill. The shelters are so eerily quiet this time of the year; so unlike the spring and summer, when there is almost a hiker or two (or ten!) lounging around the area.
The trail down from the shelter follows an old logging road which makes for easy hiking. I look at the FarOut app to plan my water stops today. The water sources are very scarce and unreliable in this section. I flip through the most recent comments, and see that I will need to stock up at the next stream crossing. In addition to the 10 pounds of food I am carrying, I will have to carry 8 pounds of water. Needless to say, my pack is going to be very heavy.
I take advantage of the nice stream to take the time to soak my feet. The water is cold and clear, and before long I receive quite the pedicure from the numerous small minnows that nibble on my feet and toes. The fish tickle my feet and I really enjoy this beautiful spot.
As I leave the creek, I slip and take a hard fall onto a large rock with a triangular point of rock sticking up. The meat of my right butt cheek lands squarely on the point. Tears of pain spring from my eyes and I just lay there for a second before I rub the tender spot. It's not bleeding, but boy, does it hurt! I must be more alert and careful; I certainly don't want to get hurt out in the middle of nowhere by myself!
I decide to stop at Wilson Creek Shelter for dinner. This would be a great place to hang my hammock, but I am thoroughly creeped out by being the only one staying at the shelter. I don't know why, but with no other people here, I think I would rather stealth camp in the woods. I heat the water in my camp stove, and enjoy my freeze-dried dinner of Chicken Teriyaki at the picnic table while looking at the map to figure out where I may want to head for the night.
A backpacker-friendly campground is located 18 miles from here. If I hike a few more miles tonight, I could make it to the campground tomorrow night.
I call home to let my husband know I am safe but I am going to hike until dark. He isn't too happy about me night hiking, and I tell him I am not planning on hiking after dark tonight, since I am happy to do hike only 15 miles today. I have at least an hour before full dark. I am feeling energized after eating a large meal as I head up the trail.
I enter the Blue Ridge proper, where a sign states the next section of AT is maintained by Natural Bridge ATC. A blue haze covers the mountains, lending to the name, but the mountains look the same as they have in all of southern Appalachia. The high humidity makes the mountains look a little smoky on all but the most crisp of days, when a high pressure system is usually the only thing that makes the mountains stand out in start relief from the sky.
At 7:15 pm darkness is falling swiftly and I need to look for a spot to set up my camp. I hear a car and realize I am at Black Horse Gap. I read the comments and the first one states "Warning! Two men tried to break into my car here at 2 am, while I was inside!" So, I don't want to be near the road. That's a given with backpacking, anyway. Camping spots near roads tend to attract ne'er do wells and partners, anyone knows this. Thankfully, the trail continues uphill, and everyone knows only real backpackers will hike up a hill, so I will be safe if I continue up and put some distance between me and the parking lot!
Unfortunately, the land slopes away sharply on either side of the trail, so I continue walking. The steep slopes disappear and thick rhododendron takes its place. On I must go. The trail crests the ridge, and the rhododendron gives way to a delightfully flat expanse of woods dominated by tall trees and and open understory with lots of soft ferns. This is the spot!
I walk some way off the AT via a game trail. My tarp is camouflage, so I will blend in to the scenery, but this wood is so open that I will stand out like a sore thumb. I find a small clearing surrounded by rhododendron, which will shield me perfectly.
I set up and review my hike via the FarOut app. I knew I hiked almost 14 miles, but I am surprised to see I gained over 3600 feet in elevation! I give myself a pat on the back and read for a little before going to sleep.
Today's Stats: 13.6 miles, 3652 feet elevation gain, 2680 feet loss
Trail Stats: 745 miles, 164K elevation gain
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