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Appalachian Trail Day 106 - Peter's Mountain Shelter to Rausch Creek Campsite (Mile 1161 to Mile 1180)

For all the people camping here last night, it was extremely quiet. Or maybe I was just extremely tired. I awake at 5:15 To see that Kelly is already packing. She makes breakfast while I pack up and we are done at the same time. We are on the trail 6 am.  

The ridge is really easy hiking, and the miles just go by. We reach an overlook with a small flat area nearby.  This is where we were going to stop last night, but after getting here I'm glad we stopped where we did, although it means we have a few extra miles to do today. 

I am alert for rattlesnakes as they have been reported pretty much every day on this rocky ledge, but it's still chilly this morning, so they must still be snug in their little snake beds. We get back on the trail and start descending from the ridge, already walking three miles in the last hour.

We descend into a really lovely valley filled with tall pine trees and ferns.  Near the bottom we crisscross a stream and stop to get water.  Kelly finds a glass drinking cup decorated with cute little mushrooms on it next to a tree, filled with water.  We scratch our heads over why someone would bring a real glass into the wilderness, but we can't leave it here; leave no trace principles mean we need to pack out things that don't belong in the woods.  Kelly decides it will be a great souvenir, so she places it in her pack carefully. 


Appalachian Trail Day 105 - Duncannon to Peter's Mountain Shelter (Mile 1150 to Mile 1161)

We have to reposition our vehicles, so we are on the trail a little later than usual.  At 9am we walk from the Doyle to the trail, only one block away. The white blazes lead us for a mile down a quiet, pretty residential street that runs through the town. A couple small signs along the way discuss the history of Duncannon. 



Leaving town, we walk along a very busy road that crosses the Juniata River via a bridge. We miss the blaze for the pedestrian bridge and get on the wrong side of the bridge.  We walk on the narrow shoulder into oncoming traffic, hugging the cement wall of the bridge whenever traffic comes whizzing by. Thankfully the walk across the Susquehanna River is short, and we are quickly back on the trail and climbing up the ridge, leaving the noise and hustle and bustle of civilization behind.


Appalachian Trail Day 104 - Darlington Shelter to Duncannon (Mile 1138 to Mile 1150)

I had a rough night last night.  I was very comfortable in my hammock, but I woke up around two o'clock in the morning and my mind was whizzing and I just couldn't could settle down, so I sat in my hammock and looked at FarOut and came up with a game plan for resupplies and did some Sudoku.  I was finally able to fall back asleep around three.

I had my alarm set off to go at 5:15, but I pushed it off and fell back asleep.  I was laying there in and out of consciousness for a minute then bolted away because today's a town day! This is no time to relax; this is time to get going so I can get some good food, a shower, and do laundry.  Kelly is also awake bright and early and we hit the trail as the sun rises over the ridge.

Appalachian Trail Day 103 - Alec Kennedy shelter to Darlington Shelter (Mile 1120 to Mile 1138)

I am awake At 5 am. Unfortunately the rain is pitter-pattering on my tarp when I wake up.  It rained all night and I was negligent, not closing the doors to my tarp before I went to bed. I really didn't think I needed to because of the dense canopy of trees overhead and the lack of wind. Because of my laxity, I now have a considerable amount of splashback on everything under my tarp. 

Everything under my hammock Is covered with a little bits of grit and little pieces of bark.  The rain must have really come down at some point to create this amount of splash. Live and learn, I suppose. 

Quickly, I realize trying to clean up this mess in the dark and while it's raining is going to be futile.  Normally, I would pack under my tarp, but because of the mess I decide to pack on the corner of the shelter apron. I transfer all of my belongings from under my tarp to a small section of the shelter porch that is protected by the overhang of the roof.

No one is stirring inside the shelter, and I certainly would not want the light of my headlamp to wake anyone, so I mind the direction of my headlamp while I gather my belongings. Between trying to keep my belongings dry from the rain, and trying to pack in the dark without being able to see, the process of packing takes me significantly longer than usual. 

I finish packing and as I leave the shelter area people are starting to stir and get up to use the facilities. The minute I return to the white blazes of the Appalachian Trail, the rain stops, but I don't stop to take off my rain gear because I'm much warmer with it on.  I am eager to get going because Boiling Springs is a short four miles down the trail.  I am meeting Kelly there this morning at a cafe, where I will also grab some breakfast. 


Appalachian Trail Day 102 - Pine Grove Furnace State Park to Alec Kennedy Shelter (Mile 1105 to Mile 1120)

Getting off the trail to visit family last night was just what I needed. I went to bed about 8:30 last night and woke very refreshed at about 4:30 this morning.  I packed until Marlene scratched on my door to let me know that she was awake. I sat with her and we had coffee and homemade zucchini bread before I hugged Marlene and Terry goodbye at 7 am.

I drive an hour to drop off my vehicle at the Doyle Hotel in downtown Duncannon.  My shuttle driver arrives promptly at 8:30, and I am deposited back at Pine Grove Furnace State Park, where I am on the trail at 9:30.


Right before I leave the parking lot, a woman hiker walks by me and we start chatting.  Her name is Sundance and she started her Appalachian Trail Journey 19 years ago.  She is now newly retired and day hiking the trail with the help of her husband, who drives their camper from place to place while she hikes.  She is slack packing all the way to Maine. 

Appalachian Trail day 101 - Quarry Gap shelter To Pine Grove Furnace State Park (Mile 1088 to Mile 1105)

Not surprisingly, I wake pretty frequently starting at 2 am.  I had some really crazy dreams involving driving in circles inside a shopping mall that took up most of the trail estate in DC, and trying to get out so I could get home. Very weird. Anyway, I  get up at 4:15 a.m. for the day. 

I am really surprised to find that no one else came in the shelter throughout the night and I am by myself.  I  am packed in no time and filter some water for my morning breakfast shake, which I chug down before I leave. I want to stay extra hydrated and nourished today so I can do the mileage in a decent amount of time. 

It's not raining, but I know I'm going to be brushing against a lot of wet foliage, plus I'm not sure of what the weather is going to do, so I don my rain gear before slipping into my delightfully wet and cold socks and shoes. 




I hike immediately up a hill, gaining about 600 feet of elevation, which makes me nice and toasty warm. I have great cell phone reception so I call home to say good morning to my husband.  The sun rises to my right, but the trees occlude any good view of it.  The song "Good Morning Starshine" pops into my head, as it always does when I see a sunrise.



The hike is relatively easy and I feel like I'm cruising down the trail.  Little red-spotted salamanders are loving the rain and like to hang out in the middle of the trail.  The occasional frog hops in front of me. Before long I am at Birch Run Shelter, almost eight miles from Quarry Gap. I feel really good today.  I've been eating frequently this morning and drinking a lot of water. 

I pass the empty shelter, closed because of a recent bat infestation which then produced a bat bug infestation.  Apparently,  they are very similar to bed bugs. If you want to clear out a shelter really quickly,  just say bed bugs!  I don't even go near the shelter, despite the rain.  



A short way past the shelter I go to check on one of my favorite little hidden campsites along the trail.  I'm walking down the side trail when I trip on something and go flying forward. My phone flies out of my hand,  as do my hiking poles.  Thankfully I braced my fall with my left arm and I don't think I'm really hurt,  but I am definitely shaken.  

My watch starts this terrible noise. It says it detected a fall and it's going to trigger a call.  I'm scrambling to figure out how to stop the noise while I'm trying to get my breath.



I figure out how to silence the alarm. That would not be good if my family got a message that I fell while I'm out of cell phone service. My mother would have a great attack. I carefully evaluate the damage. I landed on something sharp on my left butt cheek. The skin wasn't punctured, but I'm going to have one hell of a bruise. My left elbow is really sore.  I think I hyperflexed it. Ugh, that's going to ache tomorrow.

The hidden campsite was definitely not worth the fall.  It's not at all like it used to be; with chairs of cut logs and tables made from logs and branches. I back out of the clearing and head up the trail period disappointed in myself for falling like that.

A short time later I cross Dead Woman's Hollow Road, which earned the name when a woman was bitten by a rattlesnake and died. No one knows who the woman was, but the name stuck. 

This is also the site of a tragedy when, in 1988, a young mountain man shot two young women camping in the woods. One of the young women hiked four miles to get help, miraculous because she was shot five times. Unfortunately her friend was dead by the time the police arrived. How sad.

I see a man in coveralls taking down the "Campfire Prohibited" signs.  He looks at me sheepishly and says "You know it's been a little wet?" 

I reply that I think I'm going to end up with trench foot, it's been quite wet. When he says "Well, at least it's only on Wednesdays." 

And I say "Yeah, but isn't it going to rain this weekend, too?" 

He shrugs and says "Yeah, but at least you can have fires now!" And I'm thinking if I could ever find any dry firewood maybe...

A short time later I look at the time to see how I'm coming and I realize I have done almost nine miles and it's only 9 30 a.m.!!

I've always wanted to do 10 by 10!  I Turn on the gas because this is a goal that's in my reach. 

By 9:50 I hit the ten mile mark! I did it!  I made 10 by 10. Now I need to try not to let the rest of my day fall to pieces because I hiked too fast this morning, haha.



The remainder of the day is non-eventful. The gradients on these hills are really easy. By the time I hit the 10 miles, I only made little over 1,000 feet of elevation gain. With the rest of the little hills, I only have an additional thousand feet to get to Pine Grove Furnace State Park, which is super easy by AT standards.

The trail meanders over the ridge and crosses many of the dirt and gravel roads that service the state forest. The area surrounding the trail has been burned, and what isn't burned is diseased and dying.  Even with the burned and dying trees, the trail is unbelievably pretty. The understory is extremely thick on both sides of the trail.  Lots and lots of the most beautiful pink mountain laurel crowd the trail, and blueberry bushes are blooming prolifically, promising a bounty of tasty berries later in the summer.



I don't know if it's the ease of the trail, the beautiful pink dark pink blooms of the mountain laurel, or just the fact that the rain has stopped and the birds are singing, but this is by far one of the nicest days I have hiked in a very very long time.  The temperature is moderate, and by noon the sun emerges from the clouds and I stop to take off my long-sleeved shirt. 



The trail finally leaves the burned out ridge and descends down for a short time. I am hiking down the hill when a woman comes up behind me, and I am delighted to see Soft Serve.  I ask if she liked the hostel and she says it was nice but "interesting,"  as the service last night was lively with music and singing.  One of the hikers, who was covered in bee stings, was asked to stand in front of the congregation who then proceeded to lay hands on him to aid in his healing. Soft Serve said the food was wonderful, as were the accommodations. 

We hike together down the hill, Soft Serve in the lead and hiking fast. I ask if she is planning on participating in the Half-Gallon Challenge when she gets to Pine Grove Furnace State Park; a rite of passage on the AT, where participants eat a half gallon of Hershey's Ice cream within a 30 minute period. She says she isn't much into ice cream, but would happily eat something savory. 

Then we spend some time talking about nutrition on the trail; a favorite topic of many long distance hikers.  We chat about the challenge of getting healthy food and eating enough protein and calories.  Neither of us are in to eating a lot of the junk food that makes up a big portion of the mainstream diet out here. 

We pass an older couple who are out for a day hike, and we stop to chat with them for a minute.  They ask if we would like a snack and give us each a packet of Oreos, which we both happily accept.  Even though we are both into healthier eating, we both agree that free food is always welcome!

A very short time later, we come to a stream, and I tell Soft Serve that I am going to stop and filter some water and she continues on the trail, giddy with excitement over getting some food at the state park. I am really thirsty, as I drank the last of my water some time ago.

I chug the cold stream water as I walk through Tom's Run Shelter area.  There were two shelters here at one time, but one of the burnt down and was not replaced.  The area is beautiful and park-like, with a grassy lawn above the shelter and a tree-covered camping area between the shelter and the stream below. 

A young woman sporting a short-sleeved shirt emblazoned with the ridge runner patch on the sleeve approaches me and we chat for a few minutes.  She tells me that people will be out working on sawing blowdowns and widow makers later today.

A tenth of a mile further, I reach the tall sign marking the halfway point of the entire trail!  The big sign, next to a mailbox with a trail register, proclaims I am 1,090.5 miles from Springer Mountain to the south and Mount Katahdin to the north, although I am really at mile 1,101. I don't have the brain cells to work that out in my head.  I take a picture and sign the register.  What an accomplishment! 




My feet are definitely tired by the time I reach Pine Grove Furnace State Park. The park store and snack bar is next to the Ironmasters Hostel, where I can hear people chatting on the porch of the big, old building.  I am not much of either an ice cream or a sweets person, but a soda sure sounds really good right now.

As I'm walking up to the store I see Soft Serve sitting out front at a cafe table. She is digging into a burger and fries and tells me the cowboy burger is outstanding. I wasn't planning on eating here, but a burger sounds amazing and I go inside and order the same. 

A short time later, I am enjoying one of the best burgers I've ever had in my life, while Soft Serve tells me about her adventures on the Pacific Crest Trail.  I ask how her Appalachian Trail experience differs from her time on the Pacific Crest Trail, and she tells me the AT is more difficult but more social. The wet conditions of the AT are a huge change as well. 



A gentleman hiker walks over to introduce himself and says that he and his daughter are thru-hiking the trail.  She finished college a semester early to do this with him.  I think this so wonderful.

We all say goodbye and I get to my truck and make the 40-minute trip to my mother's cousin's home to spend the night. 

They are wonderful hosts, and I get an amazing dinner, fun stories,  and a much needed shower and laundry. 

Today's Stats: 17.3 miles, 1,985 feet elevation gain, 2,526 feet loss
Trail Stats: 1105 miles, 237K feet gain, 242K feet loss


Appalachian Trail Day 100 - Deer Lick Shelters to Quarry Gap Shelter (Mile 1072 to Mile 1088)

I wake up and look at my watch. I'm surprised to see that it is 5:30 in the morning. I really thought I'd be up earlier than this, especially given the early time I went to bed. 

Soft Serve is already awake and is almost packed up. I am so impressed by the size of her pack. She really is a minimalist. She sleeps on a short sleeping pad and uses her pack liner around her feet for a vapor barrier to provide more warmth. She sleeps on her stuff sack with clothes inside as a pillow. I've tried that and it doesn't work for me, but maybe I should rethink my sleeping pad if I'm going to be sleeping in shelters more often. Every time I think I have everything dialed in and it's perfect my brain thinks there's a better way to do it. 

I tried to pack up quietly but Overdone says "If you're trying to be quiet on my account don't worry about it because I'm awake." 

Alright then! I start shoving things in my pack without regard to noise.