I look at the elevation profile for today and it's not too bad. I have 1,700 feet of climb, and only 8 miles, and water is plentiful today; easy peasy!
The elevation gain starts as soon as I get out of camp. I gain 400 feet over a half mile to the first view of the day; a rocky ledge directly in front of Smarts Mountain, where I climbed the fire tower yesterday. I can see the tower from here, but it looks like an extra tall tree at this distance.
The next half mile is relatively level, only gaining another 100 or so feet. I come to a brook, and decide to stop and eat something and drink some more water in preparation for the big climb up Mt. Cube. While I am filtering water, a hiker named Sonic comes up and we are talking when another hiker comes up and takes off his pack. His name is Ambassador. He is Dutch but lives in Spain. A few minutes later Mystic shows up and we are having a gathering in the woods.
Mystic is surprised to see me. I tell her I stayed at the same brook as she did last night, but my hammock was down by the water and hard to see from the trail. I saw her walk across the bridge while I was bathing, but she didn't see me.
We get on the subject of resupplying, and Mystic says she is out of fuel. I tell her she can have my can, which isn't full but should get her another 2-3 dinners. She accepts and then I joke about getting rid of some of my excess food. Ambassador says he would love some, so I give him a 1,000 calorie bag of nuts, several servings of cheese, and a few Honey Stinger Waffles. He is very appreciative, and I am happy to help out and it has lightened my load!
After leaving the stream, I'm ready for the climb, but the trail remains relatively level for about a mile. Then all of a sudden it starts straight up the mountain on boulders that stop at a steep rock face. I scramble to the top. I am marveling at the amazing views and taking pictures when another hiker walks up. He takes off his pack and we talk about the hike. His name is Wormwood, from Valdez, Alaska.
Wormwood is so full of positive energy. He loves hiking and hiked the PCT. He decided to follow the Long Trail to its Canadian terminus and finished it before returning to the Appalachian Trail and continuing to Maine. What a beast!
The trail continues up to Mount Cube where the views are even more spectacular. I am talking to two southbounders when I spy blueberries! They are big and ripe, and while I am picking some with the southbounders, Mystic walks up. Before I start the descent, I call the Barn Door Hostel for a shuttle, as there isn't any service at the next road crossing. No one is answering, so I call home and Dad accepts the mission of procuring me a shuttle.
The three and a half mile descent down to Route 25A is noneventful, however I see many big piles of moose droppings over the 2,000 foot drop, but not a moose in sight..
The spruce and fir forest abruptly gives way to a predominantly hardwood forest with the occasional spruce. The weather is beautiful; sunny but shaded under the tree canopy, the birds are singing, and a light breeze is perfect for hiking. I cross several small and pretty streams.
Just before I lose service, I receive confirmation from Dad that the shuttle will pick me up at 2PM. This day just can't get any better!
I stop at a stream to filter a cup of fresh, cold water and pull out my phone to look at the map and check my calendar. I will be entering the Whites in a couple days, and I realize that if I average 10 miles per day I can summit Mount Washington before I need to come home for the weekend!
When I reach the parking lot, I see Mystic. She doesn't think she can do the next 10 miles she was originally planning on today. There is no cell service here, so she can't arrange a shuttle. I offer her a ride to Hikers Welcome Hostel, where I am spending the night, and planning on slackpacking tomorrow from here back to the hostel. She thinks about it for a minute, then accepts my offer. If the shuttle driver won't transport her back with me, she can wait here and I will come back and pick her up.
A couple minutes later, the shuttle driver arrives, and he agrees to transport both of us back to Barn Door Hostel, where I pick up my truck. We drive to Hikers Welcome, stopping at an awesome general store called Appleknockers, where we grab food and cold drinks.
We arrive and are shown around the hostel by one of the staff. I recognize her from somewhere, then find out she is Hot Tamale from Angel's Rest in Pearisberg, Virginia!
Soon the hostel is bustling with activity. Mystic and I shower and combine our laundry to wash as I spread out the contents of my pack to dry in the hot sun. I am tucking into my footlong sub and a big Greek salad when the sky darkens and I gather all my belongings and throw everything into my truck before it starts raining.
I am sitting in the dining area with Mystic, Sonic, and Wormwood when another hiker walks in. It's Carrot Cake! He is as delighted to see me as I him, and we all engage in lively discussion.
We are all talking about the crazy mountains ahead. We all agree we need to come up with our plans for the hike now that we are at the doorstep of the Whites. There are a few campsites and shelters run by the AMC, but camping away from these areas is strictly forbidden and enforced. The other options are the huts, which are right off the trail in most cases, but they are egregiously expensive. I am looking at doing 8-10 miles per day through the Whited, because the elevation gains are 4,000 plus per summit. I look at the AMC website and see that a couple of the best Huts are pretty much reserved for the next week. I definitely need to come up with a plan but I am too tired to think right now.
Wormwood and Sonic are going to zero here tomorrow to rest up for the Whites. I need some forward progress in my life so I arrange to get shuttle back to 25A in the morning and have an easy 10 mile hike back to the hostel. I can do another 10 mile slack pack of Moosilauke the next day, thereby saving my energy for the next grueling section.
A crazy thunderstorm lets loose, and I sit in a rocking chair on the front porch of the bunkhouse, enjoying the deluge from the comfort of cover while calling home and checking in before heading to bed. The sunset over the ridge to the west illuminates the sky before setting.
Today's Stats: 7.3 miles, 1,745 feet gain
Trail Stats: 1,789 miles, 353K feet gain
Miles to Katahdin: 405
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