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Appalachian Trail Day 109 - Eagle's Nest Shelter to Port Clinton, PA (Mile 1211 to Mile 1220)

I was up around 5:00 a.m. this morning and no one else was stirring in the shelter or the surrounding campsites. I started taking down my camp, appreciating that I didn't have anyone really close to me so I could use my headlamp on blast and didn't have to worry about waking anyone up in the process.

A few minutes later I can see Kelly's headlamp on the other side of the shelter grounds.  By the time I am packed, Kelly is making her way to the picnic table. Daddy Long Legs is awake and packing as well. We hang out at the picnic table while Kelly makes some coffee and soon it is full of hikers. 

We say goodbye and hit the trail by 6:30 a.m. I grab a liter of water when we pass a spring on our return to the AT. Today is overcast but thankfully it is warm and I'm not wearing any extra layers. 



Our hike into town is going to be short and sweet. We go up one steep and rocky hill, but most of our trek is level or descending, so I barely break a sweat all morning. 

I take some time to identify a couple plants, and Kelly and I chat for a while during our hike. 

We reach an interesting view but can't see very much due to the clouds which are building. The most remarkable thing about the spot is a squat carved and painted totem pole. I have no idea why it is here, but it's interesting, nonetheless. 



From here we start a very steep descent into Port Clinton.  The trail is so ridiculously steep that I am walking sideways down most of it or shuffling my feet forward trying not to dislodge any loose rocks. I would hate to hike this in the rain. I am so grateful for my healthy knee joints.

At the bottom of the crazy step hill, the trail goes through a rail yard. We cross the Schuylkill River on a bridge, and we walk two blocks to leave Port Clinton.  The parking lot just outside of town is where we repositioned Kelly's car before the 501 Shelter.

The weather forecast is grim for the next five days. We have a high likelihood of thunderstorms this afternoon, then a chance of rain every day for the three days following.  Finally, on the fifth day, we can expect an all-day soaker. Just splendid!



A much as I love the rain, I don't think I'm ready to hike in it for 5 days.  I'm still traumatized by the three inches of rain I slogged through in Virginia a couple weeks ago. Additionally, I must do laundry and get a shower.  I haven't bathed in a week, and I stink. Fortunately, Kelly feels the same as I do and she is agreeable to hop off and slackpack for a couple days.  

I check my booking site for a hotel room.  The Microtel, which is closest to the trail and where the hikers stay, is fully booked.  I check for availability and my eyes water at the exorbitant prices. The worst rated hotel within 30 miles is $120, and the mid-range hotels I usually stay at (Hampton Inn / Holiday Inn, etc.) are starting a $300. I find out later there is a college graduation nearby.

I come up with Plan B. We call a hostel 30 miles up the trail called the Lookout Hostel. They have one bed left but have campsites available. I tell Kelly she can have the bed. I will sleep anywhere as long as I can shower and have clean clothes!



We go back to 501 to pick up my truck, then drive to the hostel.  I make a quick side trip to a nearby Cabela's, which is purported to be the biggest location.  The store is really impressive, and I admire the sculpture out front, as well as the huge three-story mountain inside the store covered with stuffed mountain goats, bears, and deer. 

Soon I am at The Lookout Hostel. Perched on a ridge right next to mile 1247 of the trail, it offers the most incredible view of the valley to the south. We start unloading our stuff and Kelly grabs a bunk in the basement bunkhouse.  We take showers and do laundry.  

I feel incredible, even though my feet are killing me from all the rocks. An afternoon dose of ibuprofen is going to be a requirement until we get through these rocks.  I did realize that my hiking shoes does not have a rock plate, as I previously believed. However, I am pleased to realize that I have a spare older pair in my truck that does have a rock plate. 


We meet the other hikers staying at the hostel, and everyone decides to go the nearby Thunderhead Lodge for dinner. I eat a mountain of food while enjoying the company of Zoom Zoom (a shuttle driver), Comeback (a Flip-Flopper), and Irishman (Zoom Zoom's brother). 

We return to the hostel, and someone starts a fire in the fire pit, located beside the hostel and on the edge of the ridge overlooking the valley to the south. I soon say goodnight and head to my hammock, down the hill from the hostel. 

Today's Stats: 9 miles, 620 feet ascent, 1,824 feet descent
Trail Stats: 1,220 miles, 251K feet ascent, 258K feet descent

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