I wake with first light. I slept surprisingly well in spite of the fact that we had so many snoring hikers packed in like sardines in the shelter. I jump out of my bed, urgent with the need to head up the trail to find GG. Many hikers are already up and packing quietly, trying not to disturb those still sleeping. Because of the bad weather last night, we had nothing to do but go to sleep. At least we are all well rested.
Gordon is already packing. I quickly stuff my sleeping gear into my pack, pull out my morning coffee protein shake and a couple of bars for snacks, and I'm waving goodbye to the shelter about 20 minutes later.
The bad weather from the night before has moved out, but the trail is thick with fog and everything is wet. The path up to Rocky Top lives up to its name and is quite rocky. Small sluices of water flow down the trail and eddy at the base of larger rocks. I take care when stepping up on rocks, testing them to make sure they won't dislodge. My shoes are still wet from the day before. Every step creates a squelching sound, and my feet are prunes within an hour of leaving the shelter. There is supposed to be a fantastic view, but I can barely see twenty feet in front of me.
Fortunately, the fog clears mid-morning, and the day promises to be pleasant for hiking. The elevation profile is relatively flat compared to most other days. I can't really enjoy the trail too much because I am worried about GG. I wonder if she kept hiking to the next shelter in that crazy weather. I have foolishly hiked through thunderstorms before. The last place you want to be in lightening is on the exposed top of a mountain ridge.
After four miles and 2000 feet of elevation gain, I encounter a trio of backpackers headed toward me. Two men and a woman. They are talking and laughing together, obviously enjoying the trail.
"Are you GG's friend from Maryland?" she asks when they draw near.
"I am! Have you seen her?" I respond.
"Yes, she is okay and stayed at the next shelter last night. She said she would walk to the shelter after and wait for you there."
I am so relieved to know she is safe! I feel like a huge weight is lifted. This encounter is aptly called the "trail telegraph," where people send messages up and down the trail. I thank the group and continue north. I am really enjoying the scenery. This will be my first full day in the park without rain and I want to soak in everything the Smokies have to offer. Birds are chirping, the trout lilies are emerging, spring beauties are starting to flower. Spring is definitely springing!
Shortly after leaving the hikers, I see a woman dressed in the uniform of a backwoods ranger. As we approach, she asks if I am hiking with a woman named GG. I answer that I am, and I am happy she is safe. I ask her if she is a ranger, and she responds that she is a ridge runner. Ridge runners are employed by parks and the ATC (Appalachian Trail Conservancy) to maintain sections of the trail, as well as educate hikers and check permits.
I am thrilled to talk to a real-life ridge runner! We talked about the storm "that sure was something last night, wasn't it?". I ask about bear encounters and safety, she replies that all food needs to be hung, even in bear canisters, as the bears have gotten smart and try to take off with the canisters. We chit chat for about 20 minutes before we say our goodbyes.
Soon after I arrive at Derrick Knob Shelter, which is empty. I take a snack break at the shelter and flip through the logbook. I am relieved to see GG's entry from this morning, which stated she was safe and heading to the next shelter as reported. I also see Gordon's entry, which stated he was checking in and moving on.
The rest of the day is an absolutely lovely hike. The trail isn't flat, but the elevation is gentle, with 1800' of gain spread over six miles. Birds are chirping their songs and the leaves on the trees are just emerging. Little white blooms from cut-leaf toothwort are scattered on the forest floor, interspersed with the delicate blades and pink flowers of spring beauties.
I reach Silers Bald Shelter (not to be confused with Siler Bald Shelter at mile 113) around 4 pm, which is great timing as the day is waning and the air is decidedly chillier. We are at 5,500' elevation, after all. The trail approaches from behind, so I can't see if GG is inside. I round the corner of the shelter to see her inside! She is chatting with another hiker and is in good spirits, well rested from a short 6-mile day.
GG explains that in the driving rain she had her head down and completely missed seeing neither the chest-high sign nor the well-worn trail that headed to the right off the trail TWICE! Yes, there were TWO well-marked trails that went off-trail the shelter. "What about how long it was taking you?" I asked. "Didn't you look at the map once you realized you should have been there within a couple hours of leaving Mollie's Ridge?"
She explained it never occurred to her.
"What about when you went up that mountain?" I enquired. I mean, it's kind of hard to miss climbing a mountain.
She responded that she had no idea something was wrong until she got to the next shelter.
We catch up while we make dinner. She saw Gordon earlier and apparently, they exchanged some terse words. He went ahead to the next shelter. He will have to wait for us at some point, as it is Friday and Kelly isn't supposed to meet us with our food until Sunday. I don't know if he is planning on a really short day tomorrow, but oh well, not my problem!
We go to bed at hiker midnight, which is whenever the sun sets, and it gets dark. Good night!
Today's Stats: 12 miles, 3800' elevation gain
Section Stats: 132 miles, 34k' elevation gain
Trail Stats: 196 miles, 48.7k' elevation gain
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