Demeter's Dish: Appalachian Trail Day 61 - Wapiti Shelter to Woods Hole Hostel (Mile 618 to Mile 625)

I tossed and turned throughout the night, not because I was cold, but because I was too hot! I am using my heavy under quilt, prepared for cool shoulder-season temperatures, the cold of our last section here one month ago still fresh in my mind. I brought a small min/max thermometer out of curiosity (I know: totally unnecessary but I just want to know!) and this morning it's reading 56F degrees. The under quilt is definitely overkill!

Thankfully the rain has stopped and there is no wind. GG and I pack up languidly, because we are staying at Woods Hole Hostel tonight and the hike there is only 8 miles up the trail. Woods Hole is considered one of the nicest hostels on the trail, known for being more of a retreat than a hostel, with fresh farm-to-table meals, daily yoga sessions, and chickens and goats running about.

Woods Hole is so popular that reservations book quickly during hiker season. I called yesterday and was able to reserve a campsite; the hostel and platform tents are already full.

Even though we take our time packing, it is only 7:20 am when we hit the trail. Out of the gate we have a one thousand foot climb, which is a great way to get the blood pumping in the morning. I meet up with a thru hiker who camped near the shelter. He found GG yesterday on the side of the trail when she was lost, and pointed her in the right direction. His name is Patsy, and he retired last year before starting the trail in February. We chat up the hill for a little while until he stops for a snack.

GG catches me up and we stop at the top of the ridge, where we have a nice view of the Wilburn Valley, with Pearisburg just visible to the north, 17 miles away. This is where we will be hiking tomorrow.

The woods are so pretty. The understory is open with lots of ferns, and the tall beeches dapple the ground beneath with just the right amount of shade. There is no more climbing now that we are up on the ridge. Alas, I only enjoy this hiking paradise for an hour before I see the sign pointing towards the hostel down a gravel forest road.

The hostel is adorable! A chestnut log cabin circa 1880 is in the middle of the 100 acre farm. Small buildings and gardens dot the property. People are sitting on the porch in rocking chairs and laying on the grass in front of the hostel on yoga mats.

This place is so lovely that many hikers zero here for more than two days, which is called a vortex. The bathhouse is newly built and has two spacious showers, two toilet areas, and a washer and dryer with lots of large towels and tons of loaner clothes. GG and I get to work setting up camp and cleaning with plenty of time to spare to read and relax before yoga.

Neville, the proprietress, has us stand in a circle of gratitude, where we introduce ourselves and state for what we are grateful. I am appreciative for so much, but others before me have said a lot of what I am feeling. I state my gratitude for the serenity and beauty of the woods which bring me peace. We line up for the family-style dinner with fresh homemade bread, green salad, peanut and sweet potato noodles with eggs, and warm cookies for dessert. I could be an ovo-lacto vegetarian if I had someone cooking like this for me every night!

I sit with a lovely group of hikers, many of which are planning on staying at Angel's Rest tomorrow night and eating at a local Mexican restaurant. I mention that GG and I are staying there as well, and we are invited to join them.

Picture dump following!