Appalachian Trail Day 182 - Trailside Campsite To Logan Brook Lean-to (Mile 2,112 to Mile 2,127)

I woke up at exactly the same time as yesterday at 5:27 a.m., which is a little wierd.  I barely have any water, so I don't bother making coffee or tea.  As much as I would love to wake up gently with a hot beverage in the hammock this morning, I get going, energized by the fact that I'm meeting Dad in an hour and he's bringing me a cup of coffee!

The temperature this morning is much warmer than yesterday at this hour, and I don't mind putting on my slightly damp clothes from yesterday right before leaving camp at 6:15.

The sun is just coming up over the ridge to the east, and there's a light breeze; it's not very chilly at all.  It's hard to believe that I am in Maine in the fall and the temperatures are so mild! 

The trail travels along some relatively level rock ledges on the ridge before descending to a fir forest. The woods are still quiet, with the squirrels and chipmunks just starting to wake up and drop pine cone bombs into the forest floor.  Occasionally a bird chirps to the accompanying thunk of a pine cone landing in the pine sheds.

I pass a couple of nice campsites on my way off the ridge, but I'm satisfied with where I stayed because the spring here is dry and I would have had to walk to the pond quite a way off the trail to get to water.

I reach the road at 7 and Dad is waiting for me. He asks me if I'd like to sit inside the warm truck and drink coffee, but I'm actually rather warm from the hike down. He surprises me when he says it's only 43 degrees. I guessed it was closer to 50.

I drink coffee, a protein shake, and a Bubbly water while I repack my supplies. If nothing else, I'm going to be extremely well hydrated for the next couple of hours. I empty my bear can and repack it with everything I'll need for the next two days and 30 miles, as well as top off my water and change my clothes. I switch out my shoes from my Altra Lone Peaks, for my Topo UltraVentures which I bought back in Pennsylvania and are still practically brand new.  I refill toilet paper and hand sanitizer. I'm running low on a couple things so I give him a short shopping list of supplies for the next meeting at Jo-Mary Road.

Dad has seen two bull moose cruising down the logging road this morning. He pulls out his phone and shows me a video of a moose with a giant rack cruising in front of him straight down the road. The irony is not lost on me; he sees two moose on the road while I am out here in the wild seeing nothing but moose poop and no sign of the creatures otherwise.

Resupplied and with fresh clothes, I give him a hug goodbye and I'm back on the trail at 8:15, waving goodbye as I reenter the woods on the side of the road. I took a long break, but I'm glad I wasn't able to spend some time with him. 

Leaving the forest road, the trail walks along Henderson Brook, a beautiful and wide stream flowing swiftly down to the West Branch of the Pleasant River.  The trail is delightfully flat, but I know this is fleeting,  as I will be doing a whole lot of climbing today.

The 100 Mile Wilderness has 17,000 feet of elevation gain in total. Today I will be climbing up White Cap Mountain, after which I will have completed 11,000 feet of climbing; over 65% of the total elevation gain of the 100 Mile Wilderness in the first forty miles. After today, the elevation changes will be much milder!  

The trail turns to walk along the Pleasant River a short way until it crosses the same river. There's no way to rock hop across the waterway so I will have to change into my water shoes and walk through the cold water. Benches are next to the river on both sides where I can change in and out of my water shoes.

I exhale sharply as I start the crossing. The ford is easy and shallow; only about mid-shin deep, but the water is icy, and at this hour of the morning it's not refreshing at all but just cold! 

On the other side of the West Branch of the Pleasant River I stop to dry off my freezing feet and replace my socks and shoes before I walk through the Hermitage; an old-growth second forest. While not the original trees, which were clear cut like so much of Appalachia, they are still quite old by new world standards; about 200 years. There are signs stating that no camping is allowed in this area In order to preserve the forest.

The trail through the Hermitage is short and starts uphill, which is going to be my theme of the day; climbing more than 4,000 feet over the four Peaks that comprise White Cap Mountain. The forest is beautiful and the trail starts running alongside the Gulf Hagas Brook for three miles while I increase in elevation. The falls and rapids are numerous, and I pause at a particularly awesome spot that overlooks a narrow gorgeous carved out of the rocks below.

After two hours, at 11 A.M, the trail leaves the brook. I stop to take off my pack and filter the water I will need for the remainder of the day.  The next water source is where I am staying tonight, over seven miles away. I take a seat next to the gushing brook on a rock in front of a small waterfall while filling my water bladder and enjoy the serenity and beauty for the 20 minutes it takes to filter.  

After filtering the water, I cross the stream, and climb a hill to arrive at a side trail for the Carl Newhall Memorial Lean-to.  I walk to the Lean-to so I can sit on the edge of the shelter for a quick lunch break. 

The breeze is shaking the trees around the clearing of the shelter and is quite chilly.  As I approach the shelter two men are leaving, and I say hello to them; an older man and someone who looks to be in their 30's.  They walk out of the shelter area just as I take off my pack.  

I open a pouch of ready-to-eat beans to fuel for the big climb while I look at the rest of my hike on the FarOut app.  So far I've done 7.5 miles, which is half of my miles, but I'm only a third of the way through climbing for the day.  I gained 1,600 feet but there is still 3,000 feet yet to go to get over all of White Cap Mountain. 

Finished with lunch, I leave the shelter to tackle the mountain. The first climb up is a little steep but the rocks are cut in such a way that it's pretty easy to walk up them, although a couple times I have to really stretch to make the steps. I get to the top of the first peak and I'm bummed to see there's no view; it's completely wooded, but it's still very pretty nonetheless. The leaves are falling from the birch trees and the leaves are carpeting the trail. The start contrast of the white trunks against the blue sky is stunning. 

I descend and go by the large Sydney Tappan Campsite. The campsite looks to extend deep into the woods and a large fire pit is close to the trail.  I planned on staying here tonight before making extra miles earlier in my trip.  Right now it's way too early to stop, but I take a moment to look through the log book and sign in before continuing on to the second peak. 

The climbing is steep but there are a couple of very welcome switchbacks up the mountain which is rare: the trail usually just barrels straight up. 

I reach the west peak and again there is no view. All this climbing without a view is becoming laughable,  but I can't manage more than a chuckle because I'm winded from the effort. At least I'm in good spirits and happy knowing that I'm almost done with the big climbs on the trail until Katahdin. 

I cross the third peak around four o'clock and at this point I've done 11 miles.  My stomach is grumbling and I realize I haven't eaten in three hours. I take a quick snack break on a log and continue on to the last big climb of the day.

I'm at a trail junction and getting ready to head up the last peak when I see the two gentlemen I saw at the last shelter. They are camped on the side of the trail.  We exchange pleasantries and they introduce themselves. The younger is named SOS and the older is Shoes. They are a father and son hiking the trail together,  which is so awesome. I'm enjoying the interaction with them but I'm getting cold in the chilly breeze so I say goodbye in order to tackle the last peak and get to camp before dark.

The wind has been blowing quite hard all day and the clouds sporadically cover the sun just enough to make me question putting on another layer.  A gust of wind blows and spruce needles rain down all over my head. It's been doing this quite regularly as I've been hiking through a dense spruce forest almost all day. I will be picking needles out of my hair for days!

Th climb up to White Cap is the perfect reward after the effort of the last 4,500 feet without views, because this mountain more than makes up for the last three tree-covered peaks.

The view to the south is of the Chairbacks, which seem so big and craggy from here.  I can't believe I have hiked all this way and up and over all these mountains! 

I try to find the northern view and after I walk around aimlessly a few seconds I see the big white arrow and "view" painted in white on a rock. I walk through thick blueberry bushes (devoid of fruit) to emerge at a sweeping view of Katahdin to the north. 

The views are absolutely glorious, but I don't stay long because the wind is blowing hard and I am cold. I only have thirty minutes until sunset and still need to hike down to the shelter. On the treeless descent, I appreciate the relatively flat expanse of the next 70 miles between here and Katahdin, broken by several decent sized ponds.

The hike down the mountain is steep but requires no technical climbing. I lose 1,100 feet over one and a half miles and get to the Logan Brook Lean-to, which is occupied by two campers already buried under their sleeping bags.  The woods are dense around the shelter so I set up directly behind the shelter on a slope. A pile of fresh moose poop is on the edge of the small clearing, but I don't mind, since it thankfully doesn't smell. I filter water from the nice stream out front and tuck into my dinner just as the last bit of light leaves the sky. 

A young woman just arrived and she is setting up her tent by the light of her headlamp. We chat in low voices so as not to disturb the nearby shelter inhabitants. She started the HMW yesterday and averages 25 miles per day. I'm in awe of this, since I am averaging 15 miles per day and hiking from sun up to sundown as it is.

I am utterly exhausted by the time I crawl into my hammock at 9 p.m., thankful for the comfort of my hammock and down quilt. I quickly descend into slumber.

Today's Stats: 15 miles, 4,150 feet gain

Trail Stats: 2,127 miles, 429K feet gain

Miles to Katahdin: 70

Appalachian Trail Day 181 - Vaughn Stream to Trailside Campsite - The Barren-Chairback Mountains (Mile 2,097 to Mile 2,112)

I slept almost 10 hours last night and it was heavenly to have such a great night's sleep on the trail! The weather was supposed to be in the 30's and I was very snug and comfortable In my hammock. I wake it 5:30 and make a cup of coffee to drink while I'm packing up. 

I leave camp at 6:45 just as the sun is starting to rise over the nearby eastern ridge.  I snack as I walk, and plan on stopping for a bigger meal once I get some elevation behind me. Today is going to be a big climbing day, where I will tackle the Barren/Chairbacks and gain about 4,000 feet, so I want to keep on the move.

Shortly after starting I cross the Long Pond Stream where a rope is fixed to help hikers across but I am able to rock hop without using the rope. There are some beautiful campsites next to the stream, and I'm hoping to find something equally as nice tonight when I stop 15 miles up the trail.

I'm feeling a wet spot on my back and that means my water bladder is leaking. I don't have a ton of water as it is; carrying the bare minimum between water sources to save pack weight,  so I take off my pack and investigate. Some debris has gotten into the connection between the bladder and the hose so I clear it and get back on the trail.

The trail follows the stream for a while before diverging and heading up the mountain. On the way up I pass by the blue blaze to the Long Pond Stream Lean-to but I decide to skip the shelter because I need to keep moving.

The first climb is 900 feet up to the Barren Slide. The climb is not too difficult although I stop halfway up to make a pit stop. Freehand comes up the trail as I'm stopped and we chat for a little while. He stayed at the shelter I just passed, and it sounds like I had a much better night than he did. 

At the top of the first climb is a really beautiful view of Lake Onawa and in the far distance I can see the tips of the Bigelows and Crocker Mountain. I take a brief pause here, but only for a few minutes because I've only hiked three miles so far.

After the view the trail is a delightfully easy path along the ridge. The trail passes through a dense pine forest and the ground is covered with nice soft pine sheds which cushion my feet, which recovered nicely overnight. 

The ridge is covered in trees for the next two miles, and adds another 700 feet to the Barren Mountain peak,  the western peak of thee Barren-Chairback Range.  A  partially dismantled fire tower dominates the peak, and I see a PVC tube at the base of the tower, and I unscrew the end cap to sign the log book within.

Most of the fire towers on the mountains in this area were erected in the early 1900's. Now the fire activity is monitored by airplane so the towers are no longer necessary and serve only as attractive nuisances to adventurous hikers who think it's fun to try to climb up the old rickety things.

Coming down Barren Mountain I encounter a challenging rocky descent which really slows me down. It's approaching noon and the sun is high overhead.  I'm thankful for the tree cover, which keeps me cool on the high ridge.

I arrive at an intermittent stream a little over an hour after leaving Barren Mountain to find Freehand and another gentleman who is section hiking southbound engaged in conversation. I take off my pack and join them for a lunch break.  I figure out that I can filter my water hands-free if I sit on my dirty water bottle while I'm eating, squeezing the filtered water into my pack bladder.  I also discover that the bladder is definitely leaking, with a wet spot on the outside of my pack. It's not pouring out but a steady slow drip.  I think it will last for the rest of my hike, but I will have to put the water bag on the top of my pack with the leaking connector positioned on the outside so as not to get my stuff wet.

We all say goodbye and Freehand gets ahead of me when I stay to finish sitting on another bottle of water to watch a mouse darting around the spot where he sat, looking to score a crumb or two. 

The trail goes through the Fourth Mountain Bog where there are a number of endangered plants including carnivorous pitcher plants and sundews that are native to Maine. I would love to see something like this but the last couple times I've tried to find them in the bogs my eyes couldn't register anything that looked remotely like a pitcher plant, so I walk across the bog bridges looking but not expecting much. A few seconds later I am delighted to find pitcher plants everywhere! They are so cool looking and they're easy to spot as they are bright red in color against the fading green and yellow ferns and green mosses. I carefully peer inside one to see a dead bug floating in the cup, being slowly digested by the plant. This just made my day! It's not a moose, but it's still really cool to see something like this on the trail, nonetheless.

After seeing the plants I start up a 450 foot climb up some unnamed peak.  As I round the corner of the trail I'm amazed to see old plane wreckage scattered through the woods. I've seen videos of this on Youtube, but I had no idea it was in this section.  The crash happened in January of 1984, and miraculously the father and son walked away from the wreck. I leave the plane wreckage undisturbed to continue along. 

The trail both up and down in this section Is amazingly nice and easy with only a couple of really rooty areas as I descend from spruce woods almost instantly into a mixed forest. A breeze is blowing and leaves drift down lazily onto the trail. The birds are tweeting, and the trees are spectacular in the dappled sunlight.

A couple hours later I crest Chairback Third Mountain,  and on the ledges I have a gorgeous view of a pond to the west and White Cap Mountain that I will climb tomorrow. There are some fluffy white and gray birds that are flittering branch to branch in the trees near me. I really stink at bird identification, but I'm pretty sure that these are the birds that will come and eat out of your hand.  When I stop to get a look at them I take out some trail mix and hold it out but the birds are not interested and they just fly away.

The roots and rocks have really slowed me down the last couple of hours and I'm barely doing one and a half miles per hour. My feet are starting to ache when I arrive at the blue blaze for West Chairback Pond. This is where I originally planned on staying tonight and it's four o'clock and I'm tired, but I really don't want to use up the miles in my bank. If I stay here then I have to stay on point for the rest of the week, and I will absolutely have to do 15 miles per day to make Katahdin on the 17th. Even as inviting as the spot looks to camp, and as much as I'd like to stop for the day, I decide to push on. There is another campsite over the next mountain where I can stop if I can't go any further. I'd really like to make it the whole way down to the river where I'm meeting Dad tomorrow morning, but that is six miles away and you never know what surprises the trail has in store.

I do stop to filter some water and pop some ibuprofen for my aching feet, hoping I can head off the discomfort that I'm sure to have later today. At the rate I'm going I won't get to the river until dark, and I still have Columbus and Chairback Peaks to go over. 

My plans go off the rails as I start the descent from the last Chairback peak. It is a boulder field straight down where I have to boot scoot several times clutching my poles because if I drop one it will likely go between boulders never to be seen again. The climb down is crazy difficult,  but thankfully it's short; only 150 feet or so, and I make it down unscathed other than a couple of scratches on my legs. 

Once I'm down, I breathe a sigh of relief, thinking I can make up some time, but instead of a nice, smooth trail I encounter a crazy maze through chest-high blueberry bushes with long branches that stretch across the trail. The sun is getting low in the sky and I'm crawling at a snail's pace.

An hour before dark I realize that I still have three miles to go and at this rate I will have do an hour of night hiking, which is less than ideal in good conditions, but a really bad idea on rough trail such as this. I look at the app and see there is a place to camp between here and the trailhead at East Chairback Pond, which is supposed to be a lovely campsite, although I won't be able to enjoy it since I'll be getting in right at dark, but at least I'll get set up before it's too late and I won't have to night hike.

At 6:30 p.m. I I'm a half mile from the pond when I walk by a nice looking campsite next to the trail that would perfectly fit my hammock. I check it out and start to take off my pack but then have second thoughts and start to head back up the trail, but after a few steps I decide to turn back and set up here. 

My desire to be done before dark supercedes my need to be next to water. I don't have a whole lot of water but I can make it work for the night and I know that Dad has some water in the car. My plans for a gorgeous waterfront campsite went completely off the rails, but at least I won't have to night hike and I did get some hard miles behind me.

I don't bother to eat a proper dinner and instead plow through a lot of snacks in my bear can, and I'm out by 8 p.m..

Today's Stats: 14.7 miles, 4,065 feet gain

Trail Stats: 2,112 miles, 425K feet

Miles to Katahdin: 85

Appalachian Trail Day 180 - Monson, Maine to Vaughn Stream - Entering the 100 Mile Wilderness! (Mile 2,083 to Mile 2,097)

We went home for a wedding and returned to Maine yesterday. The drive up here was a LONG 12 hours! It was also quite expensive,  as I was ticketed for excessive speed on the New Jersey Turnpike, to the tune of $221. I'm very glad this is the last time I have to drive to get back to the trail.  

We are staying at the Bingham Motor Inn, which is a really great place to stay. The rooms are recently updated and the staff was absolutely lovely to Dad the last week he stayed here. They gave him fresh peaches from their tree, and on our check-in they left us nice "welcome back" notes with snacks. 

My alarm clock goes off far too early at 5:15, and I make a cup of coffee,  brush my teeth, and pack furiously, and at 6 am Dad and I are on the road after a stop across this street from the motel for a breakfast sandwich. 

We drive the forty minutes to Monson on a very rough Highway to the iconic Shaw's Hiker Hostel; an establishment serving the needs of Appalachian Trail hikers for over 40 years.  I texted Mama Turtle yesterday,  and she is at the hostel for a zero day with EZ, so I'm stopping by to see her before I head into the 100 Mile Wilderness. 

The parking lot is packed to the gills, with the front yard in front of the two houses surrounded with cars double parked around the perimeter.  Breakfast is in full swing as we go inside and wend our way through the 25 or so people distributed around the three large dining tables.  

We find Mama Turtle at a table with five other hikers, enjoying Shaw's famous pancake breakfast; all you can eat eggs, bacon, and pancakes, and lots of coffee. There are two empty seats at the table, like our visit was ordained by the hiking gods, and we take a seat to chat while the hikers are stuffing themselves on the repast.

We catch up while admiring a tall stack of pancakes served by hostel staff that looks like an upside down cone.  Many of the hikers will be heading out today, so I'm sure I'll be seeing some of them again. I'm really surprised by how many people are here! Every time I think that I'm way behind the other hikers I run into a big group, and  I am reminded that there are a lot of other hikers on the trail right now.

I say farewell to Mama Turtle and EZ and we drive to the trailhead where I am deposited and on the trail at 8:15. It feels so weird to be back on the trail, but I'm so glad I got so much rest.  I think my knees and Achilles have recovered from the stresses of the last couple months, and I feel refreshed and I am eager to go, even though I am experiencing a great trepidation about having to maintain a 15 mile-per-day average to be able to summit in 9 days.

About a mile after leaving the road and after passing a pond, I realize that my feet and hands are really cold. It is only 43 degrees this morning, after all, so I stop and change out my socks for neoprene socks and grab my gloves. Other than the chill, the weather Is perfect for hiking today; it's going to warm up to the 60's, the sun is shining, and there's no rain in the forecast for the next week. I am very thankful because the 100 Mile Wilderness can be an absolute mud pit in wet weather.  I know because I hiked the north half with my husband many years ago, when it rained for several days.

Two miles after getting on the trail I go across a stream and at the top is Leeman Brook Lean-to. There are Two people at the lean to and a section hiker named Freehand who thru hiked five years ago. I drop my pack and visit the privy, which I must admit is very nice, before going back to the shelter and talking to the other hikers while I eat a sandwich Dad made for me.

Leaving the lean-to, the trail passes one of many ponds that I will see today. There's no really big climbs today, but a series of meandering ups and downs. Although there are plenty of roots and rocks to keep me occupied.

The trail goes downhill past Little Wilson Falls and I get a couple nice views of the falls before the trail crosses Little Wilson Creek.

I make good time over the first 10 miles and at 2 p.m. I arrive at Big Wilson Creek where I planned on staying tonight, but it's early and I'm feeling good so I think I'm going to push on to the next big stream crossing where there are more campsites.

The trail crosses the stream and there are not enough rocks to hop across on so I will have to ford it, which is actually a good thing because I was thinking of taking off my shoes and soaking my feet anyway. I pull on my water shoes which I haven't carried for most of the trail but decided to bring them for the Wilderness because I knew there were going to be many stream crossings where I could get wet.

The stream crossing only takes a few minutes. The water is knee deep In one spot and delightfully cold on my weary feet.  

On the other side I take off my pack and filter some water and eat a heavy snack of pepperoni, cheese, and crackers and mix up some electrolytes. At home I made up a big batch of the mix that LMNT has on its website and mix it with a packet of Ocean Spray Drink mix and honey for the added carbohydrates. This drink is quite tasty and I've actually come really look forward to drinking it three times a day.

Back on the trail, I walk around another pond and up a hill with pretty views. At the top of a length of stone ledges, a man is sitting on the rock with a daypack eating a sandwich. I stop to say hello and he tells me he is slackpacking the trail from Gorham to Katahdin with a group who is supported by the legendary Warren Doyle. Doyle has completed the trail and amazing 18 times, which is a trail record. 

I say goodbye and cross a defunct logging road that looks more like a seasonal stream bed. It's so rough I can't imagine anything being able to traverse it, but an ATV is coming up. It sounds like it is stuck just down the road and I can hear several voices yelling and some trees falling as I keep going up the trail.

A mile later the trail crosses a talus field and the rocks continue for longer than I've experienced in weeks. My feet are starting to hurt so bad and I'm realizing that my shoes have bit the dust. I bought these when I started Massachusetts, so I probably have about 500 miles on these shoes, which is on the high end of life expectancy of shoes on the trail.  The good news is I have another pair in the truck, and when I see Dad the day after tomorrow I can switch out my shoes then. For now I pop some ibuprofen and keep walking. 

I cross a decent size stream and then another one named Vaughn just after. It's such a relief to not have to worry about water all the time. Just as the FarOut comments report, I see a nice campsite next to the stream with a small waterfall. This is where I'm stopping tonight and I'm relieved to get off my tired feet.

I set up camp and filter water to make my dinner. By the time I eat and finish my camp chores it is seven o'clock and I am spent. I have the realization while I write this I realize that I am at mile 2,097, which is exactly 100 miles to Katahdin!

Today's Stats: 14.2 miles, 2,454 feet gain

Trail Stats: 2,097 miles, 421K feet gain

Miles to Katahdin: 100

Appalachian Trail Day 179 - West Branch Piscataquis River Campsite to Monson Maine (Mile 2074 to Mile 2,083.8)

I am thankful for sleeping incredibly well last night again. I think part of the good sleep has to do with the fact I was so tired after a challenging day on the trail, and the other part is that I haven't had a day off in almost three weeks.  My body has no more energy to give, but I will be getting off the trail today to go home to attend a wedding and get some much needed rest and time with my family.

I start to pack but I decide that from here on out I'm going to have a nice relaxing morning and enjoy something hot in my hammock before I start packing. I heat up some water and indulge and some hot tea with lots of honey while listening to the woods start to wake up. Birds start chirping tentatively 15 minutes before daybreak,  but the chirps become more enthusiastic as the sun starts to climb over the ridge.

I'm sure there will be some roller coasters today, but the nice thing about this morning's hike is that it's the first time in a long time where I don't have a big climb right out of the gate. The trail is going to continue along the river until the next crossing in a couple miles.

Very shortly after leaving camp I come to the blue blaze side trail for the Horseshoe Canyon Lean-to and I walk up to the shelter to make an entry in the journal since I didn't sign any yesterday. I see Carrot Cake and Planet Caravan are ahead. They'll both most likely be entering the 100 Mile Wilderness today or tomorrow. Many hikers zero at Shaw's in Monson and take a break before the final push through the 100 Mile Wilderness and Katahdin.

Leaving the shelter the trail is unexpectedly easier than the day before.  There are certainly plenty of little rocks to walk around but it's not nearly the roller coaster it was yesterday. A little while later I stop at a stream and filter a little bit of water for my morning coffee breakfast shake before continuing on.

2.5 miles after leaving camp I come to the East Branch of the Piscataquis River. There is a beaver dam and that looks exceptionally tidy with all of the branches stacked neatly one the top of the dam. From the FarOut comments there is something of a challenge to try to get across the river by rock hopping and not get wet feet.  A little south of the dam I decide to accept the challenge and easily make it across, and at one point I have to pivot like a ballerina on one foot on a very small algae covered rock.

On the other side I turn to the right to follow a trail but it stops at a big yellow "no trespassing" sign; obviously I went the wrong direction, so I turn back just a short way and find the trail just on the other side of the water crossing going up a hill. The incline up the hill is quite easy, and at the top the trail turns into a lovely woodland path.

The next 4 miles are relatively easy and I'm cruising at almost 3 miles an hour for a time, which is something I haven't done in so long. I can take some long strides on the easy dirt path and the sun is shining, the birds are singing, and the chipmunks are doing their chipmunk thing; dropping small pointed pine cones from crazy heights, landing really close to the trail. If I don't get clunked in the head by a pine cone at some point during this trip I consider myself lucky.

I take a trail into Monson that travels on Pleasant Road and I am just enjoying the day but also wallowing in the misery of being in the woods for 3 weeks straight without a day off. I keep thinking about nachos. I don't know why, but I just want a huge plate of nachos in front of me with nasty fake cheese sauce and lots of taco meat and guacamole and extra sour cream. That's all I want.

A half mile from town a truck pulls up and asks if I want a ride. I don't even have to think twice; hell yes I want a ride! I pile into the back of the pickup truck and the driver is looking back at me, shouting questions about when did I start and how long I've been hiking. He looks in the rear view mirror a lot and I wish he would look at the road a little more. 

He deposits me in front of Shaw's hiker hostel, where I go in to check it out. I open the front door and see a woman busily folding laundry at a dining room table. The hostel is pretty empty, but I see a hiker at the table in the back. He recognizes me and calls my name in greeting,  but I am brain dead and can't remember his name for the life of me.

I wander in the backyard and I'm surprised By how big the hostel is. In addition to the main house, there is a bunkhouse, a separate laundry and shower building,  and another house dedicated to a store with a crazy amount of gear. This place is the northern equivalent af Neel's Gap in Georgia.

I see Weedin' It at a picnic table out back and we chat for a while. He tells me that he is surprised by how many people who he started with back in March and he never thought he would see again have shown up the last two days. He tells me that Tiki Bar is here, and I get a picture with him before I go to look for Tiki Bar, who I thought for sure would be in the Wilderness already, if not summiting. 

I wander through the main house, but don't see Tiki. He must be in one of the rooms with the door closed, and I can't find his contact info in my phone, so I guess I won't be able to say hi.

I head back downstairs just before Dad pulls up in his truck. I load up my pack in the truck and we go to the only lunch spot in Monson; the General Store, where I grab a sandwich and chips, before we go back to Bingham. 

We head home for a wedding taking place this weekend. I finished two days earlier than planned,  so I'm excited to see my family and friends and work on my garden for a few days before we make the 12 hour drive back to Monson after the wedding so I can continue to Katahdin!

Today's Stats: 9.8 miles, 1,900 feet gain 

Trail Stats: 2,083 miles, 419K feet gain

Miles to Katahdin: 114

Appalachian Trail Day 178 - Bald Mountain Brook Lean-to to West Branch Piscataquis River Campsite (Mile 2,061 to Mile 2,074)

I slept like a rock in my hammock last night. I only woke up a couple of times; a huge difference from the night before in the shelter. I get up at 5 and there's enough dim light under the dense tree canopy to pack without using a headlamp.

My last camp chore before shouldering my pack is to put on my cold wet clothes from yesterday and I'm on the trail at 6:30. 

Like so many other mornings leaving the shelter, the trail goes uphill for two miles to Moxie Bald Mountain.  This morning I welcome the incline because I know it will warm me up. It starts out steady and gradual for the first half mile before the slope increases, but it's still a short hike up. 

The trail is on the leeward side of the mountain and goes through an extremely thick spruce forest. The rocks become quite big and I walk by a moss covered rock wall. I can hear water gurgling from springs hidden underneath the rocks, full with yesterday's rain.

The trail goes under a really cool rock feature that's called a cave but it really looks more like a huge rock ledge balanced on another rock and resembles more of a mushroom. Just after the cave, the trees part in a rocky area for a really gorgeous view to the west.  I can see Moxie and Pleasant Ponds to the right, and The Bigelows and The Crockers to the left.

A short time later I arrive at the top of Moxie Bald Mountain, which is a very open expanse of rock ledges. The vegetation caught fire in the early 1900's, which is unfortunate, but the views are beautiful as a result.  

Going down the mountain on the west side I pause to check out the amazing view of the lake below and the mountains in relief to the north and east. I open PeakFinder to identify Barren Mountain, which is 40 miles away in the 100 Mile Wilderness. 

The descent down Is pretty easy and I stop at the Bald Mountain Pond Lean-to, near the edge of Bald Mountain Pond. Warm sunlight is dappling the shelter the area in front of the shelter so I take off my socks and shoes and lay them in the sunlight to dry a little while I rummage in the bear can for lunch of cheese and sausage with some dried pineapple. 

I relax for far too long at the shelter, but I enjoy sitting here and reading and doing nothing, feeling the warm sun on my white and soggy feet. I should get going so that I will have longer to chill in camp tonight. I set about repacking my bag and then hit the trail. 

Unfortunately the trail doesn't go close to the lake. The best views were at the lean-to, for sure. Today is turning out to be perfect with the sun shining with the mild temperature and the light breeze, making for a wonderful walk in the woods. 

About a mile after leaving the lean-to I cross a stream that comes off the pond. It looks like it could be a little hairy in higher water, but I rock hop over it without issue.

The next couple of miles the trail is very rocky and rough, even though it is relatively flat.  Many rocks are like stepping stones that would be amazing during periods of high water, but hopping across them for so long creates a deep ache in my bad hip, which is killing me by the time I cross a dirt logging road and the trail finally becomes a nice dirt path for a little while. 

The trail crosses the West Branch of the Piscataquis River where there are no stepping stones, so I will have to ford it. I don't have water shoes so I will go barefoot. I take off my shoes and socks and shoulder my pack and wade carefully into the cool water. It's not very far and the highest the water gets is to my knees.  I emerge on the other side a little more refreshed for the effort, and my feet are nice and clean.

After the river crossing I expect the trail to be a nice stroll along the river, however that's not the case. The trail leaves the river and goes up and then comes back down again to cross a stream and then goes up and down again and on and on. This is like a mini roller coaster! Instead of 500 foot climbs I'm only doing 75 feet at a time but it's tedious.

I'm really losing steam when I start to look for campsites. There really isn't anything along the water. The shelter is four miles from the river crossing but per the FarOut comments it looks like there are a couple of campsites before the shelter so I plan on stopping at the next available campsite.

A half mile before the shelter I see a woman relaxing in a hammock on the side of the trail right on the river. She said it was just too good to pass up, and I absolutely agree; it's a beautiful spot. But I'm muttering an epithet to myself under my breath, hoping I can find another spot so I don't have to go to the shelter. Just a tenth-mile later I come to the perfect clearing right next to some cascades and a huge pool of water. I drop my pack and claim the spot.

After setting up my camp and starting my dinner,  I walk down to the big pool of water with my water bladder and filter and soak my feet in the wonderfully cool water while I filter water. I needn't have worried about competition for campsites because I don't see another person for the rest of the day.

I eat dinner and tuck into bed just as the sun goes behind the hill on the other side of the river.

Today's Stats: 12.8 miles, 1,978 feet gain

Trail Stats:  2,074 miles, 417K feet gain 

Miles to Katahdin: 123

Appalachian Trail Day 177 - Pleasant Pond Lean-to to Bald Mountain Brook Lean-to (Mile 2,052 to 2,061)

As much as I appreciate sleeping inside the shelter on rainy nights, I really hate sleeping inside a shelter on the hard wood deck, even with a cushy wide sleeping pad. I tossed and turned as much as I was able, feeling like I woke a thousand times. My back is sore this morning but at least I stayed nice and dry. I actually slept until 5 A.M..

The gentleman who also stayed in the shelter is awake as well. We both pack but he is more motivated to get on the trail so he can get to the Sterling Inn to resupply and get across the Kennebec before the shuttle closes. I, however, am not in such a hurry, only having to hike ten miles to the next shelter. 

He is on the trail at 5:30 and I wish him a good hike. I finish packing and I'm on the trail as soon as I can hike without my headlamp,  at 6 A.M..

It's not raining currently, but the brush near the trail is dripping, as are the trees overhead.  I walk carefully, trying to avoid brushing against the small trees, wanting to stay as dry as possible to prevent getting cold from the wet. 

The trail starts straight up to Pleasant Pond Mountain,  gaining a paltry 1,100 feet over 1.5 miles. The effort warms me on the climb up. The trail is steep and rocky, but pretty tame, and I don't need to use my hands.

As I reach the summit the rain starts again, and I pull out my raincoat.  I brought an umbrella,  but it will only get caught in the twisted trees, so I forgo the protection it would offer.

The hike down is a little challenging,  as the rocks and roots are slick with water. I crawl at a snail's pace for the next two hours. The descent is 1,700 feet, but distributed over four miles, with only a couple steep spots. 

On the way down, I encounter a southbound section hiker who tells me how packed the next shelter was last night. He said it was really crowded and nine people were practically sleeping on top of one another. He seems a little traumatized by the experience, and I'm thankful that there were only the two of us in our shelter!

The trail comes out on a road next to Moxie Pond, which is a lovely spot with a small pier and ladder for swimming.  The rain stopped a little while ago and patches of sun appear on the ground. I consider stopping here and sitting on my ground sheet for snack break, but there are still some dark clouds rolling overhead, and I'm almost four miles to the next shelter,  so I press on.

Just past Moxie Pond,  the trail leaves the road to cross Baker Stream.  At periods of high water and after heavy rain, the stones across the stream are submerged and require a ford, but thanks to the low water level even with the rain, I am able to walk easily across the stream. 

My stomach is grumbling when I walk through a clearing for power lines. Unmindful of the potential for absorbing too many electrical emissions, I take off my pack and rummage through my bear can for anything I can eat that won't deplete my supply too much. I am ravenous and eat one full baggie of nuts (1,000 calories), two pieces of cheese, and a guacamole single, taking on the fat macros full force.  I spy loads of ripe blueberries nearby, and I eat handsful on the sweet fruit before shouldering my pack.

From here I make short work of the 2.5 miles to the next shelter, stepping across lots of muddy spots near a couple of bogs. 

No one is at the shelter when I arrive, which is not surprising. I feel like it's too early to stop because it's only 2 pm, so I look at my app to see if there are any campsites between here and the next shelter, which there are not because the only thing between the two shelters is a mountain, so I guess this is where I'm staying tonight!

I really don't care if it's going to rain again, but I am not sleeping in the shelter again tonight.  I will take my chances in my comfortable hammock. The good news is since I'm the only one here I have my pick of spots. The best campsite is between the shelter and the privy, but not close enough to the privy where I can smell it. 

I get set up and send a message home on my InReach, and I'm less than thrilled to hear that I am next to a forest road that is very popular with ATV enthusiasts. Considering it's the Labor Day weekend I have a feeling that this is going to continue until dark, but it's a small price to pay for having camp set up,  and a shelter where I can cook and eat and stretch out if it starts pouring again. 

The tin roof of the shelter is dry in this small amount of sunlight coming through the trees, and I change out of my wet clothes and I spread them on the edge of the roof to dry. My shoes are drenched so I put plastic shopping bags over my bare feet, not wanting to soak my only pair of dry socks that I need to sleep in tonight. 

I filter some water and I am starving again so I eat dinner early. I run down to the stream to grab a liter of water for the night, and when I return to the shelter I see a hiker with a scruffy beard sitting on the edge. I say hello and he says that he knows me, and I don't recognize him, but he says his name is Weedin' It. Of course! I met him for the first time at Upper Goose Pond in Massachusetts.  

I sit on the edge of the shelter and we talk for a while  The only one of his tramily left on trail is Mr. Shorty, who I last saw in the White Mountains. Weedin' It is going to Monson tomorrow to stay at the iconic Shaw's Hostel where he will zero the day after and wait for Mr. Shorty to catch up so they can hike the 100 Mile Wilderness together to summit Katahdin together. 

I'm enjoying the company but say goodnight,  even though there is plenty of daylight left. I'm tired and trail weary and just want to hang out in my hammock for a couple hours, where I don't need to use any mental energy. I read and play games on my phone until I'm ready to hit the hay at 7:30, when the ATV activity has ceased. This has been a wonderful couple of days for relaxing, since I know the next few weeks will be hectic.

Today's Stats: 9 miles, 1,949 feet gain

Trail Stats: 2,061 miles, 415K feet gain

Miles to Katahdin: 135