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Appalachian Trail Day 21 - Silers Bald Shelter to Newfound Gap - Clingman's Dome and the highest point of the AT!! (Mile 195.8 - Mile 208)

We wake early, with sunrise.  Two other hikers came in last night around bedtime, and one of them is also up. The weather is hazy and drizzly, with intermittent rain forecast throughout the day.  We pack quickly and stick together as we leave, a little hesitant to spread out after the confusion of the last two days. 

Today we will hike Clingman's Dome, a halfway point of the park, and Clingman's Dome is less than five miles away! At an elevation of 6,643 feet, the mountain is THE highest point along the entire Appalachian Trail, not to mention the highest point in Smoky Mountain National Park, AND the highest point in Tennessee!!   We have been able to view these mountains for most of the trip since we left NOC. After we crest this mountain, we only have a couple days' hiking to get through the park!  

We are soaking wet, our gear is soddened, and things are starting to smell from two days of damp.  One would imagine the rain washes away dirt, however the mud from the trail makes dirt stick to everything!  I always feel so gross once the rain starts, and the feeling doesn't go away until we can wash up and lay things out in the sun to dry out. However, the prospect of hitting a landmark achievement of the trail makes us light in our steps and a little giddy! This is an emotional and psychological milestone for most hikers, and definitely for me!  

I am finally feeling exhilarated instead of tired.  I feel good and my legs are starting to feel powerful instead of like lead weights.  My pack is riding easier on my back. We have been living between 4 and 5,000 feet for the last two weeks, and the miles are starting to go by easily instead of feeling like painful drudgery. Maybe it's the effects of shucking off the stress of the last two days, but maybe it's because I am finally having fun than pain out here because I don't feel like I'm fighting against the trail!

GG and I make our way northeast over fairly level ground towards Double Spring Gap Shelter, an easy 1.7 miles to start our day.  Along the way, we discuss our plan.  We will crest Clingman's today, and stay three miles north at Mt Collins shelter tonight, making today an easy 7 miles with 2100' climb!  Tomorrow, we need to meet Kelly to pick up our food at Newfound Gap, which is five miles from the shelter.  We can get our food and hang out with Kelly, then continue north.  

The sun is starting to poke out and the haze is burning off.  I would love to check the weather, as well as check in with family, but we've had hardly any cell service since leaving Mollie's Ridge two days ago.  I know we will have service at Newfound Gap, so I occasionally turn off airplane mode along the way.  No point in burning my phone battery searching for a signal. 

We take our off packs for a quick bathroom break and to shed some layers once we arrive at Double Spring Gap Shelter, and I'm pleased to see we have a signal!  I call Kelly to check in. She is pleased to hear from us and informs me that Gordon has already called her to arrange a meeting this afternoon.  Wait! What?!

"But I thought you were visiting a friend like five hours away?" I ask.

She said Gordon called to say he was going to get to the meeting spot today and he was running out of food, so he needed to meet her today.  She was on her way and should be at Newfound this afternoon.   I am panicking, because we are 11 miles away from Newfound Gap.  We are hiking faster, but 11 miles at this altitude will still take us a long time.  Additionally, we were psyched for a lower mileage day.  

I break the bad news to GG, and we resign ourselves to a faster hike.  This may be a shock to a lot of other hikers, but with climbs, rocky spots, and pit stops to water the leaves and snack breaks, we average around 1.5 miles per hour.  Granted, we tend to meander down the trail and enjoy the experience more than hustle.  If we really step up our pace, and take limited breaks, maybe we can make it around 2 pm.  Of course, that's if the rain holds off.  Thankfully, the clouds are starting to break up even more, and we get occasionally bursts of sunlight. 

We pick up our pace as we climb the next three miles toward Clingman's Dome.  The vistas are starting to open up and the day is really starting to warm.  We hike in and out of stands of Fraser firs to patches of wildflowers and grasses and catch a gorgeous panorama of layers of mountain ridges stretching to the south as far as we can see. 

As we near the top, we can hear the rumble of motorcycle and car engines long before the trail traverses the edge of the parking lot and a pedestrian walkway up to the lookout tower. I visited Clingman's before, so I knew what to expect. I prepared GG for the crowd of people we were most likely going to see at the top.  The lookout on top of Clingman's is a very popular tourist spot, with the busy vacation town of Gatlinburg, TN less than an hour away. The day was starting to turn into a beauty, with the sky now partly sunny, which means more tourists will be itching to get outside after the last two days of rain. Plus, it's a weekend, which adds to the impact. 

We round a bend and see the huge winding cement walkway and observation deck.   There are people everywhere!  We walk up the circular walkway towards the top.  Under the cover of the deck, people are shuffling around the circle, packed in cheek by jowl.  We are trying to get a couple of pictures of the vistas, as well as check out the signs which tell us the direction and names of distant peaks. 

I look up to see a lady wrinkling her nose and pointing at GG.  All of a sudden, I realize why.  We must smell awful!  We hiked four days from our last town, and five days since we last showered.  Our clothes have been worn since we left, and we have been sweating like crazy on all the uphill climbs. We are definitely nose blind to our odors, and to all of these very clean tourists we must REEK! We take a couple more pics and head down the ramp to keep the tourists from puking. 

At the bottom is a large patio with walls that are perfect to lounge on while we snack and look at the map and soak up the sunshine.  We meet another backpacker who just left town, and we chit chat for a while about trail life. Many tourists approach us and ask lots of questions about backpacking and living out of our pack. We always enjoy discussing trail life with other people.  When we finish eating, we shoulder our packs and head down the trail. 

The trail is literally "down," as we have to head downhill toward Newfound Gap. We still have 7.8 miles to the Gap, and while the trail is mostly down and not up, it's not an easy hike.  The woods are typical of a high elevation - lots of firs and pines, with moss covering the forest floor. The soil is thin, so we have to watch carefully for roots and rocks in our path. 

After three miles of trucking downhill (and up 570'), we come to a blue blazed side trail leading to the Mt. Collins shelter.  This is where we originally planned to stay tonight.  We drop our packs on the trail for a quick pit stop, think about how easy our day could have been, then continue down toward the gap.  The trail parallels the auto road most of the trip, and we can hear engines gunning on the road.  

We descend the 2700 feet and arrive to Newfound Gap mid-afternoon, greeted with a horde of cars, motorcycles, and people. The noise is deafening after being in the woods for days. We quickly spot the group of hikers spread about the grassy area of the parking lot, packs littering the ground.  Gordon is there, as is several other hikers enjoying a well-deserved break and some trail magic courtesy of Kelly.  She brought us Subway sandwiches, bags of chips, and soda!!  A sub has never tasted so good, IMHO. We take off our shoes and lounge in the camp chairs that Kelly brought. 

Unfortunately, our trail angel wasn't present. Gordon explains that she ran a hiker into town.  Apparently, the hiker tried to do a section hike starting in the park.  He picked one hell of a place to learn to backpack. He quickly decided to toss in the towel and go home, so needed a ride to nearby Gatlinburg.  

We share our trail stories with the other hikers. Today has been full of so many accomplishments. We have hiked almost 10% of the total Appalachian Trail.  We have made it to the top of the highest spot on the trail.  We are almost done with the Smokies, and the requirement of sleeping in the shelters. There is talk about upcoming shelters and hostels.  The next shelter is only 3 miles away, and most of the hikers are going there tonight. GG and I are really tired from the extra miles and energy today, but we are a day ahead as a result.  

I started to get the idea to go into town.  After all, Gatlinburg is fairly close.  If we go into town and get a hotel room, we could shower and wash our clothes.  The only problem is that it's Friday and the weather turned beautiful, and Gatlinburg is super crowded and expensive.  II mention it to GG and she is cool with it.  We decide if Kelly is okay with taking us and spending the night, we will do it.  If she doesn't want to come with us, we will take it as a sign and continue on the trail.  We have plenty of food now, so it's a lot of trouble and expense for a hot shower, clean clothes, and a nice comfy bed. But I want it so bad, that I offer to pay for the room for the three of us. 

Kelly returns and agrees to the idea!  Yay!! I book an overpriced room in a nice hotel that doesn't have laundry facilities, and we are off to town. We say goodbye to Gordon and try to stuff ourselves and our packs into Kelly's already overstuffed car. 

An hour later, we are checked into a nice king suite with a pull-out sofa and a nice view of the Little Pigeon River. GG and I quickly take showers and explode our packs all over the room.  Wet backpacking gear is covering the dining table, floor, and balcony.  We find a laundromat and have dinner at the Alamo Steakhouse while the clothes are washing.  We get back to the hotel around 10pm and go straight to bed. Good night!

Today's stats: 12 miles; 2720' elevation gain

Trip stats: 139 miles; 35k elevation gain

Trail stats: 208 miles, 52k elevation gain









Appalachian Trail Day 20 - Spence Field Shelter to Silers Bald Shelter - GG Found! (Mile 184-Mile 195.8)

I wake with first light.  I slept surprisingly well in spite of the fact that we had so many snoring hikers packed in like sardines in the shelter.  I jump out of my bed, urgent with the need to head up the trail to find GG.  Many hikers are already up and packing quietly, trying not to disturb those still sleeping. Because of the bad weather last night, we had nothing to do but go to sleep.  At least we are all well rested. 

Gordon is already packing.  I quickly stuff my sleeping gear into my pack, pull out my morning coffee protein shake and a couple of bars for snacks, and I'm waving goodbye to the shelter about 20 minutes later.  

The bad weather from the night before has moved out, but the trail is thick with fog and everything is wet.  The path up to Rocky Top lives up to its name and is quite rocky.  Small sluices of water flow down the trail and eddy at the base of larger rocks.  I take care when stepping up on rocks, testing them to make sure they won't dislodge.  My shoes are still wet from the day before.  Every step creates a squelching sound, and my feet are prunes within an hour of leaving the shelter.  There is supposed to be a fantastic view, but I can barely see twenty feet in front of me. 

Fortunately, the fog clears mid-morning, and the day promises to be pleasant for hiking.  The elevation profile is relatively flat compared to most other days. I can't really enjoy the trail too much because I am worried about GG. I wonder if she kept hiking to the next shelter in that crazy weather.  I have foolishly hiked through thunderstorms before.  The last place you want to be in lightening is on the exposed top of a mountain ridge.  

After four miles and 2000 feet of elevation gain, I encounter a trio of backpackers headed toward me.  Two men and a woman.  They are talking and laughing together, obviously enjoying the trail. 

"Are you GG's friend from Maryland?" she asks when they draw near.  

"I am! Have you seen her?"  I respond.  

"Yes, she is okay and stayed at the next shelter last night.  She said she would walk to the shelter after and wait for you there."

I am so relieved to know she is safe!  I feel like a huge weight is lifted. This encounter is aptly called the "trail telegraph," where people send messages up and down the trail.  I thank the group and continue north.  I am really enjoying the scenery.  This will be my first full day in the park without rain and I want to soak in everything the Smokies have to offer. Birds are chirping, the trout lilies are emerging, spring beauties are starting to flower.  Spring is definitely springing!

Shortly after leaving the hikers, I see a woman dressed in the uniform of a backwoods ranger. As we approach, she asks if I am hiking with a woman named GG.  I answer that I am, and I am happy she is safe.  I ask her if she is a ranger, and she responds that she is a ridge runner.  Ridge runners are employed by parks and the ATC (Appalachian Trail Conservancy) to maintain sections of the trail, as well as educate hikers and check permits. 

I am thrilled to talk to a real-life ridge runner!  We talked about the storm "that sure was something last night, wasn't it?".  I ask about bear encounters and safety, she replies that all food needs to be hung, even in bear canisters, as the bears have gotten smart and try to take off with the canisters.  We chit chat for about 20 minutes before we say our goodbyes. 

Soon after I arrive at Derrick Knob Shelter, which is empty.  I take a snack break at the shelter and flip through the logbook.  I am relieved to see GG's entry from this morning, which stated she was safe and heading to the next shelter as reported.  I also see Gordon's entry, which stated he was checking in and moving on.  

The rest of the day is an absolutely lovely hike.  The trail isn't flat, but the elevation is gentle, with 1800' of gain spread over six miles. Birds are chirping their songs and the leaves on the trees are just emerging.  Little white blooms from cut-leaf toothwort are scattered on the forest floor, interspersed with the delicate blades and pink flowers of spring beauties.

I reach Silers Bald Shelter (not to be confused with Siler Bald Shelter at mile 113) around 4 pm, which is great timing as the day is waning and the air is decidedly chillier.  We are at 5,500' elevation, after all. The trail approaches from behind, so I can't see if GG is inside. I round the corner of the shelter to see her inside! She is chatting with another hiker and is in good spirits, well rested from a short 6-mile day. 

GG explains that in the driving rain she had her head down and completely missed seeing neither the chest-high sign nor the well-worn trail that headed to the right off the trail TWICE!  Yes, there were TWO well-marked trails that went off-trail the shelter. "What about how long it was taking you?" I asked. "Didn't you look at the map once you realized you should have been there within a couple hours of leaving Mollie's Ridge?"  

She explained it never occurred to her.  

"What about when you went up that mountain?" I enquired.  I mean, it's kind of hard to miss climbing a mountain.

She responded that she had no idea something was wrong until she got to the next shelter. 

We catch up while we make dinner. She saw Gordon earlier and apparently, they exchanged some terse words. He went ahead to the next shelter.  He will have to wait for us at some point, as it is Friday and Kelly isn't supposed to meet us with our food until Sunday.  I don't know if he is planning on a really short day tomorrow, but oh well, not my problem! 

We go to bed at hiker midnight, which is whenever the sun sets, and it gets dark.  Good night!

Today's Stats: 12 miles, 3800' elevation gain

Section Stats:  132 miles, 34k' elevation gain

Trail Stats:  196 miles, 48.7k' elevation gain


Appalachian Trail Day 19- Mollie's Ridge Shelter to Spence Field Shelter - WE LOST G.G.! (Mile 178 -Mile 184)

As dawn breaks, I wake to the pitter pat of rain on the roof of the shelter.  I am expecting an all-day rain event, and Mother Nature is delivering. The bear stayed out of the shelter, and no further sightings are reported. Several people are packing, ready to head out in the rain to a shelter 12 miles up the trail. The weather report is up to three inches of rain to start this afternoon and continue overnight!  Four people who stayed here last night have decided to zero here today, riding out the foul weather and continuing on tomorrow.   A "zero" is literally zero miles.

GG, Gordon, and I mull over zeroing here today as well.  The idea seemed good to me yesterday.  Today, however, the idea of staying in this goldfish bowl for almost 36 hours is less than ideal.  We have nothing to do except for what is downloaded on our phones. I have a power pack, but a day of using my phone will run it dry and I won't have it for later in this section.  Plus, my short attention span and inability to sit in one place for more than a minute will be excruciating. 

Moreover, if we zero today, we will have to hike extra miles over the next two days to meet Kelly on Sunday (in three days) at Newfound Gap.  Mollie's Ridge to Newfound is 31 miles with over 8,000 feet elevation gain.  I really hate gaining more than 3,000 feet in a day.  It's torture on my body and spirit.  Too much work takes the fun out of being one with nature.  

I don't care how many miles we get in today.  I just want forward progress of SOME kind, and to be tucked in before the rain gets bad.  There are a lot of people on the trail out here, and the space will be tight in the shelters.  The next shelter up the trail is Russell Field.  It's only four miles away, which will only take 2 hours tops to get to. Unfortunately, it's closed due to bear activity.  Recently, someone dropped off their backpack inside the shelter while filtering water nearby (which everyone on the trail does with some regularity, including me). The bear took the whole pack from inside the shelter!  

The next shelter after Russell Field is Spence Field.  I'm not sure why they are called "Field," as they are in the middle of the woods.  At mile 184, Spence Field is only 2 miles past Russell Field.  We can meander and lollygag to our hearts content and still get there well before the bad weather.  Six miles and 1500 feet of elevation is almost like a zero day!  

GG and Gordon pack while I have been looking over the map.  We have whiled away at least two hours trying to decide what to do today.  We agree to meet at Spence Field.  Even if we stop for a meal, we should be there by 1 pm at the latest. The rain is light and steady.  Hopefully we get a little break today at some point.  Gordon is off first. GG departs close behind Gordon.  I leave about 15 minutes after GG. 

The rain is steady and at times fairly heavy, but the temps are around 60, so not too cold.  This is the kind of weather you just put your head down and walk.  With a cap keeping the rain from running into my eyes, and the rain jacket hood up to keep water from running down my back, I stare at the ground within ten feet of my feet, which is becoming decidedly more waterlogged.  I listen to an audiobook via my headphones because my phone is wrapped in a ziploc bag inside my pack.  I walk slowly to stretch out time.  

Russell Field shelter is literally on the trail, ten feet to the west.  Bears be damned, I decide a quick stop out of the rain is in order.  A sign announces the shelter is closed. Hopefully the bears can read!  I don't tarry long - just enough to enjoy a Larabar under the roof.  

After another hour and a half, around one p.m., I see a sign pointing to the right announcing the turn to Spence Field Shelter in 0.2 miles. I veer off the AT, which at this point is resembling a small stream.  I arrive at the shelter which has a nice, roomy covered area in front of the 2-story sleeping platforms.  I see Gordon unloading his pack, staking out a spot on the bottom level.  A couple is setting up their sleeping gear at the end, and another hiker is spread out sideways on the top level, taking an afternoon nap.  

Getting ready to tuck in for the night takes about an hour.  The water comes from a spring a tenth of a mile down the hill.  A privy lay in a different direction from the shelter.  I decide to filter water and eat lunch before I set up my sleeping area.   While filtering water, I expect to run into GG.  She must be hanging her food bag or visiting the outhouse. 

 The rain is coming down in earnest as I return to the shelter and start to set up my sleeping area, which means inflating my sleeping pad and covering it with my down top quilt.  I am hit with the sudden realization that GG isn't there. I have been so focused on my tasks, it didn't register that I haven't seen her.  I ask Gordon if he has seen GG.  

"No," he responds.  "I thought she was behind you."  I feel a sinking in my chest. 

"No Gordon, she left the shelter this morning before me.  I just realized she wasn't here."

I start to panic.  Where could she be?!  There were no cross trails other than the blue-blazed water source at Russell Field Shelter, so she couldn't have taken a wrong turn.  I guess she must have missed the turn to Spence Field and must have continued on the trail.  What should I do?  We have absolutely NO cell service here.  We both have a Delorme InReach satellite communication device, but she doesn't know how to use it to share her location with me. 

More people are coming in, almost all are hiking south. They are reporting worsening conditions north of the shelter.  The rain is now in sheets, with limited visibility. The famous Rocky Top Mountain is the next hill to climb on our trek north from the shelter.  I ask everyone who arrives if they have seen a short lady with long braids heading north.  Thankfully, they all answer in the affirmative.  

"Sure, I saw her a mile north of here."  says the first couple. 

That means she is two miles away, at least.  Do I pack up and try to go after her?  Rocky Top has to be nuts in this storm right now.  Do I risk my safety to try to catch up?  Does she know that she passed the shelter?  Maybe she didn't want to stop, and she felt like hiking more today.  Will she recognize the potential danger of hiking a ridge in a storm?  Will she hunker down in her tent until the danger passes?

I am stressing out like crazy!  My heart tells me to pack up and continue hiking, but my head tells me to stay put.  I eat with no enthusiasm, worrying about my friend potentially lost in the Smokies.  

More people arrive and report seeing her farther north.  It's getting dark and she has to be close to the next shelter by now.  I keep checking my phone in case I get a signal.  Gordon asks if we should call 911.  I reply that this isn't an EMERGENCY, as someone missing the turn isn't a reason to call 911.  After some mulling over, I come up with a plan.  I will get up and get on the trail quickly tomorrow.  If we arrive at the next shelter and she isn't there and hasn't signed into the shelter register, I will then alert the authorities (side note: each shelter has a notebook and pen in a box or ziploc bag where visitors can sign in.  Often, hikers draw pictures or write a bawdy poem.  The shelter logs allow hikers to see how far they are from other people they may know.)

The shelter is getting very crowded with smelly hikers trying to get out of the rain.  We are packed in the two levels, and with every new hiker rounding the corner we slide closer to our neighbor.  There are a couple people who still have their belonging spread beside them.  More hikers show up and decide to set up camp beside the shelter.  Four men show up with packs twice the size of ours.  They are weekend hiking the Smokies and they have reservations. This means they get first dibs on sleeping in the shelter and can kick out the non-reservation campers.  They announce that if we don't make space, someone will be kicked out.  The space hogs relent and move over.  We now have about 18 bodies packed in like sardines in a shelter meant for 12-14. 

I go to sleep, restless with the anxiety that my friend may be out there all alone!

Today's Stats:  6 miles, 1457' elevation gain

Section Stats: 120 Miles; 30k' elevation gain

Total Stats:  184 Miles, 45k' elevation gain


Appalachian Trail Day Day 18 - Fontana Dam to Mollies Ridge Shelter - Smokies and the Bear! (mile 164.3 to mile 177.7)

 Our stay at the Fontana Lodge is heavenly but way too short.  Last night we returned to the hotel around 10pm. I packed and enjoyed a glass of wine, charged my electronics, cleaned up my email, then to bed around 1 am.  

I am slumbering in my cozy bed when Kelly and Penny alternate knocking on my door each hour starting at 7am. By the third time, at 9am, I give up on sleeping any further. I half-heartedly shove my few belongings into my pack.  Kelly drives Penny, Gordon, and me back to the trail and we say our goodbyes, but we know we will see her again very soon. At least we hope so, not only because we enjoy her company, but Kelly also has half of our food for the Smokies! 

Being the angel she is, Kelly has really gone over and above our new-found friendship, offering to meet us with half our food for the Smokies at Newfound Gap in Smoky Mountain National Park (SMNP).  Instead of carrying six to seven days of food, we only need to carry three. This will save each of us at least five pounds. This may not seem like a lot to most people, but to most backpackers this is huge!  These five pounds is an extra 25% of my overall pack weight. 

Speaking of pack weight, Penny and I jettisoned every single thing we won't need for the next 70 miles. We have 20,000 feet to climb up (and down)! I think my pack is now about 20 pounds with my food. We need more calories to feel satiated, but I must be more judicious with my food choices. I pack the most calorie dense foods I have. Nut butters and cheese are my favorites, since they are pretty much all fat. 

Kelly hopes to not only meet us at Newfound Gap but plans to join us on the other side of Smoky Mountain NP and hike with us for an additional week to Hot Springs, NC so she can make more of a dent in her AT miles. We will reunite with our extra gear when we meet after the Smokies.   

Saying "goodbye" to Kelly for a while

Entering the Smokies is exciting, but it has me more than a little edgy for several reasons. First, the obvious thing is the bears.  SMNP is one of the largest areas where black bears are protected and can freely roam.  While bear encounters are rare, they still happen. To mitigate encounters with the cute beasties, we have to hang our food away from the shelters and cook away from where we sleep.  Anything that can smell yummy to bears, including lip balm, toothpaste, and deodorant (BTW which I don't carry in order to save weight) should be hung in the food bags.  When hikers are careless with their food, bears will associate hikers with food, and subsequently sometimes hikers as food! 

Thankfully, most deadly encounters don't occur in camp. However, most happen when a hiker inadvertently steps between a mommy bear and her cubs.  This time of year, we must be extra vigilant, because this is when baby bears start to be more exploratory.  When hiking alone, I play my audiobooks without my earbuds so the bears will hear me before I see them!

The second reason I am ambivalent about camping in the park is that through-hikers must sleep in shelters unless shelter space is unavailable.  SMNP has a permit and reservation system. A through-hiker is anyone who originates their hike away from the park and plans to hike the whole park within a week. Backpackers who are doing a trip within the park must have a reservation. Someone who has a reservation for a specific shelter can kick out the ones with permits.  Until this trip I have never slept in a shelter - I was actually scared to do it, with the thought of sleeping with mice and the potential axe murderer.  I have conquered my fear and found shelters to be rather enjoyable, especially in a down pour. However, now I am scared I may have to sleep outside WITH THE BEARS! The uncertainty is gut-clenching for Penny and me!

Lastly, this is going to be some of the toughest hiking of our entire trip. We have some 4,000-foot days, with unpredictable weather, coupled with hiking on the highest point of the entire Appalachian Trail, at Clingman's Dome. I've been caught out on ridge lines in thunderstorms, and it's positively terrifying. You really don't want to be on top of mountains in severe lightening and rain. 

Fontana Dam Marina

The first few miles are scenic and uneventful. We pass by the Fontana Lodge - an amazingly nice place!  The Lodge is not a lodge in the traditional sense, but a spacious, newer shelter with a beautiful view of the lake and electronic charging stations!  It is funded by the Tennessee Valley Authority, which operates the nearby hydro-electric dam. 

The Fontana Lodge


We cross the dam. The visitor station is closed, but there are a few people walking around. The Trail crosses the dam, and the lake and surrounding hills are beautiful in the humid morning.  Around a bend and up a hill we find a registration box where through-hikers must deposit a copy of our permits and sign a register. We are finally in Smoky Mountain National Park!




The excitement is soon overshadowed by the daunting climb. Temperatures rise and the sun is at our backs as we ascend the 3000' to the ridge line. Fortunately, all this hiking is paying off and I only have to stop a couple times to catch my breath. 





Near the top, I see a couple sitting near a well-flowing stream. They are singing sweetly, apparently singing their prayers before enjoying their lunch. I approach cautiously, not wanting to interrupt their benediction. We introduce ourselves and chit chat about the hike and the trail. They are a newly married Amish couple who is celebrating their marriage with a backpacking trip.  This is so romantic and sweet!  Penny and Gordon catch up and we refill our water bladders.  It's only noon and I already downed three liters of water. I relax for 15 minutes while Penny heads up the trail, with Gordon shortly behind. 

Cresting the first rise, I catch some magnificent views to the west.  This is one of the few times the trail heads due north. For most of the park the trail heads to the northeast. The trail is dotted with spring flowers and the occasional invasive Black Locust tree, which perfumes the air with a lovely gardenia-like scent.

I catch up to Gordon at the turn off for the Shuckstack Fire Tower.  Penny, in her usual fashion, has motored up the trail, while I start my routine afternoon lollygagging. Gordon chooses to skip the fire tower, while I decide to check it out. After all, it's only one-tenth of a mile, according to the Far Out app. I dropped my pack and started what I thought was a quick trip. 

The app lied, but it was a stunning sight, nonetheless. The view was good, too. The old fire tower is perched on the edge of the ridge, looking to the southeast. While many people climb to the top of the five-story structure, I made it to the second level before I chickened out. One side of the railing was missing, and the treads were narrow and the steps very high. The view between the slats made me cling to the remaining railing like I was in the movie Cliffhanger.  After a few rapid photos, I descended backwards down the rickety stairs. 









Continuing on, I decided to resupply my water (again!) at Birch Spring Campsite, where Penny was finishing filling up her bag. This is a lovely place in a wooded, fern-filled glade. There was the biggest Chicken of the Woods Mushroom (Laetiporus sulfurous) I ever saw growing on the side of a massive dead and down tree. We talked about camping here, but with the bears and the forecast of three inches of rain tonight, we decided to keep going the next five miles to the next shelter.  Penny went on ahead while I had my third lunch. 


Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms

A Snail on a Fresh Big Pile of Bear Poop

The sun is getting low when I make it to the shelter. Mike, Penny, Gordon, and the Amish couple are already present and established their sleeping places in the shelter. Apparently, a resident bear made an appearance this afternoon, but there was no sight of the bear now. The wind is whipping the trees on the ridge, and the temperatures are falling fast.  Several hikers reported a bunch of wild pigs in the trail a mile back. Thankfully I didn't encounter the pigs, which can be very aggressive. 

I leisurely filter water and was eating dinner when someone said, "he's back!" The biggest black bear I have ever seen moseyed into the area in front of the shelter and rapidly climbed the tree that secured the food cables. The bear is totally nonplussed by us.  It sits in a crook of the tree about 30 feet up the trunk for at least an hour. I rather feel like a goldfish in a fishbowl being watched by a cat. I still have to hang my food bag!  It isn't an option to not hang it because bears in this area have been known to come into the shelters in search of food. 




Mike and Gordon agree to accompany me to the food cables - they will look out for the bear while I hang my food.  In the dark, with the light of our headlamps, I hang my food bag while the guys stand on either side of me to look for the bear. The few minutes feel like forever, but we hoist the bag and run to the shelter without incident. 

Tonight, the forecast is for heavy rain and high winds. The rain starts in earnest, and we fall asleep with the patter of heavy raindrops on the metal shelter roof. 

Today's stats:  13.3 miles, 4520' elevation gain. 




























Appalachian Trail Day 17 - Brown Fork Gap Shelter to Fontana Dam - Mud, Downed Trees, and Beer! (mile 152.9 to mile 164.3)

We awoke rested from 18 hours in the shelter. Everything is damp and smells awful!  The only dry clothes are the ones we slept in last night.  Today promises to be hot and muggy so I dress in my wet t-shirt and socks, but at least I have dry boxers on!  Most of my hiking clothes are quick-drying lightweight wool.  

The rain has stopped, but the leaves above the trail are laden with water. Every time the wind blows we get showered!  

Shortly down the trail, Just Gordon and I encounter a large tree downed by the storm.  I take off my pack and throw it over the deadfall. The trail is extremely narrow where rain washed out big holes on the downhill side. We start clearing the remaining small ledge of trail for the hikers coming up behind us.  Just Gordon elects to keep his pack on. While he is trying to lever a huge branch to the side, he literally somersaults down the hill!  I am saying "Stop, Gordon, stop!" Like he can hear me!! Thankfully the tree arrests his descent before he goes any further. 


Appalachian Trail Brown Fork Shelter to Fontana
Just Gordon wrestled with the tree


Six miles later we arrive at Cable Gap Shelter.  Smiles and some other hikers stayed here last night. While there is no hole in the floor, the shelter leaked all over them in the storm last night. Maybe we lucked out with the gross shelter after all!

Appalachian Trail Brown Fork Shelter to Fontana
Cable Gap Shelter

We have 5 miles until Fontana Dam, and a decent uphill.  If we hurry, we can be checked in and doing laundry and shower by 4 pm! 


Appalachian Trail Brown Fork Shelter to Fontana

Appalachian Trail Brown Fork Shelter to Fontana

Appalachian Trail Brown Fork Shelter to Fontana

We have hiked for 8 days straight without one full day off.  The lack of rest is really wearing on us. On the other hand, our bodies are adapting to the trail. Now, a couple of thousand feet is not a big deal - we are hiking faster without as many rest stops.  We arrive at Fontana Dam and Gordon called for a shuttle. We are wet and stinky!  The Fontana Lodge van arrives and the driver is a friendly former thru hiker. We check in and explode our packs all over the rooms. I elected to have my own room and Penny and Kelly are next door. 



 

The afternoon is anything but restful. The laundry facility is a half mile down the hill. We grab a light lunch, then shower and finish laundry. We meet up with other hikers. Mike, Bill, and Croft are going to zero here tomorrow. They are exhausted from the rain yesterday. Mike's tent collapsed in the storm and his sleeping bag and clothes got drenched.  Bill picked up a stomach bug at the NOC and needs to recover. Croft said all her stuff was soaked and she is worn out.  

Heavy rain is forecast for tomorrow night and all of the following day, so they decide to hunker down here for a couple days. I am super envious, but don't want to spend time in town when we still have so many miles to hike.  We have hiked almost 100 miles so far this section, but still have another 100 miles to get back to the car.

We finish dinner at 8:30 pm, but still need to go to the grocery store and pick up our resupply boxes from Hike Inn Hostel. They were booked for the rest of the week. Picking up our resupply boxes is  proving to be a challenge, since we didn't stay at the hostels as we originally planned. The hostel is 30 minutes away. Fortunately Kelly has her car here. She is finishing her section and already hiked the Smokies, so we will say goodbye in the morning :-(

Appalachian Trail Brown Fork Shelter to Fontana

Todays Stats:

Highest Elevation Today:

Section Stats:

Trail Stats: 

Appalachian Trail Day 16 - Sassafras Gap Shelter to Brown Fork Gap Shelter - Stuck in a Wood Box (mile 143.8 to mile 152.9)

 The biggest concern about shelter sleeping is the mice. The reports of nocturnal activity of mice walking over one's face and the occasional mouse in a sleeping bag is enough for many hikers to prefer camping outside the shelter.  Unfortunately, tenting isn't a guarantee some gear won't get messed with: a few years ago I was at a shelter in Shenandoah when a mouse chewed through a tent in the middle of the night. The intruder ended up squashed by a boot in the tent.  Chipmunks crawled into my backpack in Vermont, and in West Virginia a mouse chewed through an outer pocket of my backpack one night and on another occasion chewed through my food bag and left droppings in my oatmeal. 

Last night was a first for us!  GG and I accomplished the monumental endeavor of sleeping in an actual shelter ALL NIGHT!  To be honest, I didn't have the best night of sleep, being wakened by snores (even with my super duper purple earplugs), 10 hikers getting up to use the facilities in the middle of the night, and the occasional escape of wind from the esophagus or the other end... But no mice!! And we are relatively dry.  Even in the shelter everything is damp from the humidity.

We woke in the pouring rain, walked in the woods in the rain, walked up Cheoah Bald in the rain, and arrived at the next shelter around 2pm during a deluge. The highlight of my day is trail magic left by an angel: a big bag of huge apples left at Stecoah Gap.  We each take one, even though I could have eaten all of them. To the church who left this here, we really appreciated this!  Thank you so much :-)

I did not take any pictures during the hike today because I didn't want my phone to drown.

Brown Fork Gap Shelter is the smallest shelter we see on the trail. Most of the other shelters fit 6 or 12 people. This shelter is advertised as six, yet most of the space is taken up by our sleeping pads - a huge gap in the floor with plywood "gangplanks" that can be retracted to keep four legged visitors out of the shelter removes a lot of usable space.  A comment on the "Far Out" app we all use states the design is to prevent porcupines from coming in and destroying the wood structure.  The odor wafting from the gap is evidence that past hikers have used the space for a latrine. 


Brown Fork Gap Shelter, Appalachian Trail
A crowded and soggy bunch

We don't have enough room for 6 of us and all our stuff on the floor, so we get very creative at hanging our packs on the mouse hangers with all our gear hanging off every nook and cranny of the packs. We are drenched and cold. Shivering, we change into our night clothes and snuggle into our down quilts to warm up.  It's 3 pm and going to be a long afternoon! I'm not a day sleeper and read a Stephen King book on my phone and the sound of light snoring combined with the loud plinking of rain on the tin roof is calming. 

Brown Fork Gap Shelter, Appalachian Trail
Croft in her tent outside the shelter

Todays stats: 9 miles, 2313' elevation gain

Highest elevation:  Cheoah Bald at 5052'

Section Stats: 83 miles, 20,056' elevation gain

Trail Stats: 152.9 miles, 36,755' elevation gain

Appalachian Trail Day 15 - NOC to Sassafras Gap Shelter - Uphill to a Thunderstorm to (mile 136.7 to mile 143.8)

To say we lucked out with the weather the last 8 days is the understatement of the century. We hit the weather jackpot so far.  Unfortunately, our luck is running out today. Heavy rain is forecast for tonight and all day tomorrow, possibly through tomorrow night as well. Guess we gotta make hay while the sun shines!  

We leave the NOC. I am reluctant and dragging, the norm for me in the morning.  Penny and Karma are up and packing well before me, but I have less stuff and pack faster in general, so we are ready about the same time. We skip a real breakfast in the restaurant in order to hit the trail earlier, however hit our last toilet for the next couple days. 

Our hike today is 4000' up to Cheoah Bald.  This is one of those annoying sections that jaunt due west, adding miles to the overall AT but no real progress north. There is a shelter just short of the the top of the mountain,in 7 miles, at Sassafras Gap.  

NOC to Sassafras Gap
Looking Down on NOC

We hike up for what seems like forever. Humpty Dumpty hikes with us for a while. He is in his 70's and passes us on the uphill.  I blame it on my full stomach, not my lack of physical prowess :-) We leapfrog down the trail, discussing the coming thunderstorms.  Karma, GG, and I pause for a snack after 5 miles.  A couple with large packs stop to chat with us -  they are finishing a section hike at Fontana Gap and he is positively melting in the afternoon sunshine.  A young woman crests the hill shortly after and introduces herself as Croft. She is a mom of three, with an absolute angel of a husband who is at home with the kids.  

We get to Sassafras Gap Shelter, a very short down from the ridge. Just Gordon is here, as is Humpty Dumpty, Green, and Smiles!  Croft arrives shortly after. We take off our packs to snack and discuss the plan. The next shelter is another 9 miles after Sassafras Gap. Today is hot, but tomorrow will be a slog in pouring rain. I vote to continue the nine miles and get to the next shelter late, rather than hike in a downpour on the ridge. 

Then we hear the rumble of thunder and the rain falls. I am outvoted and this is our home for the night. At least this is a nice 12 person shelter with a nearby privy and a piped spring very close to the shelter.  The rain is sporadic until dusk, then Mother Nature opens the floodgates.  A lot of hikers were already asleep in the shelter, so I went to the stinky privy to talk on the phone with my better half. 

Sassafras Gap Shelter

Todays Stats: 7 miles, 3200' elevation gain

Section Stats: 74 miles, 17k' elevation gain

Trail Stats: 142 miles, 33k elevation gain